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New Gallien Kreuger MB 210 & MB 115 PART 2:

I really like those EQ setting for me but I have a feeling I'm going to have to eek that Lo-mid a little bit closer to 12 or even 1 to cut through the mix well in a full band setting.
Yes, when playing with a band, sometimes the frequencies that you dial out can sound like there's a hole there. That CAN be a good thing if it meshes with the frequencies your bandmates are using. That low-mid control effects the 'main body' of your sound (stolen from Bob Gallien)....dialing that down too much leaves you with...not much.
 
Yes, when playing with a band, sometimes the frequencies that you dial out can sound like there's a hole there. That CAN be a good thing if it meshes with the frequencies your bandmates are using. That low-mid control effects the 'main body' of your sound (stolen from Bob Gallien)....dialing that down too much leaves you with...not much.

Totally true! That lo-mid is key! Truth is, for a solid slap tone, the frequency I like to scoop is usually 400-500hz which is right in between the lo and hi mids on the MB210.

A couple of things: 1) I definitely have my lo-mid the opposite of scooped now. It's at 1 or 2 o'clock and adds some legit punch to my sound.
2) I've been playing around with the hi-mid and I think I like it at around 1 o'clock as well

here's my question. By raising the lo and hi mids, am I essentially scooping the frequencies in between them? So, the lo-mid controls 250 hz, hi-mid controls 1k hz. To scoop at around 400-500 hz like I like it, I just boost the two mids a bit.

Essentially I'm finding that if I want some more low end from my amp, I need to crank the lo-mid, not the bass knob and likewise, if I need more high-end, then crank the hi-mid up, not the treble.

So my bass stays permanently at 10/11 o'clock and treble permanently at 1 o'clock.

Lo-mid ranges between 1 o'clock and 2:30
Hi-mid ranges between 12 o'clock and 1 o'clock
Bass ranges between 10 and 11 o'clock
Treble at 1 o'clock


Definitely would have to agree that the Lo-Mid is the life-force of that amp. Just putting that out there for anybody else struggling to dial in a good tone.

I'm sure you're all getting tired of my postings... just trying to help.
 
Ah, that explains it! Definitely try plugging into 'passive' and backing down the gain and boost...I think you'll like it. I plug my active Lakland 55-94 into the passive input and it works great! (active input = 'suck' for me)...

Tried this yesterday. My bass definitely comes out a lot hotter through the passive jack (obviously).

This won't mess up my amp or speakers will it?

Seems silly that they would have the two jacks if you can just plug your active bass into the passive input and just dial down the master volume and gain accordingly.

I didn't really notice the sound being any better, it just required less gain, boost, and master volume to be loud.

I didn't play around with it all that much.

I know the signal out of my active EBMM SUB is not that much hotter than the average passive pup bass. On my Hartke combo, for example, which only has 1 input jack, if my passive bass required the volume knob to be at 3 o'clock, the active bass would need it at 12 o'clock for the same volume. Definitely not a 15db difference which is I think what the standard difference is between the passive and active input jacks on most amps.

I'm petrified of blowing a speaker or something by plugging into the passive input and cranking up the volume. (but if I have the limiter ON, will it help to prevent that? does the limiter just prevent the amp itself from distorting or also help prevent speakers from blowing?)

Tomorrow I play with my really really really really loud band in the studio where the guitar player can plug into a 4x10 monstrous stack (which caused me to blow the speakers in my other cab trying to keep up) so that'll be a great test.

I gather this little bad boy can handle quite a lot tho.
 
Should show up in stores mid to late June.
Bob

...boooooooo! (i mean that in the best way possible... it's only cuz i love your gear RAG! or should I say, Mr. Gallien?)

I sure hope this is one of those "better late than never situations"

I guess it works out anyway as this will give me some time to start saving up to get either the 210MBE or 410MBE when it comes out.

Are you able to offer any input on the ability of the MB210 to power the 410MBE? There have been some posts indicating that the amp in the MB210 may not really be powerful enough to power a 410 and that the sound would be uneven since less watts would be going to each speaker in a 410 than in the 210. Several people have downright said not to pair the MB210 with a 410 cab. But that's exactly what I'd like to do. Is the 410MBE also designed to go with the MB210?
 
Hi RAG, love new GK combos.

I've got one question.

What is the deal with DI output location? It's almost impossible to unplug the mic cable without using some sort of long and sharp object. It really bothers me every time I use DI.

Care to explain?

Thanks!
 
Hi RAG, love new GK combos.

I've got one question.

What is the deal with DI output location? It's almost impossible to unplug the mic cable without using some sort of long and sharp object. It really bothers me every time I use DI.

Care to explain?

Thanks!

I'm sure it was just an oversight... it's not the end of the world.

I doubt chastising Bob is going to get us any answers.
 
I'm sure you're right. If you use my 'helpful hint' (use tip of guitar cord) you'll always have the right tool available and it won't be a problem.

OR if you have a direct box, just use that. You can pick up the rolls db25 for like 25 bucks. Or just keep a small flathead screwdriver in your guitar case, or like tallboybass said, just use the end of a cable. I always keep a small screwdriver in my case if I ever need to change the preamp battery on my active bass. And I also always have an allen wrench in my case incase a string breaks and I need to make a quick change or change the action or anything else that might pop up.

Since the direct out in the amp is before the preamp, you could always just run into a DI box, then to your amp. The signal from the DI going into the mixer would be the same in either case.

Although it is something that might have been an oversight where maybe in the next batch of models they can just reverse the DI out 180 degrees so you can easily unplug it.
 
Although it is something that might have been an oversight where maybe in the next batch of models they can just reverse the DI out 180 degrees so you can easily unplug it.

I see it as an oversight on an otherwise GREAT piece of gear. Personally, I'd be chapped at having to carry a separate DI box when a little poke with a guitar cord would do it. I don't usually use the DI so it's not a problem for me.
 
...boooooooo! (i mean that in the best way possible... it's only cuz i love your gear RAG! or should I say, Mr. Gallien?)

I sure hope this is one of those "better late than never situations"

I guess it works out anyway as this will give me some time to start saving up to get either the 210MBE or 410MBE when it comes out.

Are you able to offer any input on the ability of the MB210 to power the 410MBE? There have been some posts indicating that the amp in the MB210 may not really be powerful enough to power a 410 and that the sound would be uneven since less watts would be going to each speaker in a 410 than in the 210. Several people have downright said not to pair the MB210 with a 410 cab. But that's exactly what I'd like to do. Is the 410MBE also designed to go with the MB210?

It will drive the 410MBE no problem.
Bob
 
Really thinking about trading in my Acoustic B200 for the MB115. Only thing I'm worried about is that it can't be combined with anything else...not that I have done that with my B200 but I like options. I played a MB115, and am a beginner with any crowds I play being less than probably 50 at this rate. :) I think the MB115 will fit me just nicely.
 
Think this would mix well with the mb210?

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It's very important to pay attention to the specs of any extension cab you're trying to put with the MB210.

So let's think this one through, if at 4 ohms, the MB210 is sending 500 watts, that means that 250 watts is going to the 210 cab that is part of the combo and 250 watts is going to your extension cab.

Now, if 250 watts are going into your cab and the cab is only rated to handle 200 watts, what do we think will end up happening? KABLOOM!

Extension for the MB210 must be 8 ohms and at least 250 watt handling (ideally you want at least 300 watt handling to have a little headroom).

Think about this, the MB212 has the 212MBE cab in it which handles 600 watts, the amp sends 500 watts (100 watts overhead room), the MB210 has the 210MBE cab in it which handles 400 watts and the amp sends 350 watts to it alone and 250 watts to it if running an extension.

So as you can see, it's a good idea to have a little bit of head room with your cab RMS Handling, but whatever you do, it's definitely NOT a good idea to get a cab that has a lower RMS handling than your amp will be sending to it. You'll blow your cab out for sure.

Just need to be attentive to details when it comes to mixing and matching amps and cabs.