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New Speaker For This Cab (WinISD Confusion)

Hi, the speaker of my H|H Electronics Combo from the late 70's/ early 80's
seems to have it's best years behind it and as soon as I have some extra money
on my hands I wanna replace it with a new one. I tried to use WinISD but the
dimensions of my cab are kinda odd and I don't even know if I can use this program
for my cab...please look at the picture and tell me what you think.

Btw the amp of my combo has 100W and is happy with anything from 4 to 15 ohm's.
I play fingerstlye roots reggae. Thickness of the cab-wood is 1,9cm.

cabinet.jpg
 
winISD helps you model a cab to match known drivers specs, while you have known cab specs and seek a driver.

So to use this program you would have to start entering the specs of driver candidates, pray a lot, and hope to find a cab close to what you have. Sounds very tedious!

Maybe seek another program.

Maybe find you cab volume and seek a driver that claims to work for that volume, pray a lot, enter the advertised specs and see if the dimensions are close.

Best I think to find another design software. Check the faq sticky at the top of this forum. I think there are excel files linked there somewhere. Perhaps one does what you need. Pray too.

Very cool folded horn/vent/port but it complicates volume. Small brain here. Ive killed off most of my good brain cells by now. I dont know where cab volume ends and horn begins.

I hope someone has a better answer for you.

Good luck!
 
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WinISD can not calculate such a cabinet, as it "only" does sealed or bass reflex cabinets, or bandpass enclosores based on the two designs.
In general, horn enclosures tend to favor speakers with robust suspension and cone, short Xmax, high efficiency motor, low-ish Q and limited inductance) or the impedance and response might get very uneven. Low/medium Xmax is often enough, since the horn path will do most of the "Heavy lifting" in the lower frequencies.
 
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It is a bass reflex cab, the 'horn' is much too short to actually work as a horn. The problem is that WinISD can't figure out the tuning frequency with a tapered port. HornResp can, modeling it as a rear loaded horn. You can break down the internal volume into rectangles and triangles to figure the internal volume, and you can load HornResp with a generic fifteen specs to find the tuning frequency. Then you can use the volume and tuning frequency in WinISD to try various speakers to find the best match. But HornResp takes a fair amount of skill to use. It's three dimensional chess compared to WinISD as checkers.
 
Another avenue would be to find the resonant freq with dancing rice on the speaker and frequency generation on pc or phone. At very low volume the rice will sit down and ride with the cone at resonance.

From there you need one of the big brains like @DukeLeJeune to tell you what to do with it. I think Ricks idea to reverse engineer an equivalent refex box at the same tuning and see what speaker works could well be the go.
 
I would estimate the effective net internal volume of Eternal's cab at about 80 liters, and guesstimate the effective tuning frequency to be in the mid-50's ballpark.

That's a good tuning for low-E but arguably a bit high for low-B. Go ahead and try it of course, but if you're getting fart-out, you might try reducing the width of the port (both the straight and horn-flared sections) by about 7 or 8 centimeters. You can use wood or, to keep the weight down, maybe pieces of polyethylene or some other closed-cell rigid foam cut to fit and glued in place. This will move the tuning frequency down into the upper 40's, assuming my guesstimates are in the ballpark.

The Eminence CA154 is indeed a good fit for that cab, I think. Its 5mm excursion is a bit better than average, and its curve looks good to me. I think you can expect a pretty big bottom end.
 
Hi, the speaker of my H|H Electronics Combo from the late 70's/ early 80's
seems to have it's best years behind it and as soon as I have some extra money
on my hands I wanna replace it with a new one. I tried to use WinISD but the
dimensions of my cab are kinda odd and I don't even know if I can use this program
for my cab...please look at the picture and tell me what you think.

Btw the amp of my combo has 100W and is happy with anything from 4 to 15 ohm's.
I play fingerstlye roots reggae. Thickness of the cab-wood is 1,9cm.

View attachment 819416

You can treat that as a regular port. It's not the right size to be a horn loaded. It's more of a flared port. Look for discussions on flared ports, Which can help to reduce turbulence and vortex problems.
 
Thank you all for your replies!

That's a good tuning for low-E but arguably a bit high for low-B. Go ahead and try it of course, but if you're getting fart-out, you might try reducing the width of the port (both the straight and horn-flared sections) by about 7 or 8 centimeters. You can use wood or, to keep the weight down, maybe pieces of polyethylene or some other closed-cell rigid foam cut to fit and glued in place. This will move the tuning frequency down into the upper 40's, assuming my guesstimates are in the ballpark.

The Eminence CA154 is indeed a good fit for that cab, I think. Its 5mm excursion is a bit better than average, and its curve looks good to me. I think you can expect a pretty big bottom end.

My bass is a standard tuned 4-string, so I guess the cab fits it quite good.

Probably gonna try out the CA154 but until I have the money I'm gonna read more
on the subject and take all the tips you guys gave me into consideration. Thanks once again.
 
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I liked H&H stuff back in the day. I loved the format of low height, great handles and electroluminescent control panel. I still have a 100W mono power amp that just recently failed and an IC100 that I pulled the pre-amp out of an replaced with a tube one. Works quite nicely. I’m thinking of replacing the power amp with a class D module.

Back in the Eighties I had a 2x15 from them too. Built a 150W tube amp to drive it.
 
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Thank you all for your replies!



My bass is a standard tuned 4-string, so I guess the cab fits it quite good.

Probably gonna try out the CA154 but until I have the money I'm gonna read more
on the subject and take all the tips you guys gave me in consideration. Thanks once again.
cost to find the resonance freq is spoonful of dry rice and maybe a converter for 1/8 headphone to 1/4'' instrument. Free software.
 
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cost to find the resonance freq is spoonful of dry rice and maybe a converter for 1/8 headphone to 1/4'' instrument. Free software.
The problem with that is I already took the speaker out of the cab to measure the inside.
I would have to resolder the wires... :bag: and ask someone for a soldering iron.
Or better get my self an iron...tired of borrowing these things... :smug:
 
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