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new speakers for a 70s Ampeg 2x15

400 watts is a lot isn't it?

what benefits do lightweight speakers have over heavier ones? I always thought the better connection with the ground (ei, the heavier the speaker cabinet is) the more easily the cabinet could push out stronger bass frequencies. this is probably bull, but it just always kinda seemed that way to me. Kind of like how I prefer rubber feet over wheels/casters.

I've heard good things about EV speakers, I know Bob Weston and Albini both use them in their homemade speaker cabs, both of whom use a very midrange heavy tone.

Like I said in my original post, I don't know much about speakers, so I appreciate what you guys are doing.
Well almost all high end PA companies use neos, so it's not like neos are a bad thing in and of themselves. There are good neos and bad neos, just like ceramic speakers. And the heaviness of a cab is really irrelevant to the amount of low end it'll put out. And that extra 1.3K of top in the 18sound driver...makes a big difference in the high end response.

But if you don't want to spend a lot and want to put something in there that's inexpensive, handles a goodly amount of power, and sounds old school, you should check into the Eminence Beta 15 or Delta 15a. The Delta will be slightly brighter and handle more power, but the Beta 15 is cheaper, a little bit darker on the top end, and probably will handle enough power for your situation. I've got the Delta 15a's in my early 60's B-15 replica cabs and they sound great.
 
The higher the number, the higher the frequency. So no, the Delta will go significantly higher. And lower. For an old Ampeg cab, it's a pretty safe bet to go with the Delta IMHO.
 
Dont' go by the frequency range numbers too much. Highly useless, mainly there as a marketing thing for people who don't understand THE REAL SPECS. Sheer padding, nearly devoid of nutritional value.

Instead look at the graph for on-axis midrange-and-up response, and realize when you start to seeing some peaky stuff that you are well into beamy cone cry territory.

And if you want to know about the driver's low frequency performance model it in WinISD Pro or the like, in an enclosure of appropriate tuning and size for what you are using, or would use. Make sure you also see cone excursion or max power or max SPL graphs to get an idea of how xmax actually is limiting a driver's performance at higher levels.
 
I should add that Greenboy and Bill know way more about speakers than I do, but I use the Deltas and like them, and their high end specs sound fairly accurate to me. I honestly have no way of knowing if they're the best speaker for your cab, but they've worked well for me in Ampeg cabs...what can I tell ya? ;)
 
Well, if you look at the graphs the shape of everything from around 200 Hz and up can really tell you a lot about how various speakers sound, once you have a few speakers that you've both heard and looked at graphs of to begin to grok the relationships.

Much more revealing than a single top-end number that may be a crapload of dB down anyway, it can tell you there's some brightness above a bit of scoop in the upper hundreds, etc. After awhile you can practically hear the voicing when you see the chart.
 
I knew cabinet design is much more involved than we were making it seem. I was hoping for some guys who are familiar with an old school cabinet who have suggestions for some appropriate replacement speakers, preferably based on personal experience.

I've read quite a few posts on cabinet design, DIY builds and such, all very interesting stuff.
 
what do you think of the Eminence Delta15?
It will fart out with as little as 40 watts, has a tendency to midbass boom and it won't do doodly squat below 60 Hz. Otherwise it's just peachy. :D
Jimmy finds them to his liking as they do work fairly well with low powered tube amps, and they have sonic characteristics similar to those of vintage Ampeg drivers. But if you plan on going low and loud they aren't going to do it.
 
That size cab is fine, but the duct size isn't, it will chuff like mad with any real power. 40 Hz tuning would do nicely, use two 4" PVC ducts each 8 inches long per chamber. I agree on using a 2515 with only 200 watts per driver, either the Basslite for 4 ohms or the Deltalite II for 8 ohms.
would there be any benefit to using 2x 8 ohm drivers wired independently as to combine to 4 ohms when both are plugged in.....

what are the trade offs with the lightweight speakers......
 
It will fart out with as little as 40 watts, has a tendency to midbass boom and it won't do doodly squat below 60 Hz. Otherwise it's just peachy. :D
Jimmy finds them to his liking as they do work fairly well with low powered tube amps, and they have sonic characteristics similar to those of vintage Ampeg drivers. But if you plan on going low and loud they aren't going to do it.

How could that be true if Electric Amps Cabinets come with Kappas or Delta15s? Their tube amps are in the 200-400watt range.

Does it have to do mostly with the Ampeg cabinet size?
 
It will fart out with as little as 40 watts, has a tendency to midbass boom and it won't do doodly squat below 60 Hz. Otherwise it's just peachy. :D
Jimmy finds them to his liking as they do work fairly well with low powered tube amps, and they have sonic characteristics similar to those of vintage Ampeg drivers. But if you plan on going low and loud they aren't going to do it.
I've run my SVT in two of those B-15 cabs with the Deltas and it handled it, but yes, I would agree with this assessment, and yes, that's exactly why I like them, and I think two could handle 400w but I doubt they could go much louder. Maybe in a bigger cab they could handle more...the early B-15 cabs are pretty small. But I don't get any kickbacks to do a sell job for the Deltas, and Bill and Greenie are way more qualified when it comes to cabs and drivers and what works best, so if you're ranking opinions, definitely give them more weight than me.