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New to bass set up, beginner issue

Hey all ! 😄

Bought a brand new Harley Benton weeks ago and as you probably know, it's a very low-cost brand so, obviously, i had to set it up "a little bit".

The thing is, I've looked up for some tutorials here and there before starting the process but that's it about my knowledge. I'm fairly new to bass set up and i'm already stuck at the first step of the process : adjusting the trussrod.

So what is the problem ?

Well, at first, the strings were buzzing like hell as they were pinned against the neck, there was no space between the strings and the frets when i did the "finger on fret 1, elbow on fret 15, i tap on 7th fret or so check"

So, it took me about 2 weeks to get it about right. But about right is were i'm stuck. I can almost pass a credit card when doing the test but i still have a fair amount of buzzing going on when i play so i thought i would just continue to bend the trussrod maybe for a day or two but it seems like the trussrod don't want it that way. When adjusting the trussrod, i've come to the point where i need to pull way harder than before. So from there i've been very cautious. I tried to pull a little bit harder but no too much to see if it would unstuck itself at some point but nothing. Can't turn it further that way so it seems like i would have to pull much harder to make something move in there and at this point, i'm just too scared to pull further.

So i thought, maybe i'd have to let the wood alone for a bit but it's been a week now and i still can't go further with the trussrod.

The neck has a slight curve, rather close to what i used to see when leaving the luthier with other basses, meaning i'm close to the goal, well at least that's what i think cause i might also be way too far into the process, i don't know 😅

For now, i'm just asking to myself if there is a problem with the trussrod or if i just have to adjust the strings at the bridge saddles.
 
Do you live in an area where you can access a music store or repair shop for setup? It would probably be easier and more efficient to pay a pro to do the setup and ask if you can watch and ask questions while they make the needed adjustments.

It's great to learn these skills, but you don't want to be without a playable instrument while you're learning how to do it!
 
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i'm already stuck at the first step of the process : adjusting the trussrod....When adjusting the trussrod, i've come to the point where i need to pull way harder than before....i still can't go further with the trussrod. The neck has a slight curve, rather close to what i used to see when leaving the luthier with other basses, meaning i'm close to the goal, well at least that's what i think.... 'm just asking to myself if there is a problem with the trussrod or if i just have to adjust the strings at the bridge saddles.

A good instructional video may help you, but conbsider that bringing the bass to a repair tech or luthier may be worth the money. A pro doing a setup can do a neck adjustment, a nut height adjustment (making sure nut slots are at the proper height so strings vibrate freely), saddle height adjustment, intonation adjusting (the length of each string via the saddles), and adjusting the pickup height if needed (to get the best tone).

HB is a budget bass but it might be a good idea to budget in the cost of a professional setup from someone who can also tell you if there are any neck or truss rod problems that are unfixable - a combination inspection and setup.

Also, these basses tend to have budget unbranded Chinese strings, and your bass sound could be improved by replacing them with a set of $20-ish Fender or D'Addario strings (preferably brought in by you with the bass for the setup, as the nut might need to be adjusted a little with new strings).

Harley Benton's official US shop sells basses for as little as $200, but if you want a good playing experience it just might be worth spending the ~ $100 extra for new strings and a pro to look it over and set it up.
 
Do you live in an area where you can access a music store or repair shop for setup? It would probably be easier and more efficient to pay a pro to do the setup and ask if you can watch and ask questions while they make the needed adjustments.

It's great to learn these skills, but you don't want to be without a playable instrument while you're learning how to do it!
Well the thing is, that's what i usually do, i know a great luthier and his work is worth every penny but for once, i want to give it a try. I found out, if the nut is not right, i'll have to do pay a pro to the set up anyway. So i'll go as far as i can and i'll see. Thx


A good instructional video may help you, but conbsider that bringing the bass to a repair tech or luthier may be worth the money. A pro doing a setup can do a neck adjustment, a nut height adjustment (making sure nut slots are at the proper height so strings vibrate freely), saddle height adjustment, intonation adjusting (the length of each string via the saddles), and adjusting the pickup height if needed (to get the best tone).

HB is a budget bass but it might be a good idea to budget in the cost of a professional setup from someone who can also tell you if there are any neck or truss rod problems that are unfixable - a combination inspection and setup.

Also, these basses tend to have budget unbranded Chinese strings, and your bass sound could be improved by replacing them with a set of $20-ish Fender or D'Addario strings (preferably brought in by you with the bass for the setup, as the nut might need to be adjusted a little with new strings).

Harley Benton's official US shop sells basses for as little as $200, but if you want a good playing experience it just might be worth spending the ~ $100 extra for new strings and a pro to look it over and set it up.
String-wise, i bought a HB Deluxe edition, so they came with D'addario already, so thankfully i'm not playing with finger graters.

Luthier-wise, i have a coworker that gave a try to a kinda half-pro dude who did a set up for half the price and my coworker was happy with it, so i might ask him for that guy's adress if i don't want spend to much money.

Alright ! I think i'll make it alone from there. Thank you everyone !
 
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if i just have to adjust the strings at the bridge saddles.
Yes - adjust the bridge saddle height - The goal right now should just be to get the thing playable. You can "fine tune" it later.
Especially since the strings are "pinned against the neck"

Unless the bass is "gooched" - you should at least be able to get it in reasonable playing condition in a short amount of time by;
1) adjusting the RELIEF - which you've done
2) adjusting the string height.

You've already adjusted the truss rod for at least some relief.
A credit card is fine for now - you just want some Relief in the neck so it's not straight or back-bowed.
(and just to make sure - you are Loosening it - turning to the left.... and it won't go any further - which if that's the case - you might start looking if there's any return options)

Now raise your bridge saddles, checking around the 19th/20th fret for between 5/64" clearance, or a bit more if necessary.
If you have a small machinist ruler, that's fine, but I find feeler gauges are much more reliable.
The shaft of a 5/64 drill bit would due the trick as well.

That should get it in playable condition.
You'll eventually want to set your intonation and adjust your pickup height - which there's plenty of info in the suggestions here - but again - just get it so it's playable for now and you can learn and tweak these things as you go.

If it's still buzzing at 5/64 or greater, there's other things going on; most common / fixable being nut height and / or uneven frets - so it would be time to visit your luthier friend.

i heard the neck adjustment should take away the buzzing
No. that's only one aspect of set-up.
If the bass has already been set up to preference and then starts buzzing, that would likely take care of it in that situation.
 
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Well i didn't. But i didn't only because i heard the neck adjustment should take away the buzzing and it's not gone yet. I'm very new as you can see. 😅
That's accurate. Saddles won't impact anything if your buzzing is happening down low on the neck.
But also, have reasonable expectations for the cheapest bass available on the market.
 
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Here's a link to John Carruthers. If you were unaware, John has worked for just about every production bass manufacturer, as well as design and custom builds.
There are four steps. This link takes you to # 1. 2 thru 4 are to the right of video. Short, to the point and easy to follow/do.


@Dj Bebel I cannot stress enough how good Jon Carruthers vids are. Make sure you watch them in order, 1) Truss Rod 2) Saddle Height Adjustment (action) 3) Nut Action, 4) Intonation. Each vid is about or less than 3 minutes so he just goes straight into it and your attention doesn't wander. Familiarise by watching a few times before undertaking.
You'll need a few basic tools though as you will with any setup;

Set of Allen Keys - your's is a Harley Benton so get a metric set
6" engineers rule (make sure you have imperial scale on it as well)
Capo - doesn't have to be expensive a £6 job off Amazon will do you
Feeler gauges - most are imperial as well as metric, just ensure you get a set with both standards - again quite cheap from Amazon.
Tuner - for intonation.

The only other tool you'll need if you want to step 3 is a set of nut files. These can be a little more expensive but you can make your own with various diameter drill bits with emery cloth wrapped around them.

As a beginner I would advise you skip step 3 unless you're getting buzzing around first and second and fret once you've completed steps one and two.
If you do have to file your nut PLEASE watch a few videos on how they do it as if you take out too much material you'll need a new nut. Always file on a slight angle from fret board (higher) to tuners (lower), Slowly and gently, and keep checking every few cuts until the depth is right.

I've used Jons videos for years and still have them bookmarked as my "go to" 👍
 
But also, have reasonable expectations for the cheapest bass available on the market.
To be fair I have a couple of Harley Bentons and have never found them wanting for their foundational attributes.

I would recommend OP slacks off his truss rod until it becomes easy to turn but not really loose, leave it a couple of days then go to step one in Jon Carruthers vids.
 
If truss rod is not moving it, loosen strings, then loosen truss rod before trying to go tighter.


It looks like that was the key ! Yesterday i gave it a try again and i forgot to tune the bass before so the strings were loose and it made me able to move the Allen key a little bit and now that's it ! I tried the two business cards technique and it went like a charm, just right. I'm finally done with the trussrod adjustment :D

From now i need too buy some equipment so i'll go for what you advised here. Thank you all, i appreciate your help !
 
Hello,

If you want to well understand all steps, it can be easier with sketchs. My reference since years:



This guide, in free download, is the perfect tool to well understand and set up your bass.

Yes. The Jerzy Drozd guide is actually linked in the sticky section at the top of this forum.

Anyone wanting to do setups should read Jerzy’s guide a few times.

OP stated his strings were laying on the board when he began. In that case, you’d always best begin with raising the strings saddles enough that they’re off the board BEFORE setting the relief, and then go back to setting string height (action) after relief is set.
 
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