Double Bass New to double bass, and I need help choosing a bridge

[Rick From FL]

Hi! I'm a long time electric bass player, and recently I ran across a double bass at a pretty low price. I immediately noticed there was no bridge on the bass, which looks like it was hardly played.
I've been looking online, and there's quite a variety of bridges available and the prices are all over the place. Our local music stores don't stock these basses, so I'm hoping to get some suggestions here on what I need. I'm hoping to use it at some point for older country, maybe some 50's music. And if you have any idea on what company made this, please fill me in. The seller thought it is Chinese, and said his father had it in his non music store for maybe 20 years. The back is curved. There's no label inside.
Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[Bisounourse]

A regular maple bridge will do (if you're really going for names of brands: Teller, Despiau, ... but I think the ones at Gollihur are good and decent as well (no affiliation)). Keep in mind that a DB bridge needs to be cut manually.

However: whatever you do; do NOT try to install it yourself, but take it to a luthier to have it dressed (as said, you need to cut your bridge into shape, so not really beginners stuff) and ask for a setup while he has to install the new bridge, perhaps new strings and let him take a look at the soundpost. Chances are the soundpost fell into the body (because there is no pressure on the top of the strings).

 

[Sam Sherry]

Congrats on your new bass. No offense meant but your question is like saying, "New driver; help me choose a carburetor."

Buying a bridge-shaped object is easy. Buying the bridge blank which is the correct size for your individual instrument is trickier. Carving that blank to yield best sound and feel for your individual musical needs is where craft meets art.

Try to find a luthier who specializes in basses. S/he will have a stock of bridge blanks available and know how to set your bass up for the music you're pointing toward. FWIW, a full setup generally includes attention to bridge, soundpost, fingerboard and strings.

Sincere good luck and go get 'em!

 

[Scott Lynch]

Fitting and installing a bridge is the job of a pro. To repeat what has been said, there is also the issue of the soundpost, which is the wooden dowel inside the bass that rests against the top and back of the bass and which is crucial in keeping the pressure of the strings from crushing the top of the bass. This must be fit precisely and is also the job of the pro.

Find a good local luthier that is experienced specifically with double basses. It may be expensive but it will be more than worth it to have it done right.

 

[Rick From FL]

Thanks so much for the advice! I contacted a local musician, who has provided me with the name of a luthier who can set it up for me. Im looking forward to learning to play this amazing instrument!

 

[CaseyVancouver]

Thanks so much for the advice! I contacted a local musician, who has provided me with the name of a luthier who can set it up for me. Im looking forward to learning to play this amazing instrument!

Another consideration is a bridge with adjustable height screws. Some basses change shape over time and with the seasons so it's nice to be able to adjust the height of the strings. The bridge width has to match the fingerboard and the curve for bowing. A luthier will get it right.

 

[PauFerro]

I spent a lot of time with a luthier on my own upright purchase. he told me you want a quartersawn bridge as non-quartersawn bridges break and crack. In fact, they told me they were giving me a quartersawn bridge, but when I took it in for some minor adjustment, the bridge cracked - the second luthier told me the bridge was NOT quartersawn. Appeared completely oblivious to what the senior luthier.owner had told me. They put a quartersawn one on my bass free of charge since it was promised to me.

Anyway, my point is that the quartersawn nature of the bridge might matter a lot -- given my experience.

I have heard you can get carbon fiber bridges, which I would also consider if I could find one. I hear about cracked bridges a lot, and it scares me now that I use my own upright regularly on gigs. Here is one supplier, although I've never tried this kind of bridge...I have a feeling 95% of the people on this site use a wooden bridge though -- but here is the carbon fiber one in case you are interested.

SOUND COMPOSITES - Upright Bass Parts

I have never tried these composite based bridges, but I would consider them if I have to get a new bridge some day soon.

 

[Rick From FL]

I spent a lot of time with a luthier on my own upright purchase. he told me you want a quartersawn bridge as non-quartersawn bridges break and crack. In fact, they told me they were giving me a quartersawn bridge, but when I took it in for some minor adjustment, the bridge cracked - the second luthier told me the bridge was NOT quartersawn. Appeared completely oblivious to what the senior luthier.owner had told me. They put a quartersawn one on my bass free of charge since it was promised to me.

Anyway, my point is that the quartersawn nature of the bridge might matter a lot -- given my experience.

I have heard you can get carbon fiber bridges, which I would also consider if I could find one. I hear about cracked bridges a lot, and it scares me now that I use my own upright regularly on gigs. Here is one supplier, although I've never tried this kind of bridge...I have a feeling 95% of the people on this site use a wooden bridge though -- but here is the carbon fiber one in case you are interested.

SOUND COMPOSITES - Upright Bass Parts

I have never tried these composite based bridges, but I would consider them if I have to get a new bridge some day soon.

My dad, a life long musician, once told me "the more you learn, the more you realize what you don't know!" I appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge and experience!

 

[Rick From FL]

Another consideration is a bridge with adjustable height screws. Some basses change shape over time and with the seasons so it's nice to be able to adjust the height of the strings. The bridge width has to match the fingerboard and the curve for bowing. A luthier will get it right.

I've always taken my electric bases to professionals to have them set up and maintained, so I'll definitely be going to a luthier to get this one ready to play. Thanks for the help!

 

[bassfiddlesteve]

I've always taken my electric bases to professionals to have them set up and maintained, so I'll definitely be going to a luthier to get this one ready to play. Thanks for the help!

If you're willing to drive two hours south on I-75 there's an excellent violin shop in Tampa who can do the work for you. They cut a new bridge for my bass and also dressed the fingerboard.

Violin Shop Tampa

- Steve

 

[Rick From FL]

If you're willing to drive two hours south on I-75 there's an excellent violin shop in Tampa who can do the work for you. They cut a new bridge for my bass and also dressed the fingerboard.

Violin Shop Tampa

- Steve

Thanks so much, Steve! I appreciate the information!

 

[Rick From FL]

A regular maple bridge will do (if you're really going for names of brands: Teller, Despiau, ... but I think the ones at Gollihur are good and decent as well (no affiliation)). Keep in mind that a DB bridge needs to be cut manually.

However: whatever you do; do NOT try to install it yourself, but take it to a luthier to have it dressed (as said, you need to cut your bridge into shape, so not really beginners stuff) and ask for a setup while he has to install the new bridge, perhaps new strings and let him take a look at the soundpost. Chances are the soundpost fell into the body (because there is no pressure on the top of the strings).

Thanks for making me aware of this! I have a lot to learn, and I can see I came to the right place.

 

[robobass]

Bridges do warp or break occasionally, but it's quite rare - at least if it wasn't junk in the first place Getting a CF bridge (I've never heard of one) seems a bit drastic. Cars can get flats, but most people still choose regular tires over "run-flats". Also, most luthiers won't install a bridge you bring them, at least not unless it was discussed beforehand. There are issues of both dimensions and quality, so let your repairer select the bridge.

 

[Laura Camacho]

After almost 20 years here , take my advice : find a good luthier , get a decent bridge , make sure it's adjustable ! And don't hesitate to take it back for adjustments .