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Nickel Vs steel

The Physics behind this is simple - strings (and almost all magnetic pickups) are "flat" at low frequencies. Doesn't matter the construction, there is nothing that takes away (or adds) low end from either. Low mids - pretty much the same thing. When it comes to upper mids and treble content, though, there are things going on that make different strings and pickups work differently. So, why do certain strings or pickups sound bass shy? It's because they're screaming at you at higher frequencies, and that dominates your perception of them - too much treble sounds like there is less bass, but...there isn't.

When you put a pickup at a different spot, now there are things that change the amount of low end, but it isn't the pickup - it's the position.
 
I use NPS strings once I switched I've never looked back to SS easier on the fingers IMHO sounds just as good and last one helluva long time. I've used several brands with great success.
Dean Markley Blue Steel for my jazz basses
Ernie Ball Bass Slinkys for Stingray Specials & P/J

I was using MJC Iron Works until they where no longer in production.
 
The Physics behind this is simple - strings (and almost all magnetic pickups) are "flat" at low frequencies. Doesn't matter the construction, there is nothing that takes away (or adds) low end from either. Low mids - pretty much the same thing. When it comes to upper mids and treble content, though, there are things going on that make different strings and pickups work differently. So, why do certain strings or pickups sound bass shy? It's because they're screaming at you at higher frequencies, and that dominates your perception of them - too much treble sounds like there is less bass, but...there isn't.

Your statement is correct. When you combine this with the fact that humans loss high frequency hearing as they age, the perception is probably even more biased. As reference, I did a hearing study last year and discovered I can't hear past 11 to 12k Hertz. Note about SS strings: If the SS coating material has austenitic structure, the string MUST have a regular steel/iron core. Otherwise, they will not be magnetic and will not generate an electrical signal. Nickel is a magnetic material and does not have this issue.
 
Note about SS strings: If the SS coating material has austenitic structure, the string MUST have a regular steel/iron core. Otherwise, they will not be magnetic and will not generate an electrical signal. Nickel is a magnetic material and does not have this issue.

Nickel is magnetic, but most "nickel" strings have nickel plated steel windings - the core wire and most of the wrap wire are steel (there is only a tiny layer of nickel deposited on the wrap wire(s) - even if the nickel part of a string weren't magnetic, the string would still be plenty magnetic.

If you buy strings with pure nickel windings (there are relatively few strings made this way), yes, the fact that nickel is magnetic helps, as you're replacing a decent amount of steel with the nickel.

If you have stainless steel that is magnetic, it is because it has less nickel than the stainless varieties that are magnetic - counterintuitively, adding nickel reduces the magnetic properties in that case.
 
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TL,DR : does steel strings have more low end than nickels?

So, I've been a long time nickel rounds user (and flats), six months ago i put a set of steels on one of my p basses and love the sound, especially the fact that they remained fresh and bright..
Anyway, for my question: i've seen a video of a guy that did a comparison between nickel and steels and he stated that the main differences between them is that the steels are brighter and have more low end while the nickels are more mid forward. I always thought that nickels had more low end and went with that in mind to find my sound...
I would love to hear people's thoughts on this based on your experience.
Thx.

I've found that using one's EQ is a much more effective/profound way to change the tonal characteristics of an instrument and in most cases, can mitigate the difference.

I've used both steel and nickel strings switching back and forth and really in an ensemble setting, I''ll be darned if I can tell the difference. Recording is a different. When the bass is prominent or isolated there is a difference, but my experience in the final mix unless you are really looking for that one particular thing, it's doubtful one would notice.
 
But it isn't just the magnetic properties involved; nickel is also a softer metal between two harder metals that would otherwise be in direct contact. So a nickel plated steel string is more complex mechanically, in particular right where the windings touch, and must either stick or rub.

Without scientific proof, I use that as my explanation for why a SS string break-in is smoother, like turning a tone control down, while a NPS string, to me, keeps some high frequency spikes as the other highs roll off, and that sounds trashy to me.
 
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But it isn't just the magnetic properties involved; nickel is also a softer metal between two harder metals that would otherwise be in direct contact. So a nickel plated steel string is more complex mechanically, in particular right where the windings touch, and must either stick or rub.

That is precisely why nickel strings are less bright - the high frequency content is damped more quickly by the softer interfaces in a nickel plated string; in a stainless one the high frequency energy remains in the string longer - it "zings".
 
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I don't claim to know the science on the actual frequencies, but as someone who primarily plays nickel-plated strings, I do find that steel strings to sound slightly "scooped" on average in comparison to nickel-plated's more prominent midrange, to my ear. I therefore tend to notice a little more apparent low end in the rare occasion that I use steel strings, whether or not there is more actual low end content involved.
 
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In my experience, steel has more zing, that lasts a bit longer. But when steels are dead they are more dead than nickels, who still retain nice mids.

I have steels on some of my basses, and even after a year (shared among a few basses, but still I practice and play a lot) a set of steels will have plenty of mids - how long do you play a set that they get "dead"?
 
Ah, maybe the thin nickel layer wears through in some places more than others, and *this* is the reason for the less uniform break-in, causing some highs to roll off more than others.

Also, I can imagine this layer wearing through most quickly over the frets, like internal divots. Wow, *that* could sound bad.
 
i've used both/all types of rounds, typically would choose SS over any other --- just a habit --- not based on much but, "that's what i've always done." but, if they're rounds = i like 'em all!
I have been meaning to ask if you played rounds or flats. Sounds like the old question about whether rounds are rougher on fretless fingerboards is much ado about nothing?
 
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I have been meaning to ask if you played rounds or flats. Sounds like the old question about whether rounds are rougher on fretless fingerboards is much ado about nothing?
i've only played rounds. one ebony fingerboard (~25-30 years) got some minimal attention a couple of years ago (DIY sanding to eliminate the signs/looks of modest fingerboard wear).

my newer rosewood and coated maple fingerboards will outlive me (caveat: easy to do, i'm old!). :D

but yes: it's "much ado about nothing." i've only encountered delusional level 'fretless fingerboard paranoia' on TB, and only from newbies/posers/wannabes = folks who want to identify with "fretless" but who don't actually play or depend on them. the cats who are actually playing fretless EBs don't worry about it, i.e., read their posts! i don't ever remember worrying about such dribble...maybe i did when i was a newbie/poser/wannabe --- but i can't be certain, too long ago...i think i just wanted to play well (and have some fun doing it while i made some money!!!). ;)
 

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