To continue from here: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6429078#post6429078 Building a top performance speaker cab for bass guitar amplification chain is all about making compromises: a cab needs to have a huge bottom (low frequency extension) which requires a big cabinet, while at the same time it needs to be portable, lightweight, and to be able to fit into a busy gigging musicians trunk, which means small cabinet. So there you have it you cannot have both. Its Physics It is the same when choosing a loudspeaker: the moving parts (cone, surround, spider, and voice coil) need to move very fast, and to respond to fine nuances of musicians playing style with ease, meaning they have to be thin and as light as possible. However, they also need to be robust and strong to survive the continuous onslaught of a, for example, loud rock gig night after night, which means they have to be thick and heavy. Again, it is all about compromise. Like any other speaker cabinet design process, this one started with choice of the driver. I noticed that one particular little gem keeps showing up over and over again in a vast majority of contemporary bass guitar 2x10cabinets. You guessed right, it is the Eminence Delta 10. Manufactured by one of the largest companies on the market (if not THE largest), Delta series 10 woofer offers surprisingly long cone excursion at low distortion, and a quite high efficiency considering the relatively small cone surface and magnet size. This speaker has a pressed steel basket unlike the more expensive cast aluminum. It has simple terminals with provision to connect another speaker in parallel. The vented ceramic magnet, voice coil, braids, spider, surround, paper dust cap and cone all seem to be good quality, making this speaker a best buy unit with excellent price/performance ratio. One other thing: it was not made for weight weenies! Nor was the cabinet: Its MDF and it weighs around 54lbs Im a strong enough guy to carry it around myself and it fits into the trunk of my old jalopy car nicely, leaving plenty of spare room for the head, cables and what not I use MDF, tough carpet covering, steel grills, and plastic corners to cope with rigors of gigging as well as rear side ports to lower the tuning frequency and some damping to fight the internal resonances. The assembly method of choice for a DIYer is certainly glue and screws. For weight weenies out there - when the glue sets you can even take the screws out, just the glue will hold for sure... I am not so obsessed with weight so I will leave them in. To reduce clutter in my working room I had the MDF depot pre-cut the panels to dimensions I had specified. One rule of thumb I always follow is to first gather all the parts for a cab and only then begin assembly. That way you can make sure that all dimensions are true and you will have no gaps or tight fits in your project.