Double Bass NS CR series basses: thoughts on converting it to a lefty?

[bill15142]

Hi Guys.

I'm completely new here so please forgive if this has been asked before. I did search and couldn't find anything. I'm also a beginner on EUB, so I hope you will excuse me if I ask what might be potentially some obvious or stupid questions

I'm interested in getting an NS CR5M bass. I know that they offer left-handers, but here in the UK it'll cost a few hundred quid more than I could get a right-hander for.

I'm wondering if any CR series owners could advise on how much / or little work they think would be required to effectively swap the strings round for lefty playing? at the minimum I would expect to widen a couple of the string slots at the bridge and nut. If that's all, then no worries. However, I wonder if any of the following issues might come up.

a: Is the radius of the fingerboard & bridge fairly symmetrical, or are they quite asymmetrical (so that I would notice a pronounced difference in the feel of the curvature if playing it from the "other side")?

b: are any of the existing string slots cut deep enough that I might experience excessive string rattling/choking if I strung them the opposite way round?

c: is the bridge exactly horizontal (so that the scale length is exactly the same for all strings), or is it inclined left-right in any way (the way that some bridges are on fretted basses to improve intonation). If so, is the inclination adjustable, or fixed?

d: are you aware of the piezos being placed in such a way that they would respond badly to strings being the opposite way round and plucked from the other side?

e: do the tuning pegs, and string holes (at the bottom of the bass), and string slots (in the back plate for full length strings) all have slots of the same size or are they specific to thick / thin strings?

...and bearing in mind that I know pretty much nothing about EUB's and double basses in general; any other potential problems that I haven't thought of?

Sorry for so many questions. If any CR series owners could cast a glance over their instruments with regard to the above and think of any potential problems that I might encounter, I'd be very grateful.

Cheers.
William

 

[stefen]

I wondered the same thing bill.

Being a lefty is already hard for electric and acoustic bass but for the EUB world it's almost a nobassland.
I wrote a mail to NS but they did not even reply.
So I went to an instrument shop and threw an eye on the wav.
I think there is no problem for the nut, and the bridge seems perpendicular. Plus i read somewhere on this forum that it can be reversed without any problem.
I looked closely at the fingerboard and as far as my eyes aren't deficient, it seemed really symmetrical but i do not guaranty it though... There could be a slight sanding for strings convenience but I could not see it...
Small inconvenients could be the markers on the wrong side as well as the Vol. and Tone pots.
We could ask ourselves if the length of string between the mec and the nut as an incidence on sustain and deepness as well but luthiers don't agree together on this last point.

This said, i had not the tools required for a precise check, just my eyes so I'll be glad as well to get your opinion my righty friends^^ or even from a lefty brother who has done the experience already!!!

Thanks & Peace

 

[bill15142]

Hi Stefan

Many thanks for your thoughts and observations on this. I still have not been in a position to examine one for myself.
I did however get a reply from NS on the subject, and at least as far as the CRM bass, which am considering, is concerned, they did confirm that the fingerboard is asymmetrical, so reversing the strings would result in a different, and presumably not ideal radius. Of course, how much this is, and how much I'd notice is still a bit of a guess.

Cheers
Bill

 

[eadg52]

Hi Guys.

I'm completely new here so please forgive if this has been asked before. I did search and couldn't find anything. I'm also a beginner on EUB, so I hope you will excuse me if I ask what might be potentially some obvious or stupid questions

I'm interested in getting an NS CR5M bass. I know that they offer left-handers, but here in the UK it'll cost a few hundred quid more than I could get a right-hander for.

I'm wondering if any CR series owners could advise on how much / or little work they think would be required to effectively swap the strings round for lefty playing? at the minimum I would expect to widen a couple of the string slots at the bridge and nut. If that's all, then no worries. However, I wonder if any of the following issues might come up.

a: Is the radius of the fingerboard & bridge fairly symmetrical, or are they quite asymmetrical (so that I would notice a pronounced difference in the feel of the curvature if playing it from the "other side")?

b: are any of the existing string slots cut deep enough that I might experience excessive string rattling/choking if I strung them the opposite way round?

c: is the bridge exactly horizontal (so that the scale length is exactly the same for all strings), or is it inclined left-right in any way (the way that some bridges are on fretted basses to improve intonation). If so, is the inclination adjustable, or fixed?

d: are you aware of the piezos being placed in such a way that they would respond badly to strings being the opposite way round and plucked from the other side?

e: do the tuning pegs, and string holes (at the bottom of the bass), and string slots (in the back plate for full length strings) all have slots of the same size or are they specific to thick / thin strings?

...and bearing in mind that I know pretty much nothing about EUB's and double basses in general; any other potential problems that I haven't thought of?

Sorry for so many questions. If any CR series owners could cast a glance over their instruments with regard to the above and think of any potential problems that I might encounter, I'd be very grateful.

Cheers.
William

I've only had my NS for a week and it's a four string, but to answer your questions...

a) The neck looks symmetrical to my eyes and should easily adapt to strings in reverse order.

b) The nut looks removeable (I haven't changed strings yet so not sure if it's fixed in any way) so I would ask a luthier to make another if it was me. The slots are neatly cut but I fear the 'G' would rattle a tad in slot wide enough for a low 'B'.
The bridge would be less trouble I think, given you can adhust the bridge height with an odd bias if you choose.

c) The bridge is square to the strings, scale length is equal.

d) Not my area of expertise but I don't see any problem. It may even be possible to turn the bridge around if it does make a difference. Makes no difference to the magnetic pups, of course.

e) The slots on the back plate are all the same width. Can't tell with the holes through the body, but easy enough to make a small hole bigger if need be.
The tuners are similar in that they are identical regardless of string size but this is more of a concern to me given they seem to be more apt to a BG, and not confidence inspiring considering the meagre tuning peg will have a thick low B wrapped around it for a while. But then again, that's an issue common to both sides of the hand of choice.

Steve