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NS Design Club

They would still have a magnetic influence on the strings. I don't need another bass with mag PUs, but a peizo-only bass (like my two former Rick Turners were) would be something I'd like to add to my choices.

I suppose I could just remove the EMGs.
EMGs don't have the strongest magnets out there and you could always wind them in as far away from the strings to minimise that effect. Doing this, I'd be stunned if you could actually tell the difference blind vs no mag pickups.

He probably doesn't offer such a model because I'd guess there is a limited market for it.
 
Okay so the nut exchange process has been a success.

photo_2021-12-18_18-37-38.jpg

It was 3mm too thick, so I had to sand it down. First with 240 grit sandpaper, then 120 for a smoother finish.
Took me a few days to do it due to work.

photo_2021-12-18_18-37-47.jpg
Original nut is out and its laying down on the replacement.
The NS nut is flat on the bottom so there was no need to sand the new one down on a fretboard to the proper radius.

photo_2021-12-18_18-37-57.jpg
The replacement is the TUSQ from Graphtech, made in Canada.
I didn't sand it down on height either, instead I put my fretboard back to being flat instead of having the stupid back bow that it had before and voila, it's done and the action is perfectly flat across the entire ebony fingerboard, just the way I like it. Same playing all across from from the bottom of the fingerboard to the very top.

photo_2021-12-18_18-38-06.jpg

Oiled the board, put some conditioner on the body, done.

Also, learned that the "headstock" is able to be pulled out, just like this... so it can accept a wide range of nuts.
 
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I guess I still owe you a picture:

View attachment 4003673

BTW: I also wrote that in this thread. I still have some trouble with the string clamping system. In the instruction videos Ned was demonstrating the quick and easy string change procedure. It looks quite easy when he does it but it doesn't seem to work that easy for me. 1st I ruined a fresh set of strings to find out, that the levers and screws had to be turned fully counter clock wise to properly install a new set of strings. It also doesn't seem to accept all kinds of strings. The clampining mechanism sometimes seem to damage the strings in a way that it cuts of the windings, which then cause the string to slip out of the clamping and makes them unusable.

Some clever advise ?
I'm having the same problem. The clamping mechanism is pulling the flatwound stings apart. It probably won't happen with roundwounds, but I'm playing a fretless and need to stick with flats. Have you found a solution? These strings are expensive and I can't seem to get a set installed without breaking 2-3 strings.
 
I'm having the same problem. The clamping mechanism is pulling the flatwound stings apart. It probably won't happen with roundwounds, but I'm playing a fretless and need to stick with flats. Have you found a solution? These strings are expensive and I can't seem to get a set installed without breaking 2-3 strings.
I noticed the silk on my nylon strings gets shredded more and more every time I take the strings out, but the obvious solution is to use different strings...

Nature of the best, I assume. Still love it, string changes are super quick.
@TheBass pinging you too since you had a similar issue to Mike
 
I'm having the same problem. The clamping mechanism is pulling the flatwound stings apart. It probably won't happen with roundwounds, but I'm playing a fretless and need to stick with flats. Have you found a solution? These strings are expensive and I can't seem to get a set installed without breaking 2-3 strings.

I use these on my fretless NS and haven't been breaking them. Maybe you just need to try long scale and see if that changes your luck.
ECB815 Chromes Bass 5String | Bass Guitar Strings | D'Addario
 
Thank you....I'll try those. I think I have a set available. I use those on other basses, and wanted something different on this bass. The strings that I used were long scale sets and strings broke on each. Tape wounds and Low Tension flats. If I do have the Chromes, I'll do that right away. Thanks again.
Mike
 
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I noticed the silk on my nylon strings gets shredded more and more every time I take the strings out, but the obvious solution is to use different strings...

Nature of the best, I assume. Still love it, string changes are super quick.
@TheBass pinging you too since you had a similar issue to Mike

Thank you. I'm on it right now. I had already tried 2 different kinds of flats, with the same results. I was afraid that it would happen with all flats. It has been an expensive experiment so far, but now that I know better, I'll find ones that work & stick to them. It has been an expensive experiment so far.
Thanks again.
Mike
 
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Thank you. I'm on it right now. I had already tried 2 different kinds of flats, with the same results. I was afraid that it would happen with all flats. It has been an expensive experiment so far, but now that I know better, I'll find ones that work & stick to them. It has been an expensive experiment so far.
Thanks again.
Mike
Can you say in what way did the strings break on you? Did the clamp literally cut your strings or was it something else?
 
Can you say in what way did the strings break on you? Did the clamp literally cut your strings or was it something else?

Yes, it cut the wrap and then broke strands inside the wrap. It then would just unwind remaining strands until the tuner bottomed out. I just tried a set of D'Addario Chromes and the same thing happened. These are all long scale sets. This 5 string is a 35" scale, The 4 string & 6 string basses are 34" scale. I'm going to get an extra long scale set. I think those will work in this bass.
 
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Yes, it cut the wrap and then broke strands inside the wrap. It then would just unwind remaining strands until the tuner bottomed out. I just tried a set of D'Addario Chromes and the same thing happened. These are all long scale sets. This 5 string is a 35" scale, The 4 string & 6 string basses are 34" scale. I'm going to get an extra long scale set. I think those will work in this bass.
That is really odd. My CR5 got to me with stainless steel strings and I exchanged them for a nylon tapes from Daddario, no issues beyond the silk unwrapping with repeated taking out of the strings.
These ones, and they are long scale.
https://www.thomann.de/se/daddario_etb925_bk_nylon_strings_set.htm

Did you maybe tune too much and that put too much pressure on the strings and destroyed them? My CR5 is in standard tuning, don't know about you :)
 
That is really odd. My CR5 got to me with stainless steel strings and I exchanged them for a nylon tapes from Daddario, no issues beyond the silk unwrapping with repeated taking out of the strings.
These ones, and they are long scale.
https://www.thomann.de/se/daddario_etb925_bk_nylon_strings_set.htm

Did you maybe tune too much and that put too much pressure on the strings and destroyed them? My CR5 is in standard tuning, don't know about you :)
Standard tuning. I recently bought this used. You are probable right that the strings may have been removed too many times. I already ordered extra long Chromes, so I'll wait to try those before getting another set of tapewounds. Thanks for your ideas and advice.
 
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I'm having the same problem. The clamping mechanism is pulling the flatwound stings apart. It probably won't happen with roundwounds, but I'm playing a fretless and need to stick with flats. Have you found a solution? These strings are expensive and I can't seem to get a set installed without breaking 2-3 strings.
As I mentioned earlier in this thread the solution was to contact NS design directly with this issue. Their customer service was very helpful and made me aware of a later bridge design change which completely fixed this issue. They sent an exchange bridge free of charge from their plant in Chechia. Installing the new bridge was a 10min change with just a phillips screw driver required. Everything works perfectly since then.

But it's also important to follow the string change procedure precisely. Make sure to completely release the string clamp and pull the string tight when clamping it again or installing a fresh string. Otherwise it might not grip the string completely and slip when tuning up. With the improved bridge it perfectly holds the string tuning even for several months.
 
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As I mentioned earlier in this thread the solution was to contact NS design directly with this issue. Their customer service was very helpful and made me aware of a later bridge design change which completely fixed this issue. They sent an exchange bridge free of charge from their plant in Chechia. Installing the new bridge was a 10min change with just a phillips screw driver required. Everything works perfectly since then.

But it's also important to follow the string change procedure precisely. Make sure to completely release the string clamp and pull the string tight when clamping it again or installing a fresh string. Otherwise it might not grip the string completely and slip when tuning up. With the improved bridge it perfectly holds the string tuning even for several months.

I hadn't seen your earlier post, so thanks a lot for getting me caught up. I'll approach that avenue. I guess they should be qualified to offer a solution.
Thank you,
Mike
 
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Anyone interested in an NS Design club?

Here are mine:
View attachment 3803737
I began with the NXT upright. It was on consignment at the Seattle Bass Shop. I had never played one (or even played much upright) but I was so taken by it, that I brought it home. It almost immediately became my primary bass, for both the classic-rock/Americana band I was in and my own original band.

I was so pleased with the NXT that I began wondering about the Radius basses. I had a difficult time finding one to try out, but eventually a used one appeared at a local Guitar Center. I tried it and loved the way it felt and played and sounded. I loved the sound of the WAV Radius' single EMG pickup blended with the piezo. I hadn't played a headless bass since the 80's but it felt really normal. So I bought it. That's the white WAV, which I recently added a custom pickguard to:
View attachment 3803742

I was so pleased with the WAV Radius that I sold my Fender basses and bought a CR Radius (the natural finish one in the photo). I've owned various boutique basses in the past (Alembic, Pedulla, Wal, Modulus, etc.) and the CR is that same level of build quality.

I love all three. Live, I've mostly used the NXT upright. I took the WAV to a blues jam and it did great. Coronavirus has scuttled any opportunities to get out more with the WAV and the CR, but I've been playing them a lot in my practice room. I can't recall the last time I had to tune either one. Neither has a dead spot on the neck that I've been able to discern. I like the tonal differences between them: the WAV has a wonderful deep and punchy sound, while the addition of the bridge pickup on the CR gives it more of a cutting sound. The difference is almost analogous to a Precision vs. a Jazz (which is not to say that they sound like a Precision and a Jazz). I've long heard EMG pickups described as not being warm, but I find them to be warm and clear and expressive and very responsive to different types of finger attack. Between these three basses I get a wide palette of tonal options. All three still have the original strings on them.

I've thought about a CR fretless, but I really love my Rob Allen (the lone survivor of my bass purge). If I had the money I'd ask NS Design to make me a custom CR-version of the WAV bass; in other words a single pickup and piezo, but with nice wood.

Any other NS Design players out there?
 

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