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Nut filing question

Just picked up a used Squier Vintage Modified Jazz bass. Very nice bass for a very nice price.

Needs a setup, which I can mostly take care of. Already tweaked the truss rod and lowered the saddles. Better already.

But the string height at the nut is ridiculously high. Like almost twice as high as necessary.

I recall from many years ago, a cheap-and-cheerful method of slot filing is to run a string back and forth through the slot, acting as the file.

This sound possible, or am I imagining it?

I would prefer to not spend the dough on a file set. I'd take it to a tech first
 
Just picked up a used Squier Vintage Modified Jazz bass. Very nice bass for a very nice price.

Needs a setup, which I can mostly take care of. Already tweaked the truss rod and lowered the saddles. Better already.

But the string height at the nut is ridiculously high. Like almost twice as high as necessary.

I recall from many years ago, a cheap-and-cheerful method of slot filing is to run a string back and forth through the slot, acting as the file.

This sound possible, or am I imagining it?

I would prefer to not spend the dough on a file set. I'd take it to a tech first
It really doesn't work. You need fret files. Which you can buy from guitar center for 15 bucks a size.

Sand paper could work. But, your chances of staying consistent are very low.
 
If it’s super high all around and you can remove it without breaking it, I have sanded the bottom side down to get the desired height and had good results. It’s a lot easier than filing every slot.
This ^ all things being equal. I think those nuts are flat bottom. You may need to score around the edge of the nut with an exacto knife first if it's lacquer to help prevent any chipping then run it flat over a piece sandpaper. :thumbsup:
 
I'll remove a nut and shim if the slots are over-cut. If sanding the bottom, you'll still need to tweak / re-cut each individual slot once re-installed to get things in spec. No need to remove & re-install when all that's required is a few extra swipes of the file with frequent re-checks. I'd be hard-pressed to "break" an intact glue joint unless absolutely necessary.

Riis
 
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If it’s super high all around and you can remove it without breaking it, I have sanded the bottom side down to get the desired height and had good results. It’s a lot easier than filing every slot.
This I have done. But not with an existing nut.

I bought a fretless neck which came with no nut. Purchased a nut and fitted it, doing exactly as described.

I'm hesitant with this bass because of the lacquered neck. But I'm going to explore that possibility later.

Thanks.
 
I recall from many years ago, a cheap-and-cheerful method of slot filing is to run a string back and forth through the slot, acting as the file.

This sound possible, or am I imagining it?
That's akin to trying to cut a plank with a butter knife. A sharp tool would be far more effective

I would prefer to not spend the dough on a file set. I'd take it to a tech first
Taking it to a tech is a far better choice. If you do it yourself and mess up, it's on you. If he messes up, it's on him to fix it. And nut work is tricky - one too many passes with a file and you go from "almost there" to "ruined".
 
Strings are not files, if you need to file the nut, you need files to do the job. If you have some square corners or flat nut slots, you could use a round wound string to soften the hard edges a bit. For the job you're describing, you're going to need files and feeler guages.
 
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IF you have a set of auto feeler gages around the house: A good all-round value is .020" between the bottom of each string and the top of the first fret. Lower, it can rattle, higher, you work harder and go out of tune.

I would not macGyver this job using strings as a rasp. If it's off, as @Turnaround suggests, take it to a real, professional, experienced tech.

Any smart player needs to establish a relationship with THE guy in your area, as from time to time, things can go South on an axe that's outside our skill set. Pay the man what he charges for the luxury of having it seen to by someone who knows his business and if you have the right attitude, these guys can show you a few things that can make a huge difference.

I can understand that not everyone who does guitar repair is first-class, but I never understand guys moaning about what they got to pay for a real pro to see after their axes, ESPECIALLY gigging musicians: What you really can't afford is for your axe to go South . . . . in the middle of the gig. Got to respect your tools.
 
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