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Nut height question

U

umefie

Dec 28, 2022
85
45
#1
Hello, I recently measured my bass nut height by using a capo at the 3rd fret and putting a feeler gauge on the 1st fret. My E string can fit a 0.010 inch feeler gauge in there. I know that there should be like only like 0.003inch.

does anyone know how much better is the 0.003inch compared to mine? like is it drastic or is it just subtle.

I also heard that nut height actually affects intonation but in my bass the tuning is fine between open string and 12th fret.

thoughts?
 
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#2
The right way to measure the nut height is to fret the first fret and measure the gap between the second fret and the string. That is the correct height for the gap between the open string and the first fret. Add .002” to .003” to allow for wear of the nut.

Intonation at the 12 th fret won’t be affected by a nut that’s too high, but intonation at the first fret will.
 
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#3
umefie said:
Hello, I recently measured my bass nut height by using a capo at the 3rd fret and putting a feeler gauge on the 1st fret. My E string can fit a 0.010 inch feeler gauge in there. I know that there should be like only like 0.003inch.

does anyone know how much better is the 0.003inch compared to mine? like is it drastic or is it just subtle.

I also heard that nut height actually affects intonation but in my bass the tuning is fine between open string and 12th fret.

thoughts?
Click to expand...

Re-set your witness points and re-measure. Any difference or improvement?

As Turnaround pointed out, it can affect intonation at the first few frets. I use your 3rd fret method as it's easily reproducible and essentially removes the balance of your set-up from the equation. I aim for .005" which is on the high-end.

Riis
 
#4
Turnaround said:
The right way to measure the nut height is to fret the first fret and measure the gap between the second fret and the string. That is the correct height for the gap between the open string and the first fret. Add .002” to .003” to allow for wear of the nut.

Intonation at the 12th fret won’t be affected by a nut that’s too high, but intonation at the first fret will.
Click to expand...

That won't do anything. The nut could be 1/4" high in your scenario but the second fret measurement could still be "in spec"
 
#7
umefie said:
...
does anyone know how much better is the 0.003inch compared to mine? like is it drastic or is it just subtle.
...
Click to expand...

Intonation aside for the moment, IME getting the nut height right is probably the single most effective way of improving the playability and feel of any stringed isntrument including electric bass, and is the single most common flaw in 99% of the instruments you pick up off the shelf.

As for intonation, the benefits of nut compensation such as Buzz-Feiten have been debated at length in other threads. My own opinion/experience is that such systems are only needed if the cut height of the nut is wrong to being with - others will disagree so you will have to red teh agruments and make your own mind up. For me I want my first position to feel just like all the others, at which point all significant intonation issues go away and absolute measurements/specifications become worthless due to the interaction with other aspects of the setup.
 
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#8
SteveCS said:
Intonation aside for the moment, IME getting the nut height right is probably the single most effective way of improving the playability and feel of any stringed isntrument including electric bass, and is the single most common flaw in 99% of the instruments you pick up off the shelf.

As for intonation, the benefits of nut compensation such as Buzz-Feiten have been debated at length in other threads. My own opinion/experience is that such systems are only needed if the cut height of the nut is wrong to being with - others will disagree so you will have to red teh agruments and make your own mind up. For me I want my first position to feel just like all the others, at which point all significant intonation issues go away and absolute measurements/specifications become worthless due to the interaction with other aspects of the setup.
Click to expand...
Yeah, my Yamaha is a mile high. Every Yamaha guitar/bass has been like that.
 
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#12
TheArchitect said:
Yeah, my Yamaha is a mile high. Every Yamaha guitar/bass has been like that.
Click to expand...

Can't say the same for my 1988 Yamaha MSG Deluxe - the whole thing is height adjustable:
20201209_160947.jpg
 
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#16
Matt Liebenau said:
Very nice. I’m a sucker for those old Yamaha guitars and basses.
Click to expand...

They are great. I am fortunate in that I know the full history of this one - it was purchased new by a friend who, unbeknown to me, sold it to my father in the early '90s who then passed it on to me a year or so ago when he was trying to de-clutter. Not only that, the designer Martyn Booth (hence MSG - Martyn Booth Guitar in the UK but named 'Image' across the rest of the world) only lives up the road from me so was able to fill in all the gaps.
 
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#17
I agree with some posts above. The playability at the first fret improves dramatically and more obvious than intonation. However, I would advise against filing the slots unless you level of handyman is pretty high. It might be easier to sand off the bottom of the nut if it is straight bottom, but even that can produce very poor results.
 
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#18
kgbeast said:
I agree with some posts above. The playability at the first fret improves dramatically and more obvious than intonation. However, I would advise against filing the slots unless you level of handyman is pretty high. It might be easier to sand off the bottom of the nut if it is straight bottom, but even that can produce very poor results.
Click to expand...

I have a problem with knocking apart intact structures as a work-around. A few skilled, well-aimed swipes of a nut file(s) will work wonders.

Riis
 
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#19
kgbeast said:
I agree with some posts above. The playability at the first fret improves dramatically and more obvious than intonation. However, I would advise against filing the slots unless you level of handyman is pretty high. It might be easier to sand off the bottom of the nut if it is straight bottom, but even that can produce very poor results.
Click to expand...
I don't agree. Taking the nut off introduces a lot more things that need to be addressed and monitored to shave the nut and keep the bottom flat and square and then properly locate and secure it. Its also much more difficult to check your progress and does not account for the fact that different slots can be off different amounts. Lowering a nut slot is just not that difficult of a task to go to all that additional effort
 
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#20
I've taken the nut slots down on every bass I've ever owned, some much more than others. This includes Smith and Fbass, two manufacturers who I believe pay more attention to setup/nut height than nearly anyone else.

If you file slots, be sure to angle the slot away from the witness point at the edge of the fretboard, with a steep enough "fall" so that the string contacts the nut at the witness point only, like in the image below:

imgext.png
 
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