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Nut height question

FWIW, having a height-adjustable nut is pretty well pointless. Since there is only one nut height that is optimum regardless of string size, playing style or anything else, having the nut adjustable just means there is one more thing to go out of adjustment. Use a good quality nut material, cut it right once and it is good pretty well for the life of the instrument, unless damaged.
 
FWIW, having a height-adjustable nut is pretty well pointless. Since there is only one nut height that is optimum regardless of string size, playing style or anything else, having the nut adjustable just means there is one more thing to go out of adjustment. Use a good quality nut material, cut it right once and it is good pretty well for the life of the instrument, unless damaged.

One problem I encountered with the original Adjust-a-Nut (chiropractic manipulation at the asylum?) is the individual threaded saddles have no slope...they can't. Best you can do is rough it in on the slightly high side, wick-in some locktite, then run a course with file.

Here's one of the better examples I pulled from my Fernandes...it smacks strongly of the Warwick series II. The slots are cut correctly (depth / slope / width) for the host bass but spacing is waaaaay too tight. The assembly sits on 2 adjustable grub screw "stilts". Once installed and adjusted, all 5 slots are within spec without need for tweaks.

NutFernandes.jpg

Riis
 
FWIW, having a height-adjustable nut is pretty well pointless.
...

I have three instruments with adjustable nuts (the Yamaha MSG posted above, a 1990 Chapman Stick and a 2008 Warwick Corvette), and I'm inclined to agree...

One problem I encountered with the original Adjust-a-Nut (chiropractic manipulation at the asylum?) is the individual threaded saddles have no slope...they can't.
...

Yes, the original machine-screw version is problematic. Not only because the slots are parallel to the string line in all axes, but because the adjustments are discrete, not continuous - you can only adjust in increments of half the thread pitch. It is the same with my Chapman Stick, which also has a similar arrangement at the bridge as well as the 'nut'. A break angle is achieved at the bridge by sloping the screws back a few degrees, but it is minimal. The 'Just-a-Nut II' solves the problem and is more akin to your Fernandes example. The problem now is that the outer strings are creating a bending moment in the nut, with the stilt acting as fulcrum. This looks even more pronounced on your 5-string example. I wonder to what extent any resonance in that floating section, which is essentially a cantilever beam, might affect the tone/timbre/sustain of the open strings?
 
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. The problem now is that the outer strings are creating a bending moment in the nut, with the stilt acting as fulcrum. This looks even more pronounced on your 5-string example. I wonder to what extent any resonance in that floating section, which is essentially a cantilever beam, might affect the tone/timbre/sustain of the open strings?

It would appear so on paper but, surprisingly, did not pose any issues or inconsistencies while in play. I believe the beam is anodized aluminum. Then again, a typical bridge saddle sits on stilts with the afterlength more firmly anchored at the ball end...I need to think about this. I had it replaced with a very nice unbleached bone nut, though. As mentioned, the spacing is off including the center-to-center compensations / variances we find desirable.

Riis
 
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