okay so i bought this barely played 2001 squier p-bass from a buddy of mine. the action is ridiculously high from disuse, so i went to adjust the truss rod; the nut turns, but the neck doesn't tighten. is there something i can do, or a luthier to do, or should i just scrap it and get a new neck?
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nut not turning
- Thread starter D_Swags001
- Start date
Can you loosen the nut ? if that's the case, you might be at
the end of the threaded portion of the rod-
you could possibly shim the nut with several #10 washers
to allow you to tension the neck....
the end of the threaded portion of the rod-
you could possibly shim the nut with several #10 washers
to allow you to tension the neck....
Every response you received has been valuable and (IMO) right on the money economically (bad pun).
Realistically, you have a decade old economy instrument; therefore replacing the neck may be a realistic solution as a "beater" may be available at a very low cost.
IF you have given the neck time to adjust and no changes have been seen [I agree] that the rod may have been unseated. One of the reasons why the suggestion for 1/4 turns be made for neck adjustment is made by many manufacturers is the [relative] ease in which the rod may be damaged.
Using spacers (washers) might be productive. Remember to plan for any alterations in extra space for even very small washers. However I would take the neck off and very carefully see if you are getting any "bite" when the rod is turned CAREFULLY.
When you do this place your ear to the wood and LISTEN for a free spin. IF you hear the rod turning free within - you should plan on getting another neck, etc.
Here are some links to help you visualize.....
http://www.lmii.com/carttwo/Secondproducthead.asp?CategoryName=Truss+Rods/Neck+Parts
Look at the Warmoth rod as an example or round "glue-in" rods:
Invalid Link Removed
Notice "square-end" rods:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Here, if the wood does not provide firm purchase, the rod will unseat (spin). Some rods have "ears", some have square threaded joiners, some are round completely. Since the economy guitar influx, you may not know exactly what was used even with a "Fender Guide"; as the mfg of the neck would be independent from original specs & therefore can be broken [& repaired] in differing ways.
Realistically, you have a decade old economy instrument; therefore replacing the neck may be a realistic solution as a "beater" may be available at a very low cost.
IF you have given the neck time to adjust and no changes have been seen [I agree] that the rod may have been unseated. One of the reasons why the suggestion for 1/4 turns be made for neck adjustment is made by many manufacturers is the [relative] ease in which the rod may be damaged.
Using spacers (washers) might be productive. Remember to plan for any alterations in extra space for even very small washers. However I would take the neck off and very carefully see if you are getting any "bite" when the rod is turned CAREFULLY.
When you do this place your ear to the wood and LISTEN for a free spin. IF you hear the rod turning free within - you should plan on getting another neck, etc.
Here are some links to help you visualize.....
http://www.lmii.com/carttwo/Secondproducthead.asp?CategoryName=Truss+Rods/Neck+Parts
Look at the Warmoth rod as an example or round "glue-in" rods:
Invalid Link Removed
Notice "square-end" rods:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Here, if the wood does not provide firm purchase, the rod will unseat (spin). Some rods have "ears", some have square threaded joiners, some are round completely. Since the economy guitar influx, you may not know exactly what was used even with a "Fender Guide"; as the mfg of the neck would be independent from original specs & therefore can be broken [& repaired] in differing ways.
Also just to throw another idea out there for you.
Sometimes if you remove the strings and clamp the neck into a straight position and then tighten the rod you will find that it holds it's adjustment.
It doesn't always work but it's worth a try imo.
Sometimes if you remove the strings and clamp the neck into a straight position and then tighten the rod you will find that it holds it's adjustment.
It doesn't always work but it's worth a try imo.
an extra $.02 ...
if you're lucky , the nut is brass or potmetal - and just stripped.
have you tried to remove the nut and inspect it?
if the rod is spinning in the pocket.......hmm...
i can suggest an approach i'd take....
- drill a 3/16" hole into the pocket where the rod resides,
at the oppoisite end of the nut and inject some epoxy
with a syringe- bass trusses are typically 24" long, so
something like 22"-23" is where i'd inject.
let it set for at least 24-48 hours , then try to turn it.
if you got enough into the groove- it won't turn.
if it works , you can plug the hole with a maple 3/16 dowel
plug , elmer's glue and sawdust....or whatever.
if it doesn't fix it .... you've a handy maple club .
if you're lucky , the nut is brass or potmetal - and just stripped.
have you tried to remove the nut and inspect it?
if the rod is spinning in the pocket.......hmm...
i can suggest an approach i'd take....
- drill a 3/16" hole into the pocket where the rod resides,
at the oppoisite end of the nut and inject some epoxy
with a syringe- bass trusses are typically 24" long, so
something like 22"-23" is where i'd inject.
let it set for at least 24-48 hours , then try to turn it.
if you got enough into the groove- it won't turn.
if it works , you can plug the hole with a maple 3/16 dowel
plug , elmer's glue and sawdust....or whatever.
if it doesn't fix it .... you've a handy maple club .
- Jul 11, 2006
- 433
- 12
- Disclosures
- Tech Director, dBm Pro Audio Services, New York
The OP's first post suggests that the truss rod nut is turning rather freely and doing nothing. Depending on the "feel" of this, you can roughly ascertain what is going on. If the nut is relatively loose, it is probably stripped. If it's tough to turn, it could be a truss rod break far down the neck, as you would be trying to turn the rod in the curved channel, assuming they are using a traditional rod and not one that is set into a metal channel, which is popular on import guitars.
I agree that it sometimes takes time for a truss rod to show it's COMPLETE effect, but you should see SOME effect on relief immediately. This is precisely why I tend to set up with a bit more relief than I would like, and why I tell my clients to come back for an adjustment if the guitar starts to fret out.
I agree that it sometimes takes time for a truss rod to show it's COMPLETE effect, but you should see SOME effect on relief immediately. This is precisely why I tend to set up with a bit more relief than I would like, and why I tell my clients to come back for an adjustment if the guitar starts to fret out.
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