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Official Ampeg Club!: Part II

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Just had to, my V4-B may be going to a new home soon. The cab stays and man do I need to clean it!
 
Give that user a cigar! I bought an Ampeg 1/2 cab that was butchered and never really worked well so I removed the Acoustic badge and transfered the Ampeg logo. First person in over 25 years to notice, I think is was the 107 though, have to see if I can find that logo strip. The D140's were to lazy for me so I loaded it with Altec 421-A's. :)
 
... First person in over 25 years to notice...

Aw shucks....

The D140's were to lazy for me so I loaded it with Altec 421-A's. :)

The domes do have an Altec-ish sheen to them. I've always been an ElectroVoice SRO/EVM guy so the only way I could tell JBLs and Altecs apart was by the color of the dust cap. JBLs are more aluminum looking and Altecs almost look like they're nickel.
 
Hey guys. I guess I'll join. Currently rocking two American made SVT 410 HE's with a Peavey Vb-2 driving the monster. I'm pretty satisfied with my stack, but I've been toying around with the idea of adding a SVT 15E, does anyone have any comments on that setup?
 

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Aw shucks....



The domes do have an Altec-ish sheen to them. I've always been an ElectroVoice SRO/EVM guy so the only way I could tell JBLs and Altecs apart was by the color of the dust cap. JBLs are more aluminum looking and Altecs almost look like they're nickel.

Those are Walden recones (16 ohm), not a kit I would recommend. They were okay for a decade but are due for some real upgrades to a cone closer to original. Have a pair of EV's in TL606's I used to add for a 415 setup, they see PA use now though.
 
Here's my beat up Ampeg! Wouldn't get rid of it for all the money in the world. Best sounding Cab i've ever owned!!! Only thing I would concider is trading this 8 ohm cab for a 4 ohm, same model. Anyone interested hit me up.
 

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IMG_1791.jpgHope this gets me in the club

I have a question. My SVT350H has been acting up for the last few years and I have had it repaird more times than I would like to admit. I want to cut my losses and invest into a SVT450H but am reading some scarry things on the net and on this sit about the future of Ampeg. Cust service, product quality and reliabilty all come into question. What advice would you have for me on this subject? I have loved my Ampeg gear in the past and really dont want to switch amp brands but am a little concerned. Here is a recent reply to a post I submitted regarding Ampeg and Markbass.

"Hi mberlin74.

Ampeg's current parent company, LOUD Technologies, is in deep trouble. (You can read about it here. http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=507462) If one bought a new 'peg to-day, one may have trouble getting it repaired to-morrow.

In addition, the consensus here on TalkBass is that quality control in the manufacture of newer Ampeg bass amps has lapsed somewhat.

In contrast, Markbass' prospects appear to be quite bright. I expect that Markies will continue to thrive in the bass amp marketplace.

If you have your heart & ears set on getting an Ampeg amp, then buying an older U.S. made 'peg would be worth looking at.

You can ask these folks about this: 'Official Ampeg Club!'
__________________
 
... My SVT350H has been acting up for the last few years and I have had it repaird more times than I would like to admit. ...

What has your SVT350H been doing that it shouldn't (or not doing that it should)?

In the Rigs of Doom thread (I think) there is a photo of an Ampeg rig where SVT3 Pro amps have been installed in Ampeg head cabinets. It's a relatively recent post. What I'm getting at is that you seem to like the look of the Ampeg head (who could argue with that?) and seeing a 2 Space rack mounted head mounted in a traditional head cabinet, that opens up a whole world of possibilities.
 
The head once turned on will take anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes to actually fire up so it can be used. I have been told by a few people including Gerald Tiers (spelled wrong) that it's solder points on the board that are breaking down and losing connection with whatever it's soldered to. The time it takes for the board to get warm and expand (thus re establishing contact) is the time it takes for me to be able to use the head. I keep taking it in and have them find any points that are having problems and get them re soldered. Ampeg is not interested in helping me with this at all!!!
 
The head once turned on will take anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes to actually fire up so it can be used. I have been told by a few people including Gerald Tiers (spelled wrong) that it's solder points on the board that are breaking down and losing connection with whatever it's soldered to. The time it takes for the board to get warm and expand (thus re establishing contact) is the time it takes for me to be able to use the head. I keep taking it in and have them find any points that are having problems and get them re soldered. Ampeg is not interested in helping me with this at all!!!

Hmmm...seems like it would take quite a while for the amp to heat up if it won't operate (and generate heat) in the first place. I wonder why the tech doesn't just touch up every solder joint in the amp...seems that it would take less time to do that than to keep tearing the amp apart to find one or two.

Does the relay click in pretty quickly or does it take a long time too?
 
The relay click takes about 5 to 10 minutes to sound off.

That sure seems to narrow it down... I'm not an amp tech, but it would appear that the problem is somewhere between the secondary of the power transformer and the relay coil. There is a timing circuit that delays the closing of the relay contacts until after the filter capacitors in the power supply are charged (avoiding a huge power thump (like an Acoustic or SWR amp)). Perhaps a bad solder connection (or faulty component) in the timer circuit is causing the relay to take a very long time to do its thing.

I believe that I have a schematic for the B2R/SVT350H somewhere...I'll try to dig it out and take a look.
 
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