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Official ATK Club

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Just got a 96 ATK100, can i join too? I realize the 100 series isn't quite as elite as the others but for $82 bucks i ain't complaining. Will post pics if neccasary. cruzerjd

Let me know if you ever want to sell it. I normally prefer passive basses, especially for recording, so I've been on the lookout for a 100. Welcome to the group and I hope you like your ATK... and what's not to like for a paltry $82?
 
There is my ATK300. I love that bass guitar.

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What's the specific beef about the preamp?

Just curious. I've certainly heard worse...not that I'm a fan of active basses in the first place.

Or are you referring to an earlier model? I'm lost here, I think. :rolleyes:

Maybe I'm just not a big fan either, but to me it just muffled the sound of my new pickup. The guy that made it said it runs a bit noisily and the EQ isn't very well voiced, both things I can say are right in retrospect, I'm much happier now I'm running mine passive anyway. I'm still interested in an East preamp though.

If I get one that'll mean I've spent £510 on a bass that cost £300 though, although I still regard it as a bit of a steal, it's the nicest one I've played out of the other 3 and it's built very solidly and should have cost a good £450 new anyway, money aside I think it's worth it anyway.
 
htharp - 113

yeah man we are very active here!

Also, a heads up. i have 2 ATKs, and I think due to tough money times, I might be putting up my 95' ATK 305 natural. its literally the first bass posted in this club. Im not quite sure yet, but I figured i would let my ATK brethren know first. stay posted, thanks guys
 
This is my old ATK 100. The frets were in poor condition when i bought it, so i took them out. I've played this a lot, and it still is my favorite, no question.
 

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I've had my ATK3EX1 for about 5 days now. I've put new strings on it, set it up, and played it each day as it settled in. Thus far I really like the tones I can achieve. I was worried about weight when I bought it and had it shipped, I must be lucky because it weighs 8.9 pounds.

During the setup I had to set the neck relief, it was a tad too much. The adjustment wheel has to be tightened very tight to get it to the proper level. I removed the neck, lubed the threads, and reinstalled it. I was able to get the relief correct, but had to apply significant force to a 2-1/2" rod inserted in the wheel. While it still continues to correct the relief, I would be afraid to tighten it much more. Is this common with these, or do I have to look forward to future neck problems?
 
The adjustment wheel has to be tightened very tight to get it to the proper level. I removed the neck, lubed the threads, and reinstalled it. I was able to get the relief correct, but had to apply significant force to a 2-1/2" rod inserted in the wheel. While it still continues to correct the relief, I would be afraid to tighten it much more. Is this common with these, or do I have to look forward to future neck problems?
My rules for neck adjustment:

Loosen the nut before you tighten it to break loose any surface sticking on the bearing surfaces.

Slacken the strings prior to tightening a stiffer neck.

If the neck's still stiff, do it like a pro and backload it.

The laminated ATK necks are both stiff and climatically unstable, which means they require a lot of fiddling with. Use caution and don't fight them.
 
I'm sorry if this has been asked before, but is it possible to rewire my 1998 ATK 300 so that I can use a pull-push pot to switch between active and passive (ie go around the pre-amp)?

And if so, can anyone hook me up with a wiring diagram?

It's unlikely that you wouldn't be able to wire that, no idea how but I can't think of any reason you couldn't add a bypass of the preamp. I assume your using a newer ATK (not a 90s one) with the modular pre so you can replace an individual pot/knob?
 
It's unlikely that you wouldn't be able to wire that, no idea how but I can't think of any reason you couldn't add a bypass of the preamp. I assume your using a newer ATK (not a 90s one) with the modular pre so you can replace an individual pot/knob?

I think in 1998 they would still be using the pre with the pots soldered onto it. It would not be totally un-doable to replace the pot with a push-pull but it would be tricky as hell. There are more blades on the push-pull pot and you're fighting with a static pot configuration in relation to the EQ PCB. If I did it, something else would break in the process, possibly my brain! :atoz:

You could replace the pre and pots with a set from the re-released ATK which has detached, floating pots, like SwamiRob is talking about. This would make it relatively easy to wire a second passive circuit and incorporate a push-pull pot.
 
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