• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

"Oh you can just 'Buff that right out'"

Lardass5000

Lardass5000

Informed that my opinions are incorrect
Mar 21, 2016
1,208
1,896
56
Deep South
#1
Well I dont know how many times I have heard that phrase.

Now I may need some actual advice. Cuz its one thing ive never attempted.
Not sure to what extent these 'magic buffing powers' actually exist.

Do i rent one? Which one? Do i use buffing compound?

I have a early 80s polyester gloss finish on top of black piano laquer. The damage is borderline. Not enough to send it to a painting pro. But enough to be ugly. Lots of scuffs and scrapes. No dents or gouges.

Any insight?
Thanks
 
#2
I know I could get it repainted but not worth the time or money.
Probly gonna keep it for myself. Maybe just stuck with an ugly duckling vintage bass. Basswood underneath; so strip n stain or natural finishes not an option.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JRA
#4
If the damage is limited to the clear layer, yes, it's possible. If the damage extends down to the color coat, you won't buff it out without causing additional problems. You might be able to improve the overall appearance by removing smaller scratches and softening the edges of deeper ones, but if you try to buff one out that goes deep, you'll hit primer, old color if any, sanding sealer and wood. And while you may polish those various layers up, that's probably not what you are going for unless it's some sort of relic job you're trying to do.

Buffing is basically a fine abrasive process which will smooth and polish damaged clear coat.

Fairly normal to need several steps, each of which will need its own buff as well as the object needing to be cleaned between steps so that the coarser materials are not hanging around to mix with the finer ones.

My primary experience with buffing is with the Beall system on turned objects, not guitars, so you should await (or search for...) more guitar-applicable advice here. There is some to find if you search.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Lardass5000 and shodan
#6
"That will buff right out" has become a bit of an internet meme/joke, usually applied to some horrific finish damage. As said above, it depends how deep the damage goes. For dings that go down to color coat, you will have to drop-fill somehow. I haven't tried it yet, but the Gluboost system of tinted CA glue drop fill looks pretty promising. If its just clearcoat dmage, 1K + tutorials on YT.



 
  • Like
Reactions: Rip Van Dan, Lardass5000 and Grinderman
#12
IMG_20230324_152829671~2.jpg


Let me know how it turns out so I can get an idea about how to fix the one I scratched up too :thumbsup:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lardass5000, Engle and Gilmourisgod
#17
I highly recommend Micro Mesh pads. I repaired a very deep gouge in a poly finished Ibanez Artcore, that I thought may not be repairable using these:

micro mesh sanding pads

You use a dish of water to rinse them often as you work through the grits from coarse to fine. I ended up with a high gloss finish, and the repair is virtually impossible to see. They worked very well for me.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Lardass5000 and Dust2Dust
#18
Lardass5000 said:
WI have a early 80s polyester gloss finish on top of black piano laquer. The damage is borderline. Not enough to send it to a painting pro. But enough to be ugly. Lots of scuffs and scrapes. No dents or gouges.
Click to expand...
Buffing is like sanding: A process of removal, by rounding and removing the sharp edges in a surface (very tiny small sharp edges, like a groove left behind by a grain of sand in sandpaper) and rounding and reducing any high points. If the damage you're trying to fix has reached the lacquer, so will the buffing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lardass5000

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back