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Oil for a difficult to turn truss rod?

DuluthDank

DuluthDank

May 11, 2008
2,128
3,376
Minneapolis, MN
#1
While dropping my bass off for another reason, and I mentioned to the repair guy that the truss rod was difficult to turn, maybe he would try lubricating it for me while he's working on the bass. He said that you don't do that and there's really nothing to be done about it. But this just sounds wrong to me as I had another repair person fix a stuck truss rod for me a few years ago, I believe using some sort of lubricant. He said he'd try to take a look at it anyways, but now I'm actually nervous. Does it sound like he doesn't know what he's doing or am I completely off base?
 
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#2
DuluthDank said:
While dropping my bass off for another reason, and I mentioned to the repair guy that the truss rod was difficult to turn, maybe he would try lubricating it for me while he's working on the bass. He said that you don't do that and there's really nothing to be done about it. But this just sounds wrong to me as I had another repair person fix a stuck truss rod for me a few years ago, I believe using some sort of lubricant. He said he'd try to take a look at it anyways, but now I'm actually nervous. Does it sound like he doesn't know what he's doing or am I completely off base?
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No need to lubricate a truss-rod post installation, your new guy is right and your first person using a lubricant didn't know what he was doing. If a TR no longer turns, it's likely at the end of it's travel. This is assuming it's a single-acting single rod? (ie Fender original style). What kind of bass is it? Truss rods vary pretty widely across instruments.

Truss-rods should always be adjusted by bending or clamping the neck, then tightening or loosening the TR to adjust it. One should never adjust a TR without physically moving the neck first, as TRs are not meant to move the neck under load themselves. :thumbsup:
 
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#3
Beej said:
No need to lubricate a truss-rod post installation, your new guy is right and your first person using a lubricant didn't know what he was doing. If a TR no longer turns, it's likely at the end of it's travel. This is assuming it's a single-acting single rod? (ie Fender original style). What kind of bass is it? Truss rods vary pretty widely across instruments.

Truss-rods should always be adjusted by bending or clamping the neck, then tightening or loosening the TR to adjust it. One should never adjust a TR without physically moving the neck first, as TRs are not meant to move the neck under load themselves. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Got it, thanks. It's a Fender with a vintage style truss rod. Good to know.
 
#4
Beej said:
No need to lubricate a truss-rod post installation, your new guy is right and your first person using a lubricant didn't know what he was doing. If a TR no longer turns, it's likely at the end of it's travel. This is assuming it's a single-acting single rod? (ie Fender original style). What kind of bass is it? Truss rods vary pretty widely across instruments.

Truss-rods should always be adjusted by bending or clamping the neck, then tightening or loosening the TR to adjust it. One should never adjust a TR without physically moving the neck first, as TRs are not meant to move the neck under load themselves. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Of course your should lubricate a truss rod nut. Check Dan Erlewine's video at 1:20.



My favored lubricant is white lithium grease - just a wee dab. I should add that I don't use oil it can get into the wood and that's not good. A bit of grease will stay where you put it - oil is harder to control.
 
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#5
I'll disagree with Beej a little on this. :D On a double acting double rod system there's typically not a whole lot to do. On a single action single rod system like your fender should have it won't hurt to remove the nut and add a drop of 3 in 1 oil or antiseize on the internal threads in the nut. Having said that, it the nut won't go any tighter it's not a lubrication issue, you're either out of threads or the nut is tightened up against the wood and the next step is to start crushing the wood under the nut or washer.

He's also absolutely correct that best practice is to manipulate the neck into position then tighten the truss rod to hold it. Don't make the truss rod force the neck into position.
 
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#6
Matt Liebenau said:
He's also absolutely correct that best practice is to manipulate the neck into position then tighten the truss rod to hold it. Don't make the truss rod force the neck into position.
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If your neck and truss rod are both in good shape you don't need to bend the neck into position - the truss rod will do it. I think that whole bit about bending the neck and using the truss rod to hold it was started by Rickenbacker - and then only because their original truss rods weren't up to the task.

However, if your truss rod is not in good shape, or your neck is not in good shape, or you don't know, it's a good idea to help the truss rod. It certainly won't hurt.
 
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#7
Well hopefully the truss rod isn't on the verge of maxing out or something. I bought it used on facebook marketplace recently, so of course no return policy. Its' a 1984 Squier Jazz in amazing condition, and even has the original hard case. The neck is nice and straight, and the action and fretwork are buzz free. The feel of the neck is up there with so many of those earlier 80's MIJ Fenders, really nice and broken in. I did manage to make a small adjustment with difficulty, and as far as I can tell the neck did respond (this was actually loosening the truss rod a bit to add curve to the neck). Hopefully that's a good sign, as it's an otherwise awesome bass that I got for what I had thought was a great price.
 
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#8
Turnaround said:
If your neck and truss rod are both in good shape you don't need to bend the neck into position - the truss rod will do it. I think that whole bit about bending the neck and using the truss rod to hold it was started by Rickenbacker - and then only because their original truss rods weren't up to the task.

However, if your truss rod is not in good shape, or your neck is not in good shape, or you don't know, it's a good idea to help the truss rod. It certainly won't hurt.
Click to expand...



Yes sir, and I have my own basses that I will adjust without moving the neck and sometimes with at least partial string tension. Those are instruments I'm familiar with. With a new bass or guitar I'm more cautious, perhaps unnecessarily so. Similarly, I don't know where the OP's at with working on instruments so was giving him suggestions that have the best chances of success.
 
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#9
@Turnaround
Is there any point in lubricating a modern DA trussrod nut? The adjuster is not removable, turning it to limit of travel in either direction adds either backbow or forward bow, if you keep going it will break. Do you add any lubricant beyond the factory grease they come with? I'm just about to install a Bitteroot Guitars DA trussrod, typical blue plastic sheathed unit. I don't see any grease on the threads, but it turns smoothly. Add a little white lithium?
 
#10
Turnaround said:
Of course your should lubricate a truss rod nut. Check Dan Erlewine's video at 1:20.



My favored lubricant is white lithium grease - just a wee dab. I should add that I don't use oil it can get into the wood and that's not good. A bit of grease will stay where you put it - oil is harder to control.
Click to expand...

Lubriplate tends to turn gummy and then hard after about 20 years, as I have found in old electronic gear. I wonder how Loctite anti-seize would work long term?
 
#11
Gilmourisgod said:
@Turnaround
Is there any point in lubricating a modern DA trussrod nut? The adjuster is not removable, turning it to limit of travel in either direction adds either backbow or forward bow, if you keep going it will break. Do you add any lubricant beyond the factory grease they come with? I'm just about to install a Bitteroot Guitars DA trussrod, typical blue plastic sheathed unit. I don't see any grease on the threads, but it turns smoothly. Add a little white lithium?
Click to expand...
If you can put a dab of lithium on the threads I think it would be a good idea. Just a tiny bit.
 
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#12
I tried anti-seize a few months ago on a truss rod. I cleaned the treads first to remove anything
that was still on there. I didn't like the feel of it, like you put nothing at all on the threads.
Removed it all, cleaned the threads and put lithium grease on the rod and nut, what a difference.
Now very easy to turn, be carful with ant-seize.
 
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#13
Yep, I overstated things. :) Lubricant won't hurt, but I didn't think it would be the root of the issue in this case, assuming Fender. And I agree you can cycle a single-acting single rod Fender-style truss-rod without bending the neck into place, but it still helps reduce the work the threads have to do to move the neck thereby helping extend their life. Necessity? I agree, no. :D
 
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#14
Perhaps some.of the new synthetic gteases might be a good choice.

I found lubriplate in old turntables and tape recorder mechanisms would dry out and become so hard it would gum up the mechanisms and had to be removed by scraping, followed by cleanup with varsol, or a similar solvent.
Becuase of this, I would be hesitant to use this on something as inaccessible as a truss rod.
 
#19
Whenever threads are involved and there is any risk of seizure or rust, I will lubricate.
Single-action rod nuts, I use brake caliper grease. Not a ton, but it will last for ages.
Dual action, I'll add a little teflon or wax-based bike chain lube.
(As a former bike mechanic, I definitely err on the side of caution.)
Anything else, wax or soap helps.
 
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