I spray finger ease bi-monthly on a bass with a rosewood fretboard I bought new about 10 years ago. Never used any oils or conditioners. I don’t know how it affects the natural wood oil or water, but it still looks good to me.
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oil vs. water
- Thread starter Killed_by_Death
- Start date
I'm a bit of a hypocrite, because I roll my eyes when folks mention oiling their fretboards, but I do try to moisturize with furniture cream:
Link Removed
The local guy used it on my Ibanez Premium & that's when I inquired about what he used.
Up until then I was dead-set against using any oils or creams.
It looked like the day I'd bought it, and this was a year after.
Only downside was that it took away the woody scent that I loved so much.
At the recommendation of a luthier on the internet, I dropped a bit on some glass & waited a day for it to dry.
A large blob nearly completely dissipated, leaving a little residue that wiped right off.
Link Removed
The local guy used it on my Ibanez Premium & that's when I inquired about what he used.
Up until then I was dead-set against using any oils or creams.
It looked like the day I'd bought it, and this was a year after.
Only downside was that it took away the woody scent that I loved so much.
At the recommendation of a luthier on the internet, I dropped a bit on some glass & waited a day for it to dry.
A large blob nearly completely dissipated, leaving a little residue that wiped right off.
Turnaround
Commercial User
Oil inhibits, but does not prevent moisture migration. Oil does not feed the wood, nor does it do much good in replacing lost natural oils in the wood. And oil does nothing to help wood that has shrunken/warped because of moisture loss. These are not just my opinions - I have studied wood for more than 50 years and that is the collected wisdom of world experts over the last 200 or more years, experts whose works I have studied in depth.
So, should you oil your fretboard? Maybe. But in most cases your fretboard has been sealed, so anything you put on it is just going to sit on top of the sealer. It may look pretty, but won't do much else except wick into the fret slots and risk causing the frets to lift. If your fretboard has not been sealed (it may not look sealed, but likely is) oil may help to inhibit moisture migration. However, if the fretboard has lost moisture, it should be re-hydrated (hydration is adding water) before oiling. But don't over-hydrate - that is equally damaging.
Then the next question is "What oil should I use?" If you are looking to inhibit moisture loss, then a polymerizing oil is the best choice - linseed, Tru-Oil, gunstock oil, tung oil. But if you just want it to look pretty you can't beat mineral oil - that's why so many products made for fretboards are mostly or all mineral oil, and that includes most "lemon oil" products. They won't do much to inhibit moisture loss but they make the wood look pretty. Silicon will do the same thing, but you don't want to get silicon anywhere near your instrument (trust me).
Turnaround
Commercial User
Here's a quote from their material data safety sheet of this product concerning contact with your skin:I'm a bit of a hypocrite, because I roll my eyes when folks mention oiling their fretboards, but I do try to moisturize with furniture cream:
Link Removed
The local guy used it on my Ibanez Premium & that's when I inquired about what he used.
Up until then I was dead-set against using any oils or creams.
It looked like the day I'd bought it, and this was a year after.
Only downside was that it took away the woody scent that I loved so much.
At the recommendation of a luthier on the internet, I dropped a bit on some glass & waited a day for it to dry.
A large blob nearly completely dissipated, leaving a little residue that wiped right off.
"Rinse skin with water/shower. If skin irritation occurs: Get medical advice/attention."
So my best advice is if you use this on your bass, don't touch it. To be fair, not everyone will react adversely to contact with the product. But they recommend rinsing your skin even if you don't have a reaction. I wonder when someone will say that oven cleaner does a great job of removing gunk from fretboards.
I'm probably going back to not using anything but a damp cloth. The Guardsman used to take out my oily palm-prints from the finish, but even that doesn't work anymore. I've partially worn off the polyurethane in one spot:
Oven cleaner removes everything from the fretboard! No, really, literally everything. Frets, inlays, binding...
Turnaround
Commercial User
If it's anything like the oven cleaner I use, there's only one thing it doesn't touch - oven grease.Oven cleaner removes everything from the fretboard! No, really, literally everything. Frets, inlays, binding...
My opinion may be unpopular, but I don't think unfinished wood should be used on electric guitars or basses. Ever. *All* of my instruments have finished fretboards and finger boards, so I never have to think about putting oil on them.
Well, now that I think about it, my Ovation guitars and bass may have unfinished fretboards. I have not ever, nor will I ever, put on any oil. And I live in Phoenix. I think we have negative humidity here.
I wonder who first thought of using unfinished wood on a fretboard. They should be strung up!
Well, now that I think about it, my Ovation guitars and bass may have unfinished fretboards. I have not ever, nor will I ever, put on any oil. And I live in Phoenix. I think we have negative humidity here.
I wonder who first thought of using unfinished wood on a fretboard. They should be strung up!
^ Because it began a couple pf centuries ago with using the best quality ebony with gut strings. Like ebony, most fretboard woods are very hard wood and durable. They simply don’t require much in the way of a finish. So onward the tradition goes.
Okee Dokee
I say No Need.
I have 4 guitars (Sorry about that)
All instruments have what look to be rosewood FB's
67 Gibson ES330
71 Gibson Les Paul
87 Ovation
93 Les Paul
All of these instruments were played extensively in the 90's and early 2000's
I have had the 67 and the 71 since the early 90's
The other 2 purchased new
I haven't oiled nary a 1
No cracks, and all are in excellent condition, with the exception of some pitting on the 67, 71, and 83. The 71 recently re fretted quite well.
I did some BLO on a Tele Bass with Rosewood FB. I'll never do that again
I say No Need.
I have 4 guitars (Sorry about that)
All instruments have what look to be rosewood FB's
67 Gibson ES330
71 Gibson Les Paul
87 Ovation
93 Les Paul
All of these instruments were played extensively in the 90's and early 2000's
I have had the 67 and the 71 since the early 90's
The other 2 purchased new
I haven't oiled nary a 1
No cracks, and all are in excellent condition, with the exception of some pitting on the 67, 71, and 83. The 71 recently re fretted quite well.
I did some BLO on a Tele Bass with Rosewood FB. I'll never do that again
Based on the good condition of the fretboards on my '63 P ('72 neck) and '64 Gibson EB-0, neither of which have ever been oiled, I can answer with confidence: not needed. Both of these instruments have also been in low humidity environments the entire period, and that reinforces my judgment.
The debate continues!
Their sure are plenty of products for rosewood boards although I know a few guys who suggest bore oil (used on clarinets).
I posed this question years ago when I realized I hadn't ever touched my 60' P neck.
Most answers from folks in the know asked if it was in good shape, which it is.
The consensus was don't oil it which I haven't and all is good.
For that matter, I'm not sure what to clean it with and haven't done that either.
Their sure are plenty of products for rosewood boards although I know a few guys who suggest bore oil (used on clarinets).
I posed this question years ago when I realized I hadn't ever touched my 60' P neck.
Most answers from folks in the know asked if it was in good shape, which it is.
The consensus was don't oil it which I haven't and all is good.
For that matter, I'm not sure what to clean it with and haven't done that either.
I currently have 6 string instruments here, and have had most of them for a decade or two... never have oiled them.
I just play them a lot.
I just play them a lot.
Not for me. My maple boards are sealed already and the others are phenolic
Just remember this ----> if you oil your neck and need a repair of major type some day - it may not be repairable.
Oil keeps glues from making good joints and it can destroy an existing joint if too much is applied - or too often.
I wipe mine with 90% Isopropyl every string change to remove any gunk and fried chicken grease.
I've used "Fret Master" and "Dri-Glide" spray in the past - but I haven't used it in years.
Oil keeps glues from making good joints and it can destroy an existing joint if too much is applied - or too often.
I wipe mine with 90% Isopropyl every string change to remove any gunk and fried chicken grease.
I've used "Fret Master" and "Dri-Glide" spray in the past - but I haven't used it in years.
I'm probably going back to not using anything but a damp cloth. The Guardsman used to take out my oily palm-prints from the finish, but even that doesn't work anymore. I've partially worn off the polyurethane in one spot:
My experience with putting water on wood, even with a damp cloth, is that the grain raises, requiring sanding. I suppose if the wood is sealed that wouldn't happen, but not sure. I'd be careful. IMHO, etc. . .
here's one I did just this morning - damp, clean cloth:
I'm careful not to get any water in/on the pickups.
I'm careful not to get any water in/on the pickups.
