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Ok bass peeps here's a question for ya !!

I figure there's no reason why my bass shouldnt sound that way but something is out of Wack lol
yes, I think so.. check crossover points on the driverack...
Where those are set (and the slope/type) can have a huge impact on sub/tops rendition of bass frequencies..
Even a couple of Hz either way can make a difference.

Also, check if your bass channel on the dl32 is being heavily compressed... badly set, that can suck the life out of your bass..
 
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Where should they be set at? And the slope?
Thanks so much !
I'll check them tonight when I get to the gig and see what they are set at... I also don't use a compressor on my chennel I prefer using my smoothie compressor pedal for that ... Bass into compressor then out to the DI
yes, I think so.. check crossover points on the driverack...
Where those are set (and the slope/type) can have a huge impact on sub/tops rendition of bass frequencies..
Even a couple of Hz either way can make a difference.

Also, check if your bass channel on the dl32 is being heavily compressed... badly set, that can suck the life out of your bass..
 
I have no personal experience with the Peavy.. and I doubt the Driverack has settings for it built in..
Specs say it handles 45Hz-1500Hz (very high for sub).
It could be that the LF crossover could be set WAY above the 90-105Hz I suggested and work well with the K12's. idk for sure without trying it.
For type/slope I have tended toward 2-way LW/24 (Linkwitz-Riley/ 24db per octave) but I would check and see what the vendors recommendations are..
Check the graphic EQ settings on the driverack... I ALWAYS leave mine FLAT!! There's plenty of EQ on the mixer to adjust for most rooms.. if not, you can get weird artifacts in the FOH sound... :***:
Also, once set, you will probably need to adjust the gain levels of both HF and LF bands.. and run some music you know REAL WELL thru the PA when adjusting those gain levels.

OH, and turn off AFS please!

Per Driverack PA2 manual on crossover types available:
" [BW 6, BW 12, BW 18, BW 24, BW 30, BW 36, BW 42, BW 48, LR 12, LR 24, LR 36, LR 48]
Selects the high-pass filter type and slope rate. BW stands for Butterworth. When two Butterworth filters are summed, a 3 dB increase in level will be created at the crossover frequency. LR stands for Linkwitz-Riley. When two Linkwitz-Riley filters are summed, there is no increase in level around the crossover frequency, which makes these type of filters very popular. The numbers next to each option represent the filter slope rate in decibels per octave.
"

Sorry, if this is too technical, but you DID ask!! :)
 
I have no personal experience with the Peavy.. and I doubt the Driverack has settings for it built in..
Specs say it handles 45Hz-1500Hz (very high for sub).
It could be that the LF crossover could be set WAY above the 90-105Hz I suggested and work well with the K12's. idk for sure without trying it.
For type/slope I have tended toward 2-way LW/24 (Linkwitz-Riley/ 24db per octave) but I would check and see what the vendors recommendations are..
Check the graphic EQ settings on the driverack... I ALWAYS leave mine FLAT!! There's plenty of EQ on the mixer to adjust for most rooms.. if not, you can get weird artifacts in the FOH sound... :***:
Also, once set, you will probably need to adjust the gain levels of both HF and LF bands.. and run some music you know REAL WELL thru the PA when adjusting those gain levels.

OH, and turn off AFS please!

Per Driverack PA2 manual on crossover types available:
" [BW 6, BW 12, BW 18, BW 24, BW 30, BW 36, BW 42, BW 48, LR 12, LR 24, LR 36, LR 48]
Selects the high-pass filter type and slope rate. BW stands for Butterworth. When two Butterworth filters are summed, a 3 dB increase in level will be created at the crossover frequency. LR stands for Linkwitz-Riley. When two Linkwitz-Riley filters are summed, there is no increase in level around the crossover frequency, which makes these type of filters very popular. The numbers next to each option represent the filter slope rate in decibels per octave.
"

Sorry, if this is too technical, but you DID ask!! :)
Thanks !! I'm pretty savvy with tech stuff but this has me boggled!! I know he uses the EQ on the driverack vs the board which I totally disagree with but he's stubborn on some things ... I always prefer the board EQ and with the iPad app is right on the fly ! I'll check tonight and thanks thanks again for helping me out ... I'll update later this evening when I get there and I'll take some screen shots also
 
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If the system x-over were off, the toms and keys should also be starved in the same range as the bass channel. That all the other instruments seem to sound good in FOH would have me looking first at the bass channel.

Dbl-check that the set-up isn't running an aux-fed sub. (Yeah, I know that the Driverack suggests that subs aren't being aux fed, but that's worth verifying.) Then w/ stage amp muted and bass soloed, bypass the bass channel's DL32R effects, EQ, and dynamics for any path feeding the tops and subs. When you hear the naked signal (bass-->JDI-->Mackie-->QSC FOH), how does the bass sound? If the clean signal *doesn't* sound like your bass, switch your JDI to feed an unused channel just to test that the channel pre-amp you're using for the bass hasn't gone south. If the signal *still* sounds gutted, I'd test the JDI or just plug bass directly into the DL32R via one of the combo channels.
 
I've played many basses with this system ... Roscoes - jazz basses- MTD's- wyn - Brubaker - mayones- and they all sound as they shouldn't .. Never neen a P bass guy although they are great and time tested its not my basses I know that much ... Thank you for the reply fella every idea is always welcomed
R&B, Motown, Funk outfit huh?
Sounds like a job for a P-bass to me.
That ought a fix your sound problem.
 
i remember the DriveRack having a few different X-over slopes ... maybe that might help ... they usually have a pretty dip at the Xover point .

do you have a low filter / rumble filter / below 20hz on your channel ..?? that might help

if you have a DI before your rig ,... you can eq things separately ... do whatever you wanna hear on stage , same with FOH ... maybe you need a separate EQ Inserted on your channel to give you more control over your FOH sound ....

i ran the PA for most of my bands ... playing bass and keys , which both where rather hard to get to sound like they did on stage thru FOH !! vocals , drums , horns, guitars = fine
 
Just some conjecture...

I agree with others here. It sounds like the 18 subs may not be properly crossed over with the K12s. In addition, you might have some phasing issues between the subs and the K12s. I'd also suggest your drummer's kick drum and, perhaps, the floor toms, be high passed at ~60 Hz to provide some frequency separation between the bottom end of your bass and the kick. Things tend to get muddy in the low bass if some amount of care isn't exercised.

Where are the subs? Are you placing them apart or together? Where are they relative to the K12s? And have you verified the phasing with your bass rig to ensure all is in alignment? Specifically, you need to ensure the two bass cabs are properly phased (both wired identically to the bass amp) and that the bass is in phase with the PA. If your bass rig is loud enough to 'carry the room', it might be worth taking it out of the mix entirely.

Lastly...

Each room has its own resonance modes. You may need to adjust the PA EQ to take out the peaks. It takes a keen ear or real-time analysis to get it right.
 
True, but if I'm reading slamsinger's post #10 correctly, the bass doesn't sound good even soloed in the FOH.
I guess what I was getting at, is that the acoustics of the stage are often different than the acoustics of the room. A raised stage will often react differently with resonance than the room in general.

I know the focus has been on PA settings and crossovers, but I wanted to make sure the OP was taking the physical stage into consideration too.
 
Good advice and observations on this thread.

I keep coming back to Square One:

Bass-->DI, set flat as a pancake, or better yet pre-EQ out-->board, channel set flat as a pancake, and let's hear what you're dealing with there first. No other instruments in the mix, just bass solo. No other effects or sound processing in your signal chain, just your bass to the board Pre-EQ. If you have on-board EQ, nothing extreme. You have to determine step by step where the missing or extra freqs are coming from, and you have to get back to Square One first to diagnose it properly.

Stage volume off, walk around out front and listen.
 
Here's a shot of the bass EQ On the iPad bump in 80hz bump in 160hz bump in 800hz high rolled off a bit
image.jpeg
 
are you by any chance using a DBX Driverack on your PA? I used one of those and could never make the bass right. Huge sub lows, no mids and a ton of highs. The unit had an issue at a gig so I went back to an EQ & crossover, and BAM- my tone was back. I probably stuggled with that thing for 50-75 gigs, thinking it had "a better ear" than I did.... It never went back in the rack.
 
I dont have the knowledge base that most of these guys thats already posted , and its mentioned a couple of times already....I rolled my lows way back and my mids suddenly became well defined. I set my head to the room with and use my guitar contols to fine tune. I was having the same problem - what sounded good at practice sounded horrible at a gig until I rolled off the lows.
 
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As a few others have said, the life of your bass is in the mids, not the lows.

Since your tops seem to be able to get down into sub range, I'd suggest a 24dB LR crossover around 80-90Hz to start off. Your subs will get muddy once you start getting higher, and lower will clutter up your tops. Start there and adjust to taste. Note that when we say to cross them over at 80-90Hz, that doesn't mean run them both to that frequency. It means that frequency is where their ranges should cross and meet...for a LR filter it's a -6dB point.
 
  • To troubleshoot, run the simplest possible path from bass to mixer. (Once you get the bass's mixer channel sounding good, you can add your Smoothie back to the cahin and bring your stage amp back up.)
  • Try auditioning the bass w/ channel eq bypassed. Those channel eq boosts in post #34 essentially scoop from 200-400 Hz.
  • Also bypass the comp, gate, and any delay/reverb.
  • Looks here like you're looking at the aux sends. Is that what feeds your FOH cabs? Again, if one mixer output feeds the tops and another aux feeds the subs, check how the bass channel is balanced across those outputs on the DL32R.
Less likely:
  • Check the eq on your outputs. Also check for any global eq being applied by the Driverack. (I don't expect that global eq is creating the problems with the bass tone, b/c then you'd hear that same "starved eq" tone from other voices in the 100-400 Hz range. Your observation that the keys, kick, and toms sound good similarly suggests that the room acoustics are not the root cause here.)
 
We run our own sound ... And we are all experienced seasoned guys .. Weak meaning there's no punch to it out front .. It's almost like there's a gap between the 18's and the 12's.. Kind of hard to explain but there's def fat bottom end and highs but there's no mid definition and it's just weak above 80hz.. It thumps on the bottom but anything else is simply stale and weak out front ... How can my 2 single
12 cabs have more mid punch and articulation vs a nice front of house system??... I've tried and tried but I go out front and play a tune like earth wind and fire or ain't no stopping us now and I play the line and the notes just don't cut through its just bottom

To be honest, getting a good bass sound in a crappy acoustic environment is next to impossible. Here are some of the things I would consider:

Does the system sound good with recorded music? How does the bass sound soloed through headphones? Is the soloed sound representative of the sound through the mains? FYI, the results derived from using the Driverack's automatic calibration are not generally considered good. So if the sound coming from the mains is not at least similar to the sound in the headphones, the system is probably not set up properly.

What onboard DSP settings are being used on the K12s. If you are using outboard processing (Driverack), I would set the LF to normal and the HF to flat. I.E. avoid high boost, low boost, and the built in crossover.

What frequency is the crossover set at on the Driverack. The K12s are designed to be crossed at 100hz, so I suggest that as the starting point. Don't forget to high pass the subs so they are not trying to reproduce frequencies below their cutoff.

Are the subs and mains in phase and time aligned. Typically the subs will be acoustically behind the mains because of the phase shift that occurs throughout the crossover region. IE if the mains and subs are physically aligned, the mains have to be delayed to be acoustically in phase with the subs. Stated another way: having the voice coils of the drivers physically aligned in no way guarantees phase and time alignment of the system. If the subs and mains are not time aligned you will have reduced and uneven response around the crossover. The amount of delay required is related to the slope of the crossover and the crossover frequency. IE, in general 12 db/oct = 180 degrees of phase shift, 18 db/oct = 270 degrees of phase shift, 24 db/oct = 360 degree of phase shift, etc. These are approximate as the type of filter (IE Butterworth, Bessel, Linkwitz-Rily) also has some effect on the amount of phase shift. Keep in mind one wavelength at 100hz is about 11.25 feet or 134.04 inches

I believe the Driverack directions describe a procedure in which you input a tone at the crossover frequency, reverse the polarity of either the subs or mains, delay till you hear a null, and then flip the polarity back. The subs and mains should be equalized to be flat within their pass band before they are time aligned. After time alignment, make no further changes to the outputs of the Driverack as this introduces phase shift in the effected band only. EQ changes to the input of the drive rack is acceptable. However, I would recommend using the Driverack to get the system as close to flat as possible in a good acoustic environment such as outdoors. IMHO once the system is dialed in, the Driverack should pretty much be locked down rather than being used to equalize each venue or suppress feedback.

In addition to time aligning the mains to the subs, it often desirable to delay the acoustic centers of the subs and the mains to approximately the back line of the band.

Are the subs hyped? Most people, including many audio techs who consider themselves professionals, run the subs so hot that it turns the bass guitar to mud. Although I am a fan of running the subs off an aux, you can get really bad results with this technique if you don't know what you are doing. Basically the subs and mains should be set to have a flat frequency response. If you need more volume through the system, care must be taken to turn up both the mains and subs the exact same amount. If you just need more bass, do not push the aux; instead make an adjustment on the channel strip. The reason is because changing the relative level between the mains and subs effectively changes the crossover frequency and thus screws up the time/phase alignment of the system

How is the bass equalized in relation to the kick drum and other instruments. Kick has a lot of energy around 70hz so your boost at 80 may be competing with the kick. It's very challenging to have both a fat kick and a fat bass sound. Additionally if the guitarist has a lot of bass in his tone and/or the keyboardist is playing with a heavy left hand it will cover up the bass. Basically the audio tech needs to carve up the spectrum and allocate certain frequencies to each instrument. I tend to roll off frequencies below 100 hz on the bass and do some shaping on the upper and lower mids. I scoop a big hole out of the kick somewhere between 200 and 400 hz.

Are the none-low-frequency channels high passed? Allowing the bass frequencies to bleed through all of the open mics is a recipe for mud. The channels should be high-passed at a frequency that is appropriate for the instrument or voice assigned to it. For exampe, I tend to high pass vocals at 180 hz or higher.

As always, these are my opinions and YMMV.
 
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We use a peavey verssaray double 18 for a sub (yeah I know peavey but it's crazy good sounding ) mackie dl32 into the jbl driverack .. I'm pretty sure he's rta mic'd it and ran it to flatten it out so to say... I think the k12's aren't enough for what we do either but like I stated everything else sounds great .. Vocals - guitars - drums- we sequence all the keyboard parts and one singer plays Sax and they all sound great (we usually play clubs so no need for a giant system) the kick and toms are fat warm and punchy with nice attack on them ... I figure there's no reason why my bass shouldnt sound that way but something is out of Wack lol

#1 - Everything sounds great but the bass? (simple answer here)
#2 - IMHO? Ditch the Drive Rack - Ditch the Peavey subs - buy a powered sub (maybe a KW181) - problem solved
#3 - Bass DI to mixer - Zero out the bass channel - HPF set to 100Hz - EQ flat - no processing - if your bass still sounds bad see #2
 
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