Options for neck with too much relief?

[Bruce Johnson]

I loosened the truss rod. I had tightened it just good and snug. Before the heat treatment, it was white-knuckle tight. I loosened it to where it's just disengaged, then tightened it just a bit, so it's not rattling around. Relief is still around 0.006 inch. Let it sit awhile (hard to do). If that doesn't do anything, I guess I'll start looking for some higher tension flats (These are the Fender 9050L).

Hmm....Okay, it sounds like you may have bent it too far? Well, you can always heat it up again and reverse the clamping.....just a little bit.

 

[T_Bone_TL]

Patience (and perhaps a fully loose 'n rattly rod when you're not playing it) seems like the first stab to take here...

 

[Bruce Johnson]

I loosened the truss rod. I had tightened it just good and snug. Before the heat treatment, it was white-knuckle tight. I loosened it to where it's just disengaged, then tightened it just a bit, so it's not rattling around. Relief is still around 0.006 inch. Let it sit awhile (hard to do). If that doesn't do anything, I guess I'll start looking for some higher tension flats (These are the Fender 9050L).

Remember that the goal is to get the neck so that, under string tension, the relief is about right, with the truss rod about halfway tight. You don't want it to be at the full setup with the truss loose or nearly loose. In that condition, the neck will be unstable with the weather. It's important that the truss rod is moderately tight in playing condition.

Keep working at it to get it right. You've got the tools and process now.

 

[lark_z]

Understood. I'll let it sit awhile first. I'm pretty hesitant to go start adding relief back with heat.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Understood. I'll let it sit awhile first. I'm pretty hesitant to go start adding relief back with heat.

Sure. See if it's going to settle back partway. Put it back together with the normal strings and the action up high. Build some hand strength for a few weeks, and see what it does.

 

[lark_z]

I took it up a half step in pitch today. If the StringJoy calculator is accurate, that'll increase the force by about 15 lbs. I'm certainly not going to leave it there, just for a day or so. The other thing I'm pondering is to move it into the garage strung up one afternoon this week. Summer is hanging on, it'll be at least 95 outside, so it'll be at least 100 in the garage. Then check it periodically.

 

[Lo-E]

You’ll have a lot more control with the heating pad than you will with the garage. If you want to relieve it just a little, try the heating pad with the bass strung to tension and for a shorter amount of time, say 2 or 2 1/2 hours. Then let it settle for a few days.

Now that you’ve got it close you need to take conservative, measured steps or you’ll keep ending up on either side of the target without ever hitting the bullseye.

 

[lark_z]

Thanks @Lo-E and @Bruce Johnson for the encouragement and words of wisdom. And yes - @Lo-E - I was quite worried about whipsawing the neck between two extremes.

One hour with heating pad on high with bass strung up and the relief is just shy of 0.010. A tad low, but it's playable and it may continue to settle in. Really nice to know that I can just ooch up on it.

I heard you @Bruce Johnson, I need to get more relief in it so I can get the truss rod tightened so it's not moving around with the weather.

Thanks!

 

[lark_z]

The relief measured at 0.015 last evening and the same this morning. Color me finished and content.

 

[lark_z]

After a few days, the business card strip is a bit loose at the 8th fret. Drug out the feeler gage. It's at 0.016". Checked my other main player and it's also at 0.016. What are the odds they'd both be the same?

 

[byacey]

One thing to keep in mind is what I mentioned previously. The wood has to be heated right through to the very core, otherwise you reform the outer fibers of the wood, but the internal core still has counter-tension against the outer wood. This causes it to want to revert back to it's original state. With violin bows, the temperatures are probably in the high 100s to low 200s F, almost to the point where it starts to be singed.

You can actually feel when the wood gets to this point, as it suddenly becomes limp and can be easily bent to where you want it to be.

 

[jtg]

Sorry to reanimate a zombie thread. I was wonder if anyone has suggestions as to specific product choices for the heating pad. I have a couple necks in the stable that could benefit from this treatment. I'm seeing temperature choices up to 200f here and 80c in another thread that links to this one. The point about heating to the core makes sense. I was looking at this one, which claims to do 160f:

Amazon.com: InVarme Extra Hot Heating Pad: 2X Graphene Max 160℉ Electric Heating Pad for Back Neck Shoulders Leg - Fast Deep Relief for Men Father Husband in Winter - 4H Auto Off 12" x 24" : Health & Household

Buy InVarme Extra Hot Heating Pad: 2X Graphene Max 160℉ Electric Heating Pad for Back Neck Shoulders Leg - Fast Deep Relief for Men Father Husband in Winter - 4H Auto Off 12" x 24": Heating Pads - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

Otoh that has an auto shut off which sounds maybe not helpful. I also found these, but they require an external power supply and thermostat and I am not readily finding one:

Amazon.com: InVarme Extra Hot Heating Pad: 2X Graphene Max 160℉ Electric Heating Pad for Back Neck Shoulders Leg - Fast Deep Relief for Men Father Husband in Winter - 4H Auto Off 12" x 24" : Health & Household

Buy InVarme Extra Hot Heating Pad: 2X Graphene Max 160℉ Electric Heating Pad for Back Neck Shoulders Leg - Fast Deep Relief for Men Father Husband in Winter - 4H Auto Off 12" x 24": Heating Pads - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

Thanks for any expert guidance.