• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Ordered a Rickenbacker 4003 yesterday, any advice?

Huh... I never was able to keep my forarm off the bass on that body shape. You DID notice that it was a compliment to the bass I made though, not an insult?

Not saying it was. Just that my arm does not touch the body of any bass......if I put it there deliberately, it puts my hand at a very awkward angle and causes pain.

4003, TBird, whatever body shape. Straight wrist keeps arm off body.
 
My first bass was a 1977 4001. I replaced the bridge a few years later with a badass. It never felt right, almost clumsy but you can't argue with it's unique tone and look. I am in the "it's not for me" camp. I look at the prices of them now and I have to argue they have to be one of the most overpriced instruments on the market but hey that's just my opinion.

Kevin ex Ricky owner
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tvrtko
I've had mine since 1977 as it was the first bass I purchased. I own 4 other basses and to this day it's the easiest bass to play. Obviously due to it's age the electronics are better in the newer ones but I keep it in my rotation and take it out every 5th gig. I'll never sell it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bobyoung53
1) If they still use machine screws for the strap buttons (and shockingly, I think they do!) you might as well glue them in place from day 1. It will save you the trouble of buying a new bass when it hits the floor.

2) When adjusting intonation make sure to dial 991 BEFORE you start. Every minute counts with heart attacks!

(I'm being serious about the strap button screws btw)


I just put a rag around the button and screw it in nice and tight with a pair of pliers and they stay put, it also might help to put a washer to keep your strap on.
 
I just put a rag around the button and screw it in nice and tight with a pair of pliers and they stay put, it also might help to put a washer to keep your strap on.

I emailed Ric customer service to ask if there was a factory fix for straplocks that were coming loose. The rep that wrote back said there’s no official remedy, but that on his own bass he unscrewed the button, put in a small drop of superglue, and screwed the button back in. I tried that (I used the good stuff from the hobby shop, not the lousy grocery store stuff) and haven’t had a problem since.
 
Not saying it was. Just that my arm does not touch the body of any bass......if I put it there deliberately, it puts my hand at a very awkward angle and causes pain.

4003, TBird, whatever body shape. Straight wrist keeps arm off body.


I bought my first 4001 brand new in 1977 for 429.00 at EU Wurlitzers in Boston, first two things I did when I got it home was take the plastic cover off and put Rotosounds on it. I thought the spacing was too close and it didn't have enough "balls", I raised up the bridge pickup but all it did was make it middy. I was a P bass player at that time (still am actually) I gave it to some one I owned money too (reluctantly), I bought my next one in 1990 and it sounded good, bought many more and finally discovered the reason why it had no balls: there was a cap in the bridge pickup circuit that cut all the bottom and low mids out of that pickup, when I finally bypassed it it was like a eureka moment for me. I have long since gotten used to them and my 79 4001 I have now is probably the easiest bass to play that i own including J and P and Gibsons. I never had any problems with the binding whether I lean on the top or not or most of the things people here complain about, you set the intonation up it stays, you set the hairpin truss rods they stay put etc. It's also not the only bass i play but people always like it when I bring it out, both sound and looks. I use flatwounds on them now and they sound just like when I brought my first one home except of course more balls. I'm going to buy a new 4003S this year when I get back to the states, why? Just because:laugh:.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Hounddog409
Here's my take on Ric's having owned a 2019 4003 and a 1974 4001:

They provide a very unique feel and sound.
I had a hard time finding a place to put my thumb while playing them (I recommend a treble bezel also).
They look amazing.
The neck profiles seem to vary quite a bit from instrument to instrument.
The upper strap button is at about the 14th fret, which pushes the bass to left a little bit when you play standing up. This bothers me because its a farther reach to the first couple frets, it might not bother you.

Overall I would say they are pretty awesome with a few quirks. Enjoy!
 
Small update to this post:
I bought my first 4001 brand new in 1977 for 429.00 at EU Wurlitzers in Boston, first two things I did when I got it home was take the plastic cover off and out Rotosounds on it. I thought the spacing was too close and it didn't have enough "balls", I raised up the bridge pickup but all it did was make it middy. I was a P bass player at that time (still am actually) I gave it to some one I owned money too (reluctantly), I bought my next one in 1990 and it sounded good, but many more and finally discovered the reason why it had no balls: there was a cap in the bridge pickup circuit that cut all the bottom and low mids out of that pickup, when I finally bypassed it it was like a eureka moment for me. I have long since gotten used to them and my 79 4001 I have now is probably the easiest bass to play that i own including J and P and Gibsons. I never had any problems with the binding whether I lean on the top or now or most of the things people here complain about, you set the intonation up it stays, you set the hairpin truss rods they stay put etc. It's also not the only bass i play but people always like it when I bring it out, both sound and looks. I use flatwounds on them now and they sound just like when I brought my first one home except of course more balls. I'm going to buy a new 4003S this year when I get back to the states, why? Just because:laugh:.
Are they usually cheaper in the US? In the U.K. a brand new 4003 goes for about £2500 but I managed to get mine imported for £1700 from the states (taxes and additional costs not included)
 
  • Like
Reactions: bobyoung53
Small update to this post:

Are they usually cheaper in the US? In the U.K. a brand new 4003 goes for about £2500 but I managed to get mine imported for £1700 from the states (taxes and additional costs not included)


You can get a 4003S here for approximately $1400.00 online, the 4003, not sure, maybe a hundred or two more. I haven't been pricing 4003's. I sold a cop (bobby?) in the UK a 4003 about 15 years ago and he had to pay import duties also, don't know how much.
 
I too was quite nervous when I bought mine, and had it shipped to Guitar Center so that I could play it before I got home, in case something was wrong with it. As you can see by my avatar, I kept that bad boy. The biggest thing I can say is sit down with it and take the time to get used to it. This will pay dividends in the long run.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bobyoung53
I too was quite nervous when I bought mine, and had it shipped to Guitar Center so that I could play it before I got home, in case something was wrong with it. As you can see by my avatar, I kept that bad boy. The biggest thing I can say is sit down with it and take the time to get used to it. This will pay dividends in the long run.

100%, that's it, any different bass takes time, same thing with Gibsons.
 
I haven’t seen it come up yet in this thread, but a critical comment I see frequently is that Rics are a “one trick pony.” That they’re only good for one style of music, for one particular sound. Not true. There are four knobs on the bass, and time spent exploring the sounds that can be found in there is time well spent. (I use mine in a jazz setting, for instance, and pull a nice, smooth chocolatey tone out.)

completely agree, and when I want grind, crank the mids on the preamp and dig in hard and the clouds open up. Man what a tone.
 
I currently own 4003 basses from 2015 and 2018. They play and sound great. Good value for American workmanship IMO.

A lot of people complain about the old bridge but I haven't seen complaints about the new one. Personally, I think the previous bridges are just fine. The saddles may need a little filing for optimal sound and playability but some people moaned about it as if they had to swap strings and adjust the intonation every day. Tail lift has never been a problem for me. I have read popular aftermarket bridges can buzz a lot.

I switched the pickups to Toaster and Horseshoe, made new wiring harness, dropped in bone nuts and filed the saddles and gave them proper setups. None of those things were bad -- I just wanted to level up and I am happy with the changes. I play them more than any other bass at this point. And I sold off a few basses after I buying the Rics. The basses I sold stopped getting use. I still have a P.

Overall, they are iconic basses. There are a ton of great tones in there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bobyoung53
Be aware that the Jetglo basses have been experiencing paint bubbling in and around the bridge. As RIC only warrants fisnish for one year for the date of manufacture, do keep an eye on that and be sure to contact RIC before the warranty runs out, should there be any finish issues.
Also, be ware that the p/u selector switch can be problematic and that recent examples tend to have pretty robust necks, unlike their 60's and 70's models.
Good luck, I hope you get a good one and that it is all that you hope for!
Fishheadjoe


UMMMM..so what's wrong with the 70s' Rics? I have a 1972 and it still kicks butt...(see avatar) I also have a 2016 4003s ummm this thing wellllll :spit::rollno:
 
  • Like
Reactions: bobyoung53