I'm sure the basspod would be an improvement on the Palatino's sound with the right settings. I run mine through the Tech21 Sansamp Bass Driver DI with these setting: Drive - 7 o'clock, Bass - 1 o'clock, Treble - 2.5 o'clock, Presence - 7 o'clock, Blend - 12 o'clock, and Level - 5 o'clock. I don't know if that will help you at all (7 is the lowest on and 5 is the highest on my preamp) but perhaps someone else reading this will have a Bass Driver and find it useful.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Double Bass Palatino Megathread part I
- Thread starter Nohandles
- Start date
- Status
Check these folks out.. I hear they have the template for the Palatino already.
http://www.coloradocase.com/
I've only used the POOR MANS POD- the Behringer Bass V-AMP... the tube pre amp-clean is a great preset for the palatino-as is the B15 preset & also the SWR preset!!! I'm SURE if Behringer's got 'em then the pod MUST!!! ;-)
I just found the pod type handy in getting more pre amp control over the RAW palatino!
I just found the pod type handy in getting more pre amp control over the RAW palatino!
So my Palatino came in yesterday and within about 20 minutes I had the rubber under the pickup and bridge feet and got it going. Wow, I'm pretty impressed... Other than the ridiculous on/off switch.. (my only question is why
) I don't have many complaints. I can see that the time is limited on the bridge (it's a bit soft) but it worked ok and luckily I'm not getting any noise from the tailpiece but I'll keep an ear out over time. The bass worked fantastically at the gig last night and quite a few folks came up to comment on it. I went straight into the PA and suprisingly the sound was pretty close to an amplified DB and the feel is definitely better than I expected. I tried the BassPod out but none of my settings sounded better than the raw Palatino so I'll work on programmin' up some today to work with my SWR brain/BagEnd 15" setup. Last night's gig was just an acoustic duo, tonight I'll hear it in context of an added drummer & percussionist and will report back. Happy Thumping
Mik
----
"All it takes for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing"
Link Removed
Link Removed
) I don't have many complaints. I can see that the time is limited on the bridge (it's a bit soft) but it worked ok and luckily I'm not getting any noise from the tailpiece but I'll keep an ear out over time. The bass worked fantastically at the gig last night and quite a few folks came up to comment on it. I went straight into the PA and suprisingly the sound was pretty close to an amplified DB and the feel is definitely better than I expected. I tried the BassPod out but none of my settings sounded better than the raw Palatino so I'll work on programmin' up some today to work with my SWR brain/BagEnd 15" setup. Last night's gig was just an acoustic duo, tonight I'll hear it in context of an added drummer & percussionist and will report back. Happy Thumping Mik
----
"All it takes for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing"
Link Removed
Link Removed
Hi all, i need a ruling on something. when gigging, which one you all like the best:
1. the sounds that really resembles Double Bass (Very Boomy, sometimes you cannot hear clearly the note but really gives a certain "Jazz Nuance") ?
or
2.sounds that adequately boomy and doesn't resembles DB much (but you really can hear what note you play) ?
if i changed the bridge to a new maple one but still used the stock strings will it enhance my sound ? =) i'm a little cheap on the budget,=)
Thanks all !!
1. the sounds that really resembles Double Bass (Very Boomy, sometimes you cannot hear clearly the note but really gives a certain "Jazz Nuance") ?
or
2.sounds that adequately boomy and doesn't resembles DB much (but you really can hear what note you play) ?
if i changed the bridge to a new maple one but still used the stock strings will it enhance my sound ? =) i'm a little cheap on the budget,=)
Thanks all !!
I would save both settings somewhere written down on a piece of paper so that at the time you can decide whether you need more of a booming tone or more of a precise one. But it's all up to you, it is YOUR sound. 
I am a very happy camper today, because I just finished one of many summer projects. I was thinking about how I liked being able to hit those nice low notes when I had detuned my E string, but how much of a pain it was to have to retune it every time I wanted to play along with a CD. I had also been thinking about how intriguing some of those C extensions I had seen around looked, but they were all much too expensive for me (and for this bass). Well, I was in my garage about two weeks ago when I noticed that I had some pretty nice pieces of scrap maple and ebony just lying there. Then it hit me; I could make my own extension, it'd be a great learning experience (and a cool add on to the bass)! So I went to work on it and ordered a D'Addario orchestral medium extended C string (to match the set of orchestral mediums already on the bass) from Lemur music. Fast forward to right now, I've just finished (minus some tweaking of course) the extension. Here are some pictures:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
The extension is built around the basic idea of the Kansas City String ones (yeah, I'm a copy cat XP) with the three pulleys inside of it. The nut on the extension is a piece of scrap leather with a small ridge for the string in it and it is not glued down so the string is tunable. The E stop isn't quite working yet, but it's a piece of ebony bolted to a metal strip attached to the neck under the nut (once again, a copied idea). The whole extension other than the fingerboard and hardware is painted with a black spray lacquer that does a poor job as a good finish, but works alright for me. The last picture is a shot of my new, thicker bridge which looks a lot dirtier and more scratched than it really is because I haven't wiped off my bass since I finished working on it. The sound? It hits a good rumbly low note that matches the rest of the bass' range, and the new bridge has given all my notes a thick tone. Overall, I'm pretty pleased so far. The action is a bit high for my taste, but I contribute that to the string length and poor leveling of the extension with the fingerboard. I'll try to get off my lazy bum to make an audio clip for you guys later, I just wanted to share this first. Next week: my modified version of the double bass tail piece!
I am a very happy camper today, because I just finished one of many summer projects. I was thinking about how I liked being able to hit those nice low notes when I had detuned my E string, but how much of a pain it was to have to retune it every time I wanted to play along with a CD. I had also been thinking about how intriguing some of those C extensions I had seen around looked, but they were all much too expensive for me (and for this bass). Well, I was in my garage about two weeks ago when I noticed that I had some pretty nice pieces of scrap maple and ebony just lying there. Then it hit me; I could make my own extension, it'd be a great learning experience (and a cool add on to the bass)! So I went to work on it and ordered a D'Addario orchestral medium extended C string (to match the set of orchestral mediums already on the bass) from Lemur music. Fast forward to right now, I've just finished (minus some tweaking of course) the extension. Here are some pictures:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
The extension is built around the basic idea of the Kansas City String ones (yeah, I'm a copy cat XP) with the three pulleys inside of it. The nut on the extension is a piece of scrap leather with a small ridge for the string in it and it is not glued down so the string is tunable. The E stop isn't quite working yet, but it's a piece of ebony bolted to a metal strip attached to the neck under the nut (once again, a copied idea). The whole extension other than the fingerboard and hardware is painted with a black spray lacquer that does a poor job as a good finish, but works alright for me. The last picture is a shot of my new, thicker bridge which looks a lot dirtier and more scratched than it really is because I haven't wiped off my bass since I finished working on it. The sound? It hits a good rumbly low note that matches the rest of the bass' range, and the new bridge has given all my notes a thick tone. Overall, I'm pretty pleased so far. The action is a bit high for my taste, but I contribute that to the string length and poor leveling of the extension with the fingerboard. I'll try to get off my lazy bum to make an audio clip for you guys later, I just wanted to share this first. Next week: my modified version of the double bass tail piece!
Can someone with a Palatino advise if the fingerboard profile is symmetrical about the centre along its length, as opposed to being profiled for a right hander to bow?
Reason for asking: Looking to modify a Palatino for LH player.
Reason for asking: Looking to modify a Palatino for LH player.
I don't know the diameter of the Palatino's endpin, but I use a rubber cane tip for my Carruthers.
Go to the drugstore and see if you find one with the correct size.
Go to the drugstore and see if you find one with the correct size.
Gracias, Francois.. I'm guessing the point rips through eventually but it's still much more economical than ones I've seen online for $15 or more...
The end pin is about 5/8 inch diameter. You can get a white chair rubber end at a hardware store or a big box lumber yard like Home Depot, etc. Or you can make a metal insert that press fits into the end then add a end pin ball like this-
Link Removed. I put this one in mine and it is indestructible. I have them in all of my basses.
Link Removed. I put this one in mine and it is indestructible. I have them in all of my basses.
I tried the cello tail gut which sounded marginally better but decided against it because of reliability concerns and going out of tune on the gig.
IMHO the only major flaw in the design of the Palotino is the tailpiece. It looks odd because the tension goes in two angles. Accoustic basses have a tailpiece that followes the angle of the strings from the bridge to the bottom of the bass. My simple solution was to drill the string holes through the ebony from top to bottom. This mod works with both gut or the metal tailpiece. This probably has no impact on sound but looks a lot more mechanically stabile.
Next I cut a small piece of rubber (Dr. Schols shoe insert) and rapped the end of the metal tailpeice where it hangs on the metal clip. Believe it or not this elimates the metal tailpece resonance and sound pretty close to the gut. String tension may be slightly lighter as well.
The final source of resonance was between the bridge and ebony piece. This was slolved with a combition of light foam and velcro rapped around the four strings.
For a final sound check I miked the body with a condensor mic and blended it with the pickup. This picks up more string sounds and adds very realistic character to the sound. So far this is the best upright electric bass sound I have ever hear.
I also made an ebony piece to vecro over the metal - for looks only.
One new problem to report. The end pin connectors appear to be loose after about 15 gigs?
IMHO the only major flaw in the design of the Palotino is the tailpiece. It looks odd because the tension goes in two angles. Accoustic basses have a tailpiece that followes the angle of the strings from the bridge to the bottom of the bass. My simple solution was to drill the string holes through the ebony from top to bottom. This mod works with both gut or the metal tailpiece. This probably has no impact on sound but looks a lot more mechanically stabile.
Next I cut a small piece of rubber (Dr. Schols shoe insert) and rapped the end of the metal tailpeice where it hangs on the metal clip. Believe it or not this elimates the metal tailpece resonance and sound pretty close to the gut. String tension may be slightly lighter as well.
The final source of resonance was between the bridge and ebony piece. This was slolved with a combition of light foam and velcro rapped around the four strings.
For a final sound check I miked the body with a condensor mic and blended it with the pickup. This picks up more string sounds and adds very realistic character to the sound. So far this is the best upright electric bass sound I have ever hear.
I also made an ebony piece to vecro over the metal - for looks only.
One new problem to report. The end pin connectors appear to be loose after about 15 gigs?
Just ordered the one from URBBOB... I suppose I'll spend a bit more now but have much less to worry about in the future..
PS.. got my cymbal stand setup, put rubber under the bridge and pickup and the bass is completely playable and as much a joy to play as anything I've come across.. Only issue is I'm getting a bit less of a signal on the E-string but I'll try removing the rubber on that side of the bridge and see how that works. Thanks again to you and everyone else for the pointers.. I took her on every gig I had last weekend. She worked really well on the Latin-Jazz gig as I expected but I was completely surprised how well she worked out on the hip-hop gig.. I'll roll with her as-is for right now but based on the comments I've read, I'll probably get the nylon thang going on the tailpiece next...
unscrew the two plates holding the endpin to the back of the bass, then tighten the screws that are on the underside of them, and replace on the back of the Palatino. Happens to me occasionally as well. 
I aim the mike at the top of the body between the fingerboard and taipiece about one inch above the body. I am experimenting with connecting an Audio Technica Pro 70 to the bass to avoid using a mike stand. So far I have attached a stiff 12 gauge wire under the output jack and bent the wire to achieve the desired 90 degree angle. Once the the wire is in place this tiny lavaliere mic is velcroed in place. The sound from the mic is not full but adds considerable high end resonance and character to the sound. It compliments the full deep sound of the built in pickup. You need a mixer to blend the sounds. I use a Behringer Ultratone 1800 keyboard amp which has a built in mixer and xlr mic input. The trick is to just add a small amount of miked sound. This really adds a lot realism to the sound because it picks up the much of the sound you would normally get when you mike a bass violin.
I have not tried this out on a gig yet but it sounds great in my studio. This is the best upright elctric sound I have heard including instruments costing over $3k.
I did try out my bass on a gig with the tailpeice mod (strings thru ebony string holder and standard metal piece connector wrapped in rubber). This worked very well in terms of tone, playability and avoided the intonation problems I had with cello gut.
People are knocked out by the tone of this instrument and I have not touched the strings, pickup, pre etc. These mods are essentially free.
I have not tried this out on a gig yet but it sounds great in my studio. This is the best upright elctric sound I have heard including instruments costing over $3k.
I did try out my bass on a gig with the tailpeice mod (strings thru ebony string holder and standard metal piece connector wrapped in rubber). This worked very well in terms of tone, playability and avoided the intonation problems I had with cello gut.
People are knocked out by the tone of this instrument and I have not touched the strings, pickup, pre etc. These mods are essentially free.
- Status
