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Double Bass Palatino Megathread part II

#241
lundborg said:
I found this on Youtube, might be interesting for you:

Click to expand...


daahoud said:
I just bought one used Golf Flight Case, but it's only 48 inch long.
Way too short for Palation, since it's 63 inche long without foot extention.

Any experience or information ?

Still don't get it why Palation doesn't make Padding case or hardcase for it. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

didnt yours come with a gig bag? mine did:ninja:

i had someone build me one its shaped like a coffin and people who usually dont pay much attention to the bassists know me as gal with the coffin bass:)
 
#242
mVacanti said:
Hey Palatinos,

What's the matter with my new Palatino? I bought it online and it needed repair. It's got a good new bridge and planned fingerboard. The lower strings play great and have great sustain. The problem is in the last octave way up high on the g string. The tone is just dead. Its like a thunk instead of a nice bwow. Its not the pickup and I don't think its the strings. I moved them both over from my doublebass which sounds great. I can hear the problem with no amplification at all. I think its acoustical physics. Something is keeping it from resonating up there.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

raise the strings?? mine works fine but i do have higher strings than most
 
#244
Apologies if this has been previously covered, but I tried the megathread and couldn't find a solution short of drilling a proper endpin, which I'm not ready to do.

I just bought a used palatino ve-550, and I'm surprised at how nicely it plays after trying out the stagg less successfully. The only problem is the endpin won't stay extended. I took apart the knobs that holds it in place, and on each of them the washer was really warped. I'm going to try and find a replacement washer, but something tells me I'm not going to find a suitable replacement at home depot. Does anyone know what a good source would be?

Does anyone have any suggestions for improving the hold of the endpin knobs? I'm thinking I might be able to put some sort of thin shim at the bottom of the cylinders the endpin passes through might help, but I'm not sure if that will keep it from passing though freely when the knobs or loosened.
 
#245
darjama said:
...The only problem is the endpin won't stay extended. I took apart the knobs that holds it in place, and on each of them the washer was really warped....

Does anyone have any suggestions for improving the hold of the endpin knobs?...
Click to expand...

Those aren't washers, they are springs, so they are supposed to be "warped". Moreover, it should hold just fine without them. If the endpin is slipping, there may be several things causing the problem, but assuming you are tightenning it appropriately and it feels tight, the most likely problem is simply grease or other dirt buildup on the endpin. Try washing the endpin, knobs and other components thoroughly. First with a damp cloth to get rid of any debris, then use rubbing alcohol to get rid of grease. Be careful with the rubbing alcohol! You don't want to wash any parts that are supposed to be greased and it will remove the finish from the bass (but it will really help clean the endpin and the points of contact)
 
#246
okay, thanks. I'll try cleaning it. I also found something in the old posts about using paint stripper to clean off paint from the screw threads and the contact points that hold the endpin, I may try that and see if that will help get a tighter grip. Others mentioned using a 3/4" oak dowel, that might be worth trying as well.

I tried using it without the springs and it tightened more, but was harder to loosen.
 
#248
Hi guys, I desperately need the help of my peers. After close to a decade of playing my beloved upright I have shifted continents and have been forced to leave her behind. I have limited funds and space, and thus I am considering my first EUB purchase (I know that most people do this the other way around but as I said, no room). After strenuous research I believe that the Palatino is the EUB for me but I need the advice of anyone who can say yay or nay for this model. To clarify, the problems with the bridge/preamp are not an issue for me because I have my lovely adjustable bridge from my upright and my K&K Rockabilly plus pickup and preamp. Also I don't play arco, just pizz and slap (with an action so high it makes every lazy DB player cringe) so the paladino seems to be the best approximate for that feel/setup. Oh and I have the black tephlon LaBellas so I'm not worried about the supplied string quality. Lastly before anyone asks, I started on the upright and moved to electric bass so my technique needs no adjustment. Please let me know if this bass is= portable, reliable, has a true DB feel, better than the German copy that retails at 100 dollars less, and overall a sound investment. PS dont reccomend any thinline/pogos because I've tried and my head can't get around the lack of body. Thanking yall in advance.
 
#249
Also just read the trouble some were having with the endpin. When I started I had this problem due to the high energy/impact of rockabilly playing. Sounds Lo-fi but on my old upright I solved the problem with about 3 wraps worth of tape. This makes the pin too thick to recceed. But some people obviously don't want to have to clean up after this.
 
#250
Hi All, I have searched the thread for an answer but wasn't able to locate one. Sorry if the answer is obvious and I missed it. I just picked up a VE-500 that needs new strings. Because it was listed as a 3/4 bass I tried standard 3/4 bass strings but they were too long. Can anyone provide a recommendation on size and type for blues practice? Thanks.
 
#251
I'm not an upright player (yet), but I am considering helping a friend out in selling his bass. It's basically brand new, sunburst, with a couple of hours of play time at the most. It looks like it sells for $679.99 new on MF. He has a padded gig bag and stand for it.

What's a fair price for these EUBs?
 
#252
flysafe said:
I just picked up a VE-500 that needs new strings. Because it was listed as a 3/4 bass I tried standard 3/4 bass strings but they were too long.
Click to expand...
Scale length of VE500 is standard 3/4 size - about 40 1/2 inches, so standard strings should be just fine. Is it possible that the string set you tried was actually full-size?

bejayoharen said:
the most likely problem is simply grease or other dirt buildup on the endpin. Try washing the endpin, knobs and other components thoroughly. First with a damp cloth to get rid of any debris, then use rubbing alcohol to get rid of grease.
Click to expand...

Same problem here. Tried removing the paint from the holes that endpin goes through - doesn't help. Made sure endpin is grease-free. Always tighten the knobs so much I sometimes struggle to un-screw them :) Nothing helps - the pin still slips. What did help a bit is a hose clamp (bought at Home Depot). That seems to provide just that missing degree of tightness. I put the clamp onto the pin just under the top knob.
 
#253
After doing some research, and struggling somewhat with my Platino, I am convinced that its' fingerboard scoop is waay too deep. First, fingerboard literally dives right after the nut; so, forget about "fitting a business card" - more like two credit cards. Second, when string is pressed to fingerboard on both ends the gap in the middle is about 2.5-3.5 times a string thickness (less on G side, more on E side).

Has anybody tried re-planing fingerboard? What is involved? Am I better off taking the bass to luthier? (I read some comments here that most luthiers wouldn't touch Palatino's).

Any help would be appreciated.
 
#254
tomilchik said:
After doing some research, and struggling somewhat with my Platino, I am convinced that its' fingerboard scoop is waay too deep. First, fingerboard literally dives right after the nut; so, forget about "fitting a business card" - more like two credit cards. Second, when string is pressed to fingerboard on both ends the gap in the middle is about 2.5-3.5 times a string thickness (less on G side, more on E side).

Has anybody tried re-planing fingerboard? What is involved? Am I better off taking the bass to luthier? (I read some comments here that most luthiers wouldn't touch Palatino's).

Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

IMHO, this is definitely a job for a luthier.
Maybe some local luthier will accept the job.
Maybe he'll suggest to change the FB altogether, but is it worth the expense?
 
#255
tomilchik said:
After doing some research, and struggling somewhat with my Platino, I am convinced that its' fingerboard scoop is waay too deep. First, fingerboard literally dives right after the nut; so, forget about "fitting a business card" - more like two credit cards. Second, when string is pressed to fingerboard on both ends the gap in the middle is about 2.5-3.5 times a string thickness (less on G side, more on E side).

Has anybody tried re-planing fingerboard? What is involved? Am I better off taking the bass to luthier?.
Click to expand...

The modifications-and-fixes saga is almost over...

Took my Palatino to David Gage shop (a NYC luthier). They did an excellent job on straightening the fretboard, it plays so much more comfortable now, closer to some Kay acoustic uprights that I tried out at the same shop.

Overall so far: with all upgrades, mods and fixes I've more than doubled my original investment (holy cow!!!):

* absolute must:
- fretboard re-planed: $200

* very useful if you gig (I do):
- new bag: $200 (the original one is really bad, does not protect the instrument at all);
- folding stand: $50 (I try to always use stands; the only fall my BG took did not cost much to repair, but scared me)

* sound quality/playability (these all are questionable as to how much they *really* improve the sound, considering the rather low point I started at with Palatino. I only installed new strings, and will be doing the rest soon. Must admit I could've gone without any and all of these):
- new strings: ~$130
- new pickup+preamp (K&K BassMax): $180
- new bridge (Eminence): $80
- ebony tailpiece: $50

* still more to-do's (but no big investments here):
- slipping end-pin

Total: $700 for new Palatino + $890 = $1690.:bawl: This is CRAZY! :eek:

Would I recommend a Palatino to a friend? *** NO *** :scowl: :rollno:

So, for now - I'm sticking with my investment, and NOT getting a real acoustic UB (which is what I ultimately want), unless I miraculously stumble upon some real bargain that sounds like a $2200 Kay, but costs like a $700 Palatino ;)
 
#259
I've spent over 3 hours surfing the web trying to find the 'standard' dimensions for a DB bass bridge... Seems like the answer is consistently 'a personal choice'. While I agree somewhat, there must be some kind of basic standard that is taught to luthiers in regards to the relative thickness of DB bridges. Obviously they don't make this up out of thin air every time! Evidently these guys are not giving up that info. on the net!

I just got the Eminence blank for my Pal.... I'm ready to do some shaping but the top of the bridge is 10mm (!) thick. Even to my completely ignorant eye, this is far too much material to get any kind of tone.

So, can somebody get out their calipers and at least get me in the ballpark?

I would also be interested in the string spacing and radius on the OEM Pal bridge. The Eminence blank is very flat....

Better yet... anyone want to let me borrow (or sell) their Pal OEM bridge?
 
#260
Got a new ve-550 and I cant seem to find the set up instructions. I looked every where. Can any body help a brother out? This is my first eub and I dont want to set it up incorrectly.
Also, there are parts on the backof the bass that I have no idea what they are for. Maybe a stand?

I have browsed around and have seen a bunch of midification stuff but nothing on the initial set up.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Gary
 

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