Do they spin too freely compared to what you are used to, or is there an actual issue with them when you spin them, such as a 'scratchy' or 'dirty' signal or dead spots? Have you A/B'd it with a similar amp from the same manufacturer? It is better to focus on the evidence and the facts, rather than go down the conjecture rabbit hole and base your decisions on regurgitated forum opinions, hlaf assed blog posts and 'information' that originated with product marketing departments.
Different pot manufacturers have different mechanical resistance from the factory. Even between Switchcraft, Bourns and CTS there is a noticeable difference (these are commercial/industrial product manufacturers, not 'musical equipment component' manufacturers. There are forum threads on that on various instrument related forums. As a general rule, new pots and pots that function properly but have little to no resistance is a sign of the lowest quality tier, which goes hand in glove with lowest quality internals.
Very few pots less than 10 - 20 years old have ever been cleaned with anything and it is at the bottom of the possible reasons for what you are describing, statistically. A commercial/industrial grade pot is generally good for daily use for two or three decades of daily use before it needs replacing, cleaning is environment/application specific.
If a pot spins past its detents at 0 and/or 10 freely that means someone over cranked it and took out the detent. That is possible with any brand but again much more common with the bargain basement quality ones. That doesn't necessarily take the pot out of service but it is still a good idea to replace it if that happens on gigging/employment equipment.
Then you have new vs old, between 1990 and 2000 a lot of companies switched to lighter duty pots and other internals like jack inputs/outputs for their beginner and even mid tier amps, which again are less robust and easier to destroy if you are heavy handed. I've yet to see a class D amp that didn't have 'home audio' quality pots and often jack sockets, as they want the smaller form factor for the small units and the amps themselves are often now designed to be 'remove and replace', not repair.
The 'traditional' (inexperienced 1980's - 90's musicians), criticism of using contact cleaner on pots is that it 'dries them out' (the metal contact surfaces, not the shafts, the shaft rides on a bushing that doesn't require a lubricant). These items have dry contact surfaces from the factory and it has never been considered a real issue by either the manufacturers or those who service the stuff for a living. The newer 'warnings' against using it for what it was designed for originate with later, competing product marketing/sales departments, not engineers or technicians. The musical instrument market is littered with products like this and this marketing template existed before the Deoxit company did. They make good quality products but there is a surcharge because it is 'musician'. The brand name pretty clearly states what it is to a tech, an anti-oxidizer coating, not a cleaner. Guitar Center even came up with a deoxit ripoff using almost exactly the same name that actually does damage pots. Neither Ideal or the proper type of CRC damage pots in any way. 'Automotive' grade contact cleaner is too aggressive for electronics as well and will damage them.
The whole point of using contact cleaner is to clean, not coat. You wash out the pot (and/or fader), with it, using the access holes the better quality pot manufacturers have been supplying for that purpose since they were invented. Yes it is going to wash out whatever dust might be in there, that is it's purpose. If it washes onto other electronics components in the item keep washing. Pretty simple. You can hose down any internal component on any tube or ss amp (or electronics item/computer pcb board), with it without risking any damage. I saved an 1100 dollar Sansui audiophile power amp with a 'blown' left channel (nothing but static at any volume), by doing nothing more than that, for example. Dust is no friend to pcb boards either, something about the static electrical charge it can carry, which is what causes pots to get 'dirty'/'scratchy', to use the traditionally accepted terms in every industry that uses them. The only other known cause is wear, which is a service life issue, not a defect.
Why do you think they put that furry stuff on fader case slots where the shaft comes out? It was done to help keep the dust out of them, as they were mounted horizontally in a lot of applications and horizontally mounted ones went 'dirty' very quickly due to dust. Deoxit fader lube is a product I do use but people have been using WD-40 for the same purpose on electronic's faders without issue for decades.
Using an oil/lube as a 'cleaner' for dust is also a beginner mistake. When you mix dust with oil or grease you just get a thicker, dirtier oil or grease on the item you are trying to get or keep the dust off of. Ask any experienced millwright, garage door service tech or heavy equipment mechanic
