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Passive crossover 8ohm to 4ohm

PhatBasstard

Spector Dissector
Feb 3, 2002
8,191
3,010
Tacoma WA
Ok gurus,
I have a 1x12 with horn (not tweeter) cab that is 8 ohm.
I happened across another 12 driver that is same spec but 4 ohm.
I would like to switch them to get the full wattage out of my nano head.

How will the passive crossover (no horn pad or control) be affected,
if at all, by this change?

Thanks
 
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OP you may well be disappointed in the results of your conversion. Changing the driver to 4Ω to get 'full wattage' will make an almost unnoticeable difference in volume. For instance if you would like to get twice as loud you would have to increase your power level by ten times.

Leave the amp alone and get an extension cabinet for better results.
 
Ok gurus,
I have a 1x12 with horn (not tweeter) cab that is 8 ohm.
I happened across another 12 driver that is same spec but 4 ohm.
I would like to switch them to get the full wattage out of my nano head.

How will the passive crossover (no horn pad or control) be affected,
if at all, by this change?

Thanks

To hear a noticeable difference you need to increase SPL by 3dB. You get a 3dB increase by doubling the power.

Usually amps do not double power when you switch the load from 8 to 4 ohms. Some do, but it's rare.

Often 4 ohm drivers are slightly less efficient than 8 ohm drivers, so you may not gain any perceivable SPL from the switch, even if the amp doubles it output when you change the load to 4 ohms.

Better to get a second matching cab. Then you get the benefit of extracting the max power from the head and also the benefit of mutual coupling between the cabs.

If you have two identical speakers playing at the same volume you get near perfect coupling in the frequency range in which cone spacing is within approximately 1/4 wavelength. This results in an SPL bump of approximately 6dB across in the low end.

Keep in mind the power is split evenly between the two speakers. If the amp power remains the same when you connect the second speaker, the SPL of the first speaker will drop 3dB because the power being shared equally. The SPL of the second speaker will match the first speaker. Then the SPL will be boosted +6dB in the low end from mutual coupling. This basically means you will get at least +3dB when you add the second speaker.

If the amp can make more power due to the lower impedance, you also factor in the dB change that results from the extra power.

If you have one of those special amps that can double the power when the load changes from 8 to 4 ohms, then you get the full +6dB. Basically when you connect the second speaker the power is doubled and then split evenly between both cabs. Since the first cab continues receiving the same level of power it continues putting out the same SPL and the second cab will match the first. Then you will get approximately +6dB in the low end from mutual coupling.

Here's the Rule for Speaker Doubling.
With tube amps the max output is always the same as long as the amp sees the expected load (I.E. no impedance mismatch). Adding a second matching speaker gives you +3dB

Solid state amps may make anywhere from the same, to double the max output when you add a matching cab. Adding a second matching speaker gives you +3 to +6dB. Avoid connecting a load that is below the minimum that the amp is rated for or it will most likely damage the amp or cause it to go into protection mode.

One final thing to consider. If you change your speaker to the minimum impedance you amp can drive, you can no longer use an extension speaker.
 
Thanks for the input everybody.
To clarify a few things:
1. This cab is my small stage, medium to low volume, one cab only rig.
2. Replacement speaker came to me cheap, so no real risk if it doesn't work out.
3. According to the site, my Nanomark 300 IS 150 watts at 8 ohm, 300 at 4.
4. Have used this head (actually have two) in both 8 and 4 ohm loads with identical cabs
(I had identical 410's in both 4 and 8 ohm) and the volume difference was noticeable.

Speaker should be here Wednesday.
I'll chime in with results. Thanks again.
 
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Many 12" drivers won't safely handle 300 watts RMS (4 ohm driver) mechanically at low frequencies. Beware of this.

[edit for typo]
 
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OP did you ever determine whether or not the cab only has a high pass for then horn?
Waiting for the driver to show up on Wednesday before I rip one cab apart.
I actually have 4 of these cabs (don't ask...I do a lot of buying/selling/horse trading),
so I'll be able to do a fairly accurate 8 vs. 4 ohm comparison when done.

Update: FedEx updated to Thursday.
 
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I would sure want to be sure it's compatible with the cabinet you want to use, I would expect that some changes in porting may be required.

If it's the 8 ohm version, how are you getting 4 ohms from it?