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Peavey 1516 1810 1820 ?

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I removed the original grill and replaced it with the more modern full face steel grill.

In the middle (under the rack) is a Crate 1810. That one is loaded with a Black Widow 18, and the 10's are from a Peavey 210TX.

GREAT ******* HECK!! You win here, buddy! At one time I was running my Megoliath with a 2x10 and 18" at the same time on opposite sides of the stage, but you just eclipsed that by a goodly margin!
Are you currently running that rig?

{edit} Oops! Sorry, my bad...just read a little further in the next page....knee-jerk reaction was to respond as soon as I saw that cluster of bass badness....
 
I'll tell you what sounded good! I loaded a 1516 with a JBL E140 and biamped with my GK800RB. Actually the crossover was inop in the cab when I got it, so I found out how well the GK biamp feature works. This was a sweet, powerful bass amp but I had the old "Peavey=cheap" stigma and traded it for something else.

The cab was well made and seemed to be well designed. I'd bet a modern neo 15" and high quality 8's would make it a killer cab today!

Can anyone recommend a decent speaker replacement for the 1516's? I like the cab and the configuration, I would just like to get some speakers or drivers that can handle a little more power.

Thanks...Chris
 
Can anyone recommend a decent speaker replacement for the 1516's? I like the cab and the configuration, I would just like to get some speakers or drivers that can handle a little more power.

Thanks...Chris

Ask James Hart. I seem to remember him lining up some replacements for his, but not sure if he followed through or not.
 
You need to measure the internal volume of this cab as well as the size of the ports. This will be the determinng factor for the optimum drivers. You could post a request on TB and probably get some help from some of the speaker gurus around here.

Myself, I would call or email Don at Low Down Sound with the cabinet specs and get his input as he builds multiple driver cabs all day long. In fact, I'm currently ordering a 15"/8"/horn cab from them.....Good Luck!
 
A couple of comments on the Peavey 1516:

The two 8" drivers are wired out of phase with the 15" Black Widow. I have found that the tone is better (more present and even response in the midrange) with the 8" drivers wired in phase with the 15". All that is necessary to accomplish this is to switch the polarity of the internal speaker cable on the crossover at the back.

I found that the original cabinet tuning of the 1516 was too high (around 65 Hz IIRC) and made the bass response rather boomy. In mine I added damping material and replaced the ports with PVC pipe, retuning to around 40 - 45 Hz. This makes the cabinet sound deeper, flatter, and much less boomy.
 
The two 8" drivers are wired out of phase with the 15" Black Widow. I have found that the tone is better (more present and even response in the midrange) with the 8" drivers wired in phase with the 15". All that is necessary to accomplish this is to switch the polarity of the internal speaker cable on the crossover at the back.

Sure it wasn't just yours that was miswired? Or this: 2nd order crossovers often get mismarked for polarity, when reversing it is common. It can get confusing which way they are marked, so it's always best to check it by ear.

I found that the original cabinet tuning of the 1516 was too high (around 65 Hz IIRC) and made the bass response rather boomy. In mine I added damping material and replaced the ports with PVC pipe, retuning to around 40 - 45 Hz. This makes the cabinet sound deeper, flatter, and much less boomy.

That's pretty high. What's the internal volume of the 15 chamber? I'd recommend anyone considering other drivers NOT retune until they've done some modeling/simming.

Good possibility with two levels of cones like these have you can find drivers today that could really upgrade the cab for more power, different tone and range, etc. There's also the possibility that if your 8" drivers are different that you can tweak the crossover to better utilize the drivers within the presented chamber size.
 
Sure it wasn't just yours that was miswired? Or this: 2nd order crossovers often get mismarked for polarity, when reversing it is common. It can get confusing which way they are marked, so it's always best to check it by ear.

I have a feeling it was deliberately wired out of phase to increase the slope of the crossover.

That's pretty high. What's the internal volume of the 15 chamber? I'd recommend anyone considering other drivers NOT retune until they've done some modeling/simming.

I just found my sheets from years ago when I made the modifications. According to my information the box volume for the 15" is somewhere between 3.2 and 3.5 cubic feet. I estimated the tuning before modifications at 63 Hz.

FWIW, I think the 8" drivers sound pretty good run full range - better than the BW. They can't take much power that way however....

I forgot to mention that I also added a piezo tweeter to the sealed upper section of the enclosure.

Overall, it doesn't sound as good as my D210XST, but decent enough for a second cabinet at bigger gigs. If only it didn't weigh a ton....
 
I have a feeling it was deliberately wired out of phase to increase the slope of the crossover.
That won't increase the slope. Only designing a higher order crossover will increase the slope. As I said, often the wiring indications for second-order are counter-intuitive and sometimes as a result get miswired.

I just found my sheets from years ago when I made the modifications. According to my information the box volume for the 15" is somewhere between 3.2 and 3.5 cubic feet. I estimated the tuning before modifications at 63 Hz.

Depending on driver chosen that would work well in that volume, one might expect 42 to 55 Hz tuning, and I bet the original driver would sim out better lower too - and would say at 65 it is boomy indeed by my present-day tonal stance ; }

FWIW, I think the 8" drivers sound pretty good run full range - better than the BW. They can't take much power that way however....

That's often the tradeoff.
 
I have a feeling it was deliberately wired out of phase to increase the slope of the crossover.

That won't increase the slope. Only designing a higher order crossover will increase the slope. As I said, often the wiring indications for second-order are counter-intuitive and sometimes as a result get miswired.

Regarding the out-of-phase crossover on the 1516, IIRC, as far as I could tell, the 2x8" were intentionally wired that way. Might be worth looking into for other people with similar cabinets....
 
Holy zombie! Almost 8 years old...

Anyway, he probably had his volume set at a reasonable volume. Just because an amp can put out 700 watts doesn't mean it's doing so at all times.

The fact that Peavey stuff is practically indestructible helps too.
 
I used to play one of the 3620's.... I'd sure like that bad boy back again if only to see NOW if it was as awesome of a thumper as I remember it to be. It was awesome as a bi-amp cab about half the time, and a nightmare the other half of the time. Those bad times were when just running it full range was fine. I had a Combo 300 that I made into a head, running out of the top end of the crossover into a Crate b-150 head into the tens, the low end of it pushed the 18's. The amp could run at 2 ohms, so sometimes I ran a 2x15 as well.... no wonder I can't hear worth a %^&$%% these days, huh? And yeah, wow nice zombie resurrection.
 
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I used to run a pair of 3620's on stage!! Awesome rig! So, I am in the midst of rehabbing a 1516. Simple little speakers. pair of 8's (8Ohm each) and a 15 (4 Ohm). Run through the crossover. 1810 and 1820 were the same except for power handling. The 1820 handled more. The 1516 did not use Scorpion 8's, it used Sheffield 8's. The key to those were the silver boarders around the speakers. Which the cab's with the 18's used.
 
Just pulled this off of my 18 20.
400 w program
200 w continuous
4 ohm
crossover 500 hz
around 140 lbs.
cab size 36" x 26" x 20"
1 Black widow 18
2 Scorpion 10's
The speakers can all be run together or using separate inputs , the 10 s and the 18 can be run independent of each other.
As for the CS800 , we used one in one of my old bands. 4 ohm per side if I recall correctly. Great amp and virtually indestructible
 
I've had all three, at various times. I used to run the Peavey probass 1000 preamp into a Fender 2224 power amp, running the tens in the top of an 1820 and a 2x10TX cab full range, off one channel, then the 18 as a sub off the other channel. This was all to amplify my 1989ish Peavey Dynabass Unity Koa. I'm am old Peavey guy from way back. Looking forward to rekindling the relationship, when the Minimega comes out.
 
I bought my Peavey rig in the early 90's and I'm still using it onstage...it is very heavy but it still sounds killer and really moves some air. It's a MKIV head through the 1820 cab driven by my '91 Peavey DynaBass.
PEAVEY MK IV HEAD PEAVEY 1820 CAB.jpg

LUCY08.JPG
 
Maybe this will help somebody out there.
80's versions. Back of cab specs for 1516, 1810, 1820.

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