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Peavey Foundation in Pawn Shop

#41
That is the microtilt adjustment. The screw is an allen wrench type, and is set into the body under the plate. I would bet the screw is still there, you just can't see it. If you find the right allen wrench and slide it in the hole you should be able to adjust it.(after loosening the four main bolts and the strings)
 
#42
I know it might be a daunting thought if you haven't done much soldering, but if I were you I guess I'd think about replacing all the pots and wiring. Some old pots are just scratchy and no amount of cleaning makes them sound good again. Also, if you redo the wiring, you can use some copper foil and shield the control cavity at the same time.:)
 
#44
You guys frickin rule! 3 more questions: I really am thinking about doing what both of you said. Not today maybe but soon. I just want to get it straight for now.

That in mind, where is the best place to get the pots and copper foil?
Would a capacitor upgrade help it and which one?
Is the best way to disconnect everything just to de solder the connections?
How many ohms should those Super Ferrites have if still good? I am assuming dis connect it and check resistance to test.

Thanks again, you guys rule!
 
#45
peavy_pots.jpg


Here you go
 
#47
Typically if you go to a local guitar repair shop and ask they will have pots and caps, you can also find them on ebay. You will want either 250k or 500k audio taper pots. You also need to make sure they have long threaded shafts so they will fit through the body(the wood has to be much thicker than pickguards for Fender applications). The capacitors are really a personal choice. If you want the ability to roll off more treble up the cap to .047 or more(Probably no point in going higher than .1, I personally like .087).

Also,look to see if there is a surplus electronics store in your area. Usually they will have everything you might need.
 
#48
bassmanrocke said:
Typically if you go to a local guitar repair shop and ask they will have pots and caps, you can also find them on ebay. You will want either 250k or 500k audio taper pots. You also need to make sure they have long threaded shafts so they will fit through the body(the wood has to be much thicker than pickguards for Fender applications). The capacitors are really a personal choice. If you want the ability to roll off more treble up the cap to .047 or more(Probably no point in going higher than .1, I personally like .087).

Also,look to see if there is a surplus electronics store in your area. Usually they will have everything you might need.
Click to expand...

What do you mean by rolling up the treble? Increasing it?
 
#49
Passive tone controls simply cut treble. When you turn the knob down you are not boosting bass, you are simply elimating treble which makes it sound bassier. In overly simplified terms,increasing the value of the capacitor allows you to cut more treble making the bass appear to have more bottom end, when in all actuality it has less top end. If you run your bass with the tone control on full this will make virtually no difference, but if you like to "roll-off" the treble a higher value capacitor will give you more treble cut.
 
#51
I don't think that would be a good choice. CTS pot are good quality, but I think the shafts(threaded part) are not long enough to go through your body. Also, since your knobs have set screws, if you use split shafts you will want to put a spacer in the split(usually a cut down pick works well) so the shaft doesn't bend together. These pots are designed for push on knobs, but can be used with set-screw knobs if a spacer is used.

Personally, I would check the wiring first to see if there really is any need to replace the pots. I would also spray contact cleaner in the pots to see if that helps any scratchiness. If the ones you have work once this is done, there really is no gain in replacing them.
 
#52
bassmanrocke said:
I don't think that would be a good choice. CTS pot are good quality, but I think the shafts(threaded part) are not long enough to go through your body. Also, since your knobs have set screws, if you use split shafts you will want to put a spacer in the split(usually a cut down pick works well) so the shaft doesn't bend together. These pots are designed for push on knobs, but can be used with set-screw knobs if a spacer is used.

Personally, I would check the wiring first to see if there really is any need to replace the pots. I would also spray contact cleaner in the pots to see if that helps any scratchiness. If the ones you have work once this is done, there really is no gain in replacing them.
Click to expand...

I realized the specifics might need to be different but I was thinking was the idea a good one. The knobs I have are actually push on. Is there anyway to 'open' the pots up to get the spray in there? There doesn't seem to be anyway to get it in there by just spraying down the shaft and hoping some gets in there. Thanks.

I think it is time to buy a guitar electronics book. :)
 
#53
Usually contact cleaner comes with a small extention tube that you can place in the nozzle. If you remove the knobs and spray at the junction of the shaft and the threads enough will flow into the pots to clean the contacts. Spray for about a second, rotate the shaft 5 -10 times, let dry for about a minute , then repeat the process. Let the pots dry for about 10 minutes then plug in and see if it made a difference. If it doesn't then the pots may need to be replaced, providing the wiring has been checked and that is not the problem.

Also, I have found that talking to local builders/repairmen is a great deal more helpful than a book. Most are proud of what they have learned, and if treated with respect will be more than willing to share their knowledge.
 
#54
bassmanrocke said:
Usually contact cleaner comes with a small extention tube that you can place in the nozzle. If you remove the knobs and spray at the junction of the shaft and the threads enough will flow into the pots to clean the contacts. Spray for about a second, rotate the shaft 5 -10 times, let dry for about a minute , then repeat the process. Let the pots dry for about 10 minutes then plug in and see if it made a difference. If it doesn't then the pots may need to be replaced, providing the wiring has been checked and that is not the problem.

Also, I have found that talking to local builders/repairmen is a great deal more helpful than a book. Most are proud of what they have learned, and if treated with respect will be more than willing to share their knowledge.
Click to expand...

I did that cleaning method on all pots already and it made no difference. I found the problem of the hum (that wire connection) but still have no volume from the neck pickup. How many ohms should a good pickup have? Or isolating that front pot to test it as well? Thanks.
 
#55
I've never checked the resistance on superferrites, so I really don't know. If you want to narrow down to whether it is the pot or the pickup, you could wire the pickup to the second volume pot and see if it works. If it doesn't it is possible there is a wire loose at the pickup or the pickup is dead, if it does then you know that you need to replace the pot. You can remove it and then take it with you to get a replacement that matches.
 
#56
I just ohmed out the pups on my DynaBass 5 - it's pretty much a Foundation with a preamp. I get 5.1k on each pup. That's an in-circuit reading so it may be off a little. It also may be lower than a Foundation's because of being preamped.
 
#57
baddarryl said:
If I hold that wire solidly to the output jack it cancels the hum so I am off for a soldering iron. Still have no volume or reaction from the neck pickup. All other connections are good. I have rarely had a small crackle come out of that pot but that is it. Ideas?
Click to expand...

I don't think that wire goes there. Find out where it is supposed to go probably one of the volume pots and that will likely get your neck pickup going again.
 
#58
Ok maybe more problems than I thought. When I held the loose wire to the input jack all noise stopped. So I looked at the pics and schematics to verify and soldered it there. Now it has a lesser hum (disappointed with that). Apparently with the tone pot all the way flat it has no hum, crack it just a tad and the hum appears. Apparently it must have been that way when I tested it and thought I found the problem. Also both other pots make noise if I fiddle with them enough. As long as that pickup tests ok I think I am just gonna get all new pots and be done with it.
 
#59
You really have not described scratchiness which is a symptom of bad pots. Maybe you should disconnect all the wiring and run all new wiring double checking along with the schematics and the picture JohNLA sent you.(I also pm'd you a description of the wiring on my 92 Foundation) This way you may find some different wiring issue that no one saw.
 
#60
bassmanrocke said:
You really have not described scratchiness which is a symptom of bad pots. Maybe you should disconnect all the wiring and run all new wiring double checking along with the schematics and the picture JohNLA sent you.(I also pm'd you a description of the wiring on my 92 Foundation) This way you may find some different wiring issue that no one saw.
Click to expand...

They have the scratchiness as well as the hum! :hmm: Thanks, I will check the PM. As far as I can tell from previous pics and schematics it is wired correctly.
 

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