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Peavey IPR 1600 - INTERNAL PHOTOS

#121
In a post somewhere on the boards, BbbyBld, a Peavey employee said this,

"The IPR1600 can be bridged into 8 ohms, but it's kinda tricky. You have to parallel the inputs (no signal inversion or anything, just a straight parallel. Then, you take (+) from channel 1 and (-) from channel 2. Match the gain control on both channels and you're there."

I don't know if power outputs have been quoted or if it's stable bridged into 4 ohms.
 
#126
I never noticed this thread until now. These have been out long enough to know they work fine, no wierd issues. As far as long term reliability, we won't know that for another 15-20 years.

Just an observation---why did they make these things as deep as tbey did? Looking at it, it looks like it could've been maybe 3" shallower? I don't get that. Also if the large caps and coils could be mounted laying on their side somehow, this thing might have been a 1 rackspace poweramp. That would've shot up it's value/appeal more than being a couple inches shallower.

Also, I hate ultrabright leds. Lights on the inside, lightup logo's etc. says cheesy to me. Looks like it belongs in a car trunk.

That said, if my leadsleds ever die, I'd like to replace them with some of these or something similair.....and take out the stupid lights. Talk about losing some weight in the PA rack. I'm not a stickler for everything having to be ultra light as is all the rage now, but that's one piece of equipment I could really appreciate shedding a few pounds.
 
#128
::::BASSIST:::: said:
I am seriously considering pulling the trigger on one of these ipr 1600s.

Two questions:

1. The Tech 21 BDDI / Paradriver is apparently 0db in output. Is that enough to fully drive this amp?

2. Assuming that yes the 1600 is bridgeable at 8 ohms, what wattage would I be getting?
Click to expand...

1. According to the specs in the manual, the input sensitivity for full rated output is .775. Not sure how that converts to dBv, though.

2. Also, per the manual, it seems that bridging into 8 ohms would have the potential to deliver ~1000 watts.

The manual can be found here:
Invalid Link Removed
 
#129
i bought one and sent it back, pronto! cheesy doesn't begin to describe the look, lights, and sound. i'm sure the IPR-3000 has balls, but the tone i got out of the 1600 was less than solid. i quickly replaced it with a Stewart World 1.2 and was way more pleased!!!

the difference was mainly the punch factor. at the same volume, the fundamental (note) had way more body with the Stewart. maybe the Peavey was defective because the output sans signal was noisey.

i've enjoyed great value from Peavey over the past 27 years. i still rock a 215 cab from them, but that cab has never sounded better than when hooked up to the Stewart, IMHO.
maybe that's the difference in performance between Class D vs Class H! YMMV
 
#131
pacojas said:
i bought one and sent it back, pronto! cheesy doesn't begin to describe the look, lights, and sound. i'm sure the IPR-3000 has balls, but the tone i got out of the 1600 was less than solid. i quickly replaced it with a Stewart World 1.2 and was way more pleased!!!

the difference was mainly the punch factor. at the same volume, the fundamental (note) had way more body with the Stewart. maybe the Peavey was defective because the output sans signal was noisey.

i've enjoyed great value from Peavey over the past 27 years. i still rock a 215 cab from them, but that cab has never sounded better than when hooked up to the Stewart, IMHO.
maybe that's the difference in performance between Class D vs Class H! YMMV
Click to expand...

There must be other stuff going on there, as you say, noisy, possible defective amp, etc. Good poweramps all sound pretty much the same, just a full, clean reproduction of what you put in them.

There is enough space in that chassis though, they could've mounted the big caps, etc. on their side and made it 1 rackspace. If you're handy enough, you probably still could with the help of a little extra lead length to join back up with the board.

Peavey made a 1 rackspace poweramp a few years ago, the DPC1400 I think? Regardless, nice stuff. I have a QSC MX700 and a Peavey CS800X that are a bit tough on the back. They refuse to die though, so I still use them.
 
#133
@BurningSkies
@will33

i believe it was defective. i ordered what was advertised as a NEW unit from Amazon. upon arrival, i noticed the item appeared to have been re-packaged, but sold as new. after hooking it to a Demeter HBP-1 it lacked presence at normal home practice volume. i dis-connected the input and swept the gain up to 0db. approx 1/3 of the way it began to distort intermittenly.

it was obviously a Return that was re-shelved and i proceeded to write a long winded scolding and sent it back. i would have gladly excepted a brand new unit, but those lights were just too bright for me. :(
 
#134
pacojas said:
@BurningSkies
@will33

i believe it was defective. i ordered what was advertised as a NEW unit from Amazon. upon arrival, i noticed the item appeared to have been re-packaged, but sold as new. after hooking it to a Demeter HBP-1 it lacked presence at normal home practice volume. i dis-connected the input and swept the gain up to 0db. approx 1/3 of the way it began to distort intermittenly.

it was obviously a Return that was re-shelved and i proceeded to write a long winded scolding and sent it back. i would have gladly excepted a brand new unit, but those lights were just too bright for me. :(
Click to expand...

I'm with you on the lights, but that's pretty far down the list when it comes to price/tone/reliability/portability. I'd just take out the extra lights that are just there for show and don't really tell you anything like power on or clipping, etc.


Amazon doesn't vett it's vendors and doesn't really care who's selling through their service as long as they get the money. Your's must've been defective.
 
#135
I'm still rocking mine. It's sitting idle right now, but most recently was using it to push a 4 piece electro-rock band (edrums, bass synth, synth, guitar+vox) through two EV 2x15+horn PA cabs for practices. Plenty of power.

I sharpied my LEDs long ago, they're still too bright. The stupid, stupid LEDs get bashed by most users. The LEDs are just way too over the top.
 
#138
We use a 1600 for our monitors (4) and it's worked great. It's one of the first ones out and no issues yet. We don't worry too much about what it looks like, but it performs well and is nice and light not adding to the mixer rack weight. The LED lights throw enough light to be usefull for seeing some of the other settings on the IPR and 2 other amps. It's not part of our light show though so not too worried.
 
#139
Rebmo said:
We use a 1600 for our monitors (4) and it's worked great. It's one of the first ones out and no issues yet. We don't worry too much about what it looks like, but it performs well and is nice and light not adding to the mixer rack weight. The LED lights throw enough light to be usefull for seeing some of the other settings on the IPR and 2 other amps. It's not part of our light show though so not too worried.
Click to expand...

Mine sits atop my speakers during our set...center stage. I've had people comment from the audience about how seizure inducingly bright they are. ;)
 
#140
I just finished fixing mine (gig tonight...).

The power relay didn't come on when I pushed the button. So I opened the unit up and traced the front power/LED board's circuit (after determining that that's where the problem was).

There are some interesting design choices in the power board. They're rectifying the incoming AC line to produce about 160 (or 320) volts (on 120VAC or 240VAC inputs). Then there's a long series chain of LEDs in series with the 48V 2304 ohm relay, then a constant-current regulator that's maintaining a constant 25mA or so through the LEDs and the relay when the button is ON.

Unfortunately, when one of the LEDs goes out (there are at least 18 on this board alone), you no longer can turn the unit on. This is what happened in my unit.

I replaced the failed LED with a white one (didn't have any blue ones in my bin), then took some measurements. The voltage across the 48V relay was about 57V, for about 25mA. This is a higher current than many of the through-hole LEDs are rated for, so I paralleled the current regulator's zener diode (which was reading about 8.4V) with a 6.2V zener, reducing the current to about 20mA. This also reduced the dazzling LED brightness somewhat, but it's still way brighter than I need.

There are about 16 surface-mount LEDs on the back side of the board; you could certainly bypass some of the front-facing through hole parts to reduce the brightness of the logo lighting.

I've found, though, that the really annoying LEDs are the signal level monitors by the input level knobs.

I've attached a hand-drawn circuit of that board for any of you who decide to work on yours.
 

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