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Peavey T-40 Club Part 2

:) Thanks! The two I built are similar but very different sounding for a few reasons. The Teiscobird (it looks black but it's a colour called "hand rubbed bronze metallic") body is mahogany from the mid 60's (original MIJ Teisco or Silvertone), the RI Guild Darkstar is a single-coil and the bridge is top-load. The TeiscoT45bird has a basswood body, is string-thru, and has the T-40 pu in the original Gibson T-bird II position. (4" to center from the neck-butt) Everything else (necks, tuners, electronics) are the same. The Teiscobird pu position is more like a Stingray or G&L L-1000. So they both are big sounding, but the T-40 has that thicker hum-bucker tone and the single cuts through more in the mid-range and has the hum with the treble up. To my ears I like them both, but the T-40 gets a bit boomy on its own and needs more volume to fill its place in the mix. For my particular playing style - I'm playing right over the Darkstar where as I'm playing below the T-40. Another player will find their right hand closer to the neck and over the T-40 pu. Both basses weigh about the same (light!) but the basswood TeiscoT45bird is more resonant unplugged. This is partially due to it being string-thru, but the basswood was just more naturally resonant when I did the knuckle-clunk test on both unassembled suspended bodies. Add in a natural difference between mahogany and basswood - the 50yr old mahogany is a softer wood than the (recent) denser basswood. Both necks are maple/rosewood, both basses are strung w/medium rounds, both basses have 500k pots and .047f caps. It's been cool having two basses so similar but due to subtle differences are so different.
Thanks for that. Perfectly answers what I was wondering. I'm not a fan of MM-position-only basses, but in recent years I have found more and more opportunities to play with the bridge position only on my T-40 and dual DS frankenbass. I had a T-45 and it sounded good, but it didn't have the level of perfection that my T-45 had so it went away last year.

One minor point of correction though, I think you meant L-1500 (has the MM'ish position) in refference to the DS'd Tiescobird. The L-1000 (one of my favorite basses that I don't own) has the 'bucker in the P position. Two very sweet basses to be sure.

One other question if I may. What's your general opinion of basswood as a tonewood? I know it doesn't have the best rep here, but I've still got my old (much modded) poplar MIM p-bass and it's instilled in me an acceptance of cheaper and less-pedigreed woods.
 
Thanks for that. Perfectly answers what I was wondering. I'm not a fan of MM-position-only basses, but in recent years I have found more and more opportunities to play with the bridge position only on my T-40 and dual DS frankenbass. I had a T-45 and it sounded good, but it didn't have the level of perfection that my T-45 had so it went away last year.

One minor point of correction though, I think you meant L-1500 (has the MM'ish position) in refference to the DS'd Tiescobird. The L-1000 (one of my favorite basses that I don't own) has the 'bucker in the P position. Two very sweet basses to be sure.

One other question if I may. What's your general opinion of basswood as a tonewood? I know it doesn't have the best rep here, but I've still got my old (much modded) poplar MIM p-bass and it's instilled in me an acceptance of cheaper and less-pedigreed woods.

Ok - just to make sure, I think you meant to type that you like the perfection of your T-40 (not T-45) - which I would like to inquire further about. I have an L-2000, and the neck pu is, like a T-bird II pu, 4" to center from the neck butt. A P is 4-3/4" to center from neck butt. So is a L-1000 pu lower that the neck pu on a L-2000? I guess I assumed it was in the same position, and an L-2000 just added the bridge pu.

Anyway... the sole T-40 pu being at 4" center from the neck butt is good, but I image a second (bridge) pu (ala T-40) would make it better. A Fender P-pu is unique in tone and although the P/J has become so popular, a straight P will always please the ears. But.., a sole bucker like the T-40 pu because it's bigger/longer winds - it tends to overpower a P-pu in an A/B test. (more apt to be boomy) So a double T-40 seems to me that it would balance that and give the same huge delivery but with more tonal control. (especially with the bridge pu being close to the bridge) I own a '64 T-bird II (1 Seth Lover bucker) and played it for years stock. I liked it but wanted more than the boom so I installed a Seymour Duncan "Hawkbucker" (he developed it as a T-bird type bucker but w/rails) Even way back then (80's) I knew it was sacrilegious to mod my bird but it was my only bass and I wanted it to be better. I've never regretted it because it sounds so much better and I played it semiprofessionally for years. (still play it for that matter)

It was the first time I used basswood (solid 1-1/4"slab) and I am very impressed all the way around. It's nearly grain-less, cuts/routs very clean, is light but dense, and is very resonant. I'd see Squiers w/basswood and think - "oh, that must be a cheap substitute for alder" - but I will definitely use it more because regardless of anything it resulted in a quality body.
 
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Ok - just to make sure, I think you meant to type that you like the perfection of your T-40 (not T-45) - which I would like to inquire further about. I have an L-2000, and the neck pu is, like a T-bird II pu, 4" to center from the neck butt. A P is 4-3/4" to center from neck butt. So is a L-1000 pu lower that the neck pu on a L-2000? I guess I assumed it was in the same position, and an L-2000 just added the bridge pu.

Anyway... the sole T-40 pu being at 4" center from the neck butt is good, but I image a second (bridge) pu (ala T-40) would make it better. A Fender P-pu is unique in tone and although the P/J has become so popular, a straight P will always please the ears. But.., a sole bucker like the T-40 pu because it's bigger/longer winds - it tends to overpower a P-pu in an A/B test. (more apt to be boomy) So a double T-40 seems to me that it would balance that and give the same huge delivery but with more tonal control. (especially with the bridge pu being close to the bridge) I own a '64 T-bird II (1 Seth Lover bucker) and played it for years stock. I liked it but wanted more than the boom so I installed a Seymour Duncan "Hawkbucker" (he developed it as a T-bird type bucker but w/rails) Even way back then (80's) I knew it was sacrilegious to mod my bird but it was my only bass and I wanted it to be better. I've never regretted it because it sounds so much better and I played it semiprofessionally for years. (still play it for that matter)

It was the first time I used basswood (solid 1-1/4"slab) and I am very impressed all the way around. It's nearly grain-less, cuts/routs very clean, is light but dense, and is very resonant. I'd see Squiers w/basswood and think - "oh, that must be a cheap substitute for alder" - but I will definitely use it more because regardless of anything it resulted in a quality body.

Yep, my '79 t-40 which I got back in '02 seems like perfection to me. At least as perfect as a big heavy bass can be. It's Rock solid, almost never needs a setup and sounds great. It's got the toaster pups which are thick and warm and round. It doesn't quite have the attack of the later blade models but I really like it. When soloed, The bridge pickup is plenty clear and the neck pickup sounds like a better version of the mudbucker telebass. When fender finally released the two pickup mudbucker telebass I had always dreamed of I plugged it in played it for a few minutes and immediately realised there wasn't a thing it could do that my t-40 couldn't do better.

The '45 sounded very solid, much like a powerful, slightly thicker p-bass. It was of course a blade model pickup and had some of the boomyness but it was still a fairly clear sounding pickup. A toaster pickup in a mid position (was never produced AFAIK) would definitely end up on the muddy side of things. As for mine, when I got it the neck looked like it might be developing a ski jump. A local luther straitened it right out but it was always in the back of my mind that it might happen in the future so I parted with it when I got my Carlo. I already had a P-bass and when I played it I just didn't see when I would rather take it on stage than my T-40, DS frankenbass or my Carlo. That made it easy to let it go as my more recent standard for instruments is would I (assuming I was playing out again) ever take it on stage? It was a fun bass, but if I ever buy another 34" mid-humbucker bass (unlikely at this point) it will be an L-1000. They're both good but I think the 1000 is a better sounding and noticably lighter bass.

As to the G&L's, the numbering is slightly confusing. L-2000 is as you have seen, the L-1500 is basically an L2000 without a neck pickup and the L-1000 has one 'bucker in the middle aproximately in the P-position. I prefer the 1000 to the 1500, but you don't see to many 1500's around. I think folks who want a 1500 just go to for the 2000 for added flexibility.

Thanks for the notes on basswood. I've thought for several years that many of the cheap basses made with basswood sound quite nice and though I'm still comparatively young -and despite my love of the t-40-, I am really coming to appreciate the comfort of a lightweight instrument. When I got my Carlo (basically a 4-94 with 35" scale) the swamp ash body was so incredibly light and comfortable that my weighty 55-01 almost immediately went on the block.

Lastly, here's a neat comparison of the T-40 and T-45 bass pickup positions. There is almost no -perhaps no- overlap between them (see that the -45 has one more fret than the 40).
HPIM0222.jpg

I don't know what kind of insanity the wiring would be but it's hypothetically possible to build a bass that would have the sonic possibilities of the 40, 45, and alot of other variations in the same instrument!
 
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Yep, my '79 t-40 which I got back in '02 seems like perfection to me. At least as perfect as a big heavy bass can be. It's Rock solid, almost never needs a setup and sounds great. It's got the toaster pups which are thick and warm and round. It doesn't quite have the attack of the later blade models but I really like it. When soloed, The bridge pickup is plenty clear and the neck pickup sounds like a better version of the mudbucker telebass. When fender finally released the two pickup mudbucker telebass I had always dreamed of I plugged it in played it for a few minutes and immediately realised there wasn't a thing it could do that my t-40 couldn't do better.

The '45 sounded very solid, much like a powerful, slightly thicker p-bass. It was of course a blade model pickup and had some of the boomyness but it was still a fairly clear sounding pickup. A toaster pickup in a mid position (was never produced AFAIK) would definitely end up on the muddy side of things. As for mine, when I got it the neck looked like it might be developing a ski jump. A local luther straitened it right out but it was always in the back of my mind that it might happen in the future so I parted with it when I got my Carlo. I already had a P-bass and when I played it I just didn't see when I would rather take it on stage than my T-40, DS frankenbass or my Carlo. That made it easy to let it go as my more recent standard for instruments is would I (assuming I was playing out again) ever take it on stage? It was a fun bass, but if I ever buy another 34" mid-humbucker bass (unlikely at this point) it will be an L-1000. They're both good but I think the 1000 is a better sounding and noticably lighter bass.

As to the G&L's, the numbering is slightly confusing. L-2000 is as you have seen, the L-1500 is basically an L2000 without a neck pickup and the L-1000 has one 'bucker in the middle aproximately in the P-position. I prefer the 1000 to the 1500, but you don't see to many 1500's around. I think folks who want a 1500 just go to for the 2000 for added flexibility.

Thanks for the notes on basswood. I've thought for several years that many of the cheap basses made with basswood sound quite nice and though I'm still comparatively young -and despite my love of the t-40-, I am really coming to appreciate the comfort of a lightweight instrument. When I got my Carlo (basically a 4-94 with 35" scale) the swamp ash body was so incredibly light and comfortable that my weighty 55-01 almost immediately went on the block.

Lastly, here's a neat comparison of the T-40 and T-45 bass pickup positions. There is almost no -perhaps no- overlap between them (see that the -45 has one more fret than the 40).
HPIM0222.jpg

I don't know what kind of insanity the wiring would be but it's hypothetically possible to build a bass that would have the sonic possibilities of the 40, 45, and alot of other variations in the same instrument!

Thanks for this valuable information - I've learned a few new things today! The T-40 / T-45 comparison is very interesting. It looks like they could have had a 3rd option that had 3 pu's and like you say, if wired correctly could be like having both versions wrapped into one! (and it would be even heavier!) :laugh: Speaking of which, a heavy bass (over 10lbs) is a deal-breaker for me so there are a few basses out there (like the T-40, the Ibanez Black Eagle, the Ovation Magnum and Ampeg Scroll bass to name a few) that I've had interest in but due to the weight I've never played/owned. But I do like the T-40 pu's and just bought 2 more so eventually they'll end up in a nice light body!
 
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But I do like the T-40 pu's and just bought 2 more so eventually they'll end up in a nice light body!

With your love of vintage style and quest for a lighter bodied T-40 You might find this bit of T-40 pickup maddness inspiring. Wademeister's Peavenbaker.
Build thread:
To build a Peavenbacker!
Some of the pics are dead, but if you scroll down you'll find some good ones.
There's plenty of pics of the finished product (notice how small compared to a Jazz) here:
The T-4003!
Unfortunately he never quite got the sound out of it he wanted, so it was turned into this:
New old bass(Rickodyne Reloaded)

Neat side story on this one. The T-40 that those pups and pots came from became the basis for my DS'd T-40 project.
Completed! T-40 with Darkstars! Added: band practice report!
Eventually I dropped the T-40 body and bridge and ressembled with a custom body and BadassII.
My new T-40/Wal/Decade'ish Frankenbass
The body was sold back to Wademeister and the peavenbacker pups and guts and another neck (I kept the neck on my frankenbass) were reassembled into a complete T-40 that he sold.

The Talkbass circle of life...
 
With your love of vintage style and quest for a lighter bodied T-40 You might find this bit of T-40 pickup maddness inspiring. Wademeister's Peavenbaker.
Build thread:
To build a Peavenbacker!
Some of the pics are dead, but if you scroll down you'll find some good ones.
There's plenty of pics of the finished product (notice how small compared to a Jazz) here:
The T-4003!
Unfortunately he never quite got the sound out of it he wanted, so it was turned into this:
New old bass(Rickodyne Reloaded)

Neat side story on this one. The T-40 that those pups and pots came from became the basis for my DS'd T-40 project.
Completed! T-40 with Darkstars! Added: band practice report!
Eventually I dropped the T-40 body and bridge and ressembled with a custom body and BadassII.
My new T-40/Wal/Decade'ish Frankenbass
The body was sold back to Wademeister and the peavenbacker pups and guts and another neck (I kept the neck on my frankenbass) were reassembled into a complete T-40 that he sold.

The Talkbass circle of life...

Very cool - thanks for forwarding the links. The Ric-esk bass design is good. Enough to allude but not enough to get John Hall sending a cease and desist letter! ;)

I've seen that twin Darkstar Wal/Decade'ish bass - nice build and I bet it sounded big! I really like the DS pu's. These have the Novak Bi-Sonics -

fullsizeoutput_6bf.jpeg


fullsizeoutput_7aa.jpeg
 
... a heavy bass (over 10lbs) is a deal-breaker for me so there are a few basses out there (like the T-40, the Ibanez Black Eagle, the Ovation Magnum and Ampeg Scroll bass to name a few) that I've had interest in but due to the weight I've never played/owned.

As a side remark: having experience with both, the presumed weight problem with the Ovation Magnum seems mostly mythical to me, maybe due to its visuals. It's not what you'd call a real lightweight, but the T-40 is considerably heftier. So is my sen/maple P copy, for that matter.
 
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As a side remark: having experience with both, the presumed weight problem with the Ovation Magnum seems mostly mythical to me, maybe due to its visuals. It's not what you'd call a real lightweight, but the T-40 is considerably heftier. So is my sen/maple P copy, for that matter.

What does the Magnum weigh in at? I lifted one at a resale shop here and it felt heavy. Cool bass though...
 
Very cool - thanks for forwarding the links. The Ric-esk bass design is good. Enough to allude but not enough to get John Hall sending a cease and desist letter! ;)

I've seen that twin Darkstar Wal/Decade'ish bass - nice build and I bet it sounded big! I really like the DS pu's. These have the Novak Bi-Sonics -

View attachment 1063055

View attachment 1063057

Glad you liked them. Seeing the pics above I think I recall commenting and possibly drooling over that Westone a while back. You put together some really cool instruments.
 
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I would actually love to own one of those too, to add to my Peavey set...but my bass funding is dry after the T-40. Love the look of it though...wonder what kind of sound it has.

In case any of you guys like SLANT PUP FURIES!

There's one at the Tacoma, WA GC for $299.99 in the nice NATURAL finish (no case, but ya can't have everything!)

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I would actually love to own one of those too, to add to my Peavey set...but my bass funding is dry after the T-40. Love the look of it though...wonder what kind of sound it has.
If the original electronics are unmodified, it probably sounds like a P-bass with a bit more bite. Maybe a touch of hum in certain situations but defintiely doesn't have the buzz you'd expect from a lone single-coil bass. Unlike the later P-style Furys the neck is classic P-bass but the early body style results in neck dive like a mofo. I had one for a while but sold it due to the combination of neck dive and it wasn't significantly different sounding from my modified MIM P which has more sentimental value to me. I don't double up on instruments anymore.

That one looks to have a stripped and reshaped body and other changes. Compare it:

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to the one I used to have..
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...especially the shape of the upper and lower horns. Also has replaced tuners (mine were original except for the replacment on the E string) which were originally fender'esque open gear clovers. Interestingly the new ones they appear to be the same black schaller-style elephant ear tuners that later peavey basses had (such as the "Foundation S" I used to own). They may have been ordered from Peavey but they would have required drilling of new pilot holes.

Nice enough bass, but $300 for non-original tuners, missing the lovely "P" cast metal knobs and a refin seems like a bit of a stretch.
 
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Waited years to post this...but I just joined the T-40 club! Picked up an '81 off eBay, shipped from Puerto Rico and just arrived today. Looks and sounds great and already joined it's brother Peavey Fury II on the wall. Looking forward to spending some quality time with this bass!

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Very nice! Seems to have a bit of a darker hue to the wood or is that the lighting. Good Score.
 
Now for something completely different - anyone sand down the upper part of the body where the forearm rests? I'm used to the curved jazz bodies and this is hurting the forearm after extended playing periods. Also what about back of neck? What can I do to make this a "faster playing" neck?
 
What year is your T-40? The earlier ones had "slab" bodies, which I do find uncomfortable to play. Peavey got smarter after a few years and contoured the body, so the later models are a little more comfortable, IMHO.

I've owned two beautiful 1979 models, and while I would really, really, really like to have kept one, I just can't get along with the body. :crying: