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Peavey T-40 Club Part 2

#1,141
@DrewinHouston ...."broken in the heel by the body". This implies the nut is still in the pocket. Truss rod nuts have been know to strip their internal threads. The brass is much softer than the steel rod. If your nut turns easily, makes no change in releif but does not move in the pocket, this is most likely what happened. This is more likely than the heel end of the TR turning loose or the rod breaking at a place other than where the threads for the nut end. A thread stripped nut is not easy to remove. You just have to work at it with whatever you can find that will get a grip so you can pull while turning. It's a long process. The nut has to be removed anyway for Chip's TR replacement process which is for broken TRs where the threaded portion of the rod broke off with the nut. There's not room in the TR channel for the nut to go through.
 
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#1,142
Hi folks.

The info I got was originally sent to a Norwegian fella,I got sent copy/paste version. Gotta admire the auld fella's labour saving ways ;) It's been a long day so I'll do the same :laugh:

"To replace a T-series truss rod, drill a 1/2" hole in the butt end of the neck; halfway between the mounting surface and the arched fret board surface. The drill will tell you when you have drilled deep enough as you'll hear the bit contact the butt end steel anchor. Then use a brass or aluminum rod the same diameter as the truss rod to drive the rod out the butt end. When you get about an inch of rod sticking out the butt end, use a bench vise or Vicegrip pliers to pull the rod out the butt end. Affix the butt anchor to the new rod and drive the new rod into the butt end after having smeared some epoxy around the anchor. Put some more epoxy into the drilled surface to hold a bit of 1/2" Maple dowel in the hole. Saw or file the 1/2" dowel off flush with the butt end and spray some clear lacquer over the end.

The new truss rod should be threaded on the peghead end to 10-32 thread. The truss rod kit can be ordered from Stewart MacDonald at StewMac.com or phone 800-848-2273. The kit, with the anchor, washer, and truss rod kit sells for about $10.62 plus shipping."

I expect that price has changed :)

Hope it helps. Time I got fed :thumbsup:
 
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#1,143
mech said:
@DrewinHouston ...."broken in the heel by the body". This implies the nut is still in the pocket. Truss rod nuts have been know to strip their internal threads. The brass is much softer than the steel rod. If your nut turns easily, makes no change in releif but does not move in the pocket, this is most likely what happened. This is more likely than the heel end of the TR turning loose or the rod breaking at a place other than where the threads for the nut end. A thread stripped nut is not easy to remove. You just have to work at it with whatever you can find that will get a grip so you can pull while turning. It's a long process. The nut has to be removed anyway for Chip's TR replacement process which is for broken TRs where the threaded portion of the rod broke off with the nut. There's not room in the TR channel for the nut to go through.
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You're right, the nut on top may be stripped, but my tech indicated that he thought it was broken loose at the bottom (I didn't talk to him directly, I was waiting to get some more information before I brought it back in). There's a slight split in the fretboard at the end of the neck as well, may be related? Anyway, I'll print out this page and take it to him and let you know how it turns out. Thank you @kodiakblair and @mech and @Griffo!

Some pics if folks are interested.
20180609_150228.jpg 20180609_150300.jpg 20180609_150326.jpg 20180609_150314.jpg 20180609_150330.jpg 20180609_150309.jpg 20180609_150337.jpg 20180609_150404.jpg

p.s. This one has kind of a cool serial number.
 
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#1,145
Drucifer said:
You're right, the nut on top may be stripped, but my tech indicated that he thought it was broken loose at the bottom (I didn't talk to him directly, I was waiting to get some more information before I brought it back in). There's a slight split in the fretboard at the end of the neck as well, may be related? Anyway, I'll print out this page and take it to him and let you know how it turns out. Thank you @kodiakblair and @mech and @Griffo!

p.s. This one has kind of a cool serial number.
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The split at the bottom could be related to a rod that has come loose, but it could also be just a spit in the bi-laminate neck that happens sometimes. Defintely need to get that attended to also

Oh, and that is a cool serial number!

I hope it works out but if it all goes south, I've still got a T-40 neck up for sale. It's rosewood and has some miles on it but is solid and works well. Let me know if you're interested.
 
#1,146
Eilif said:
The split at the bottom could be related to a rod that has come loose, but it could also be just a spit in the bi-laminate neck that happens sometimes. Defintely need to get that attended to also

Oh, and that is a cool serial number!

I hope it works out but if it all goes south, I've still got a T-40 neck up for sale. It's rosewood and has some miles on it but is solid and works well. Let me know if you're interested.
Click to expand...
Thanks @Eilif, coincidentally I just got a call from the tech saying they fixed the truss rod problem without drilling, so maybe it was just a stripped nut. I'm going to pick it up Saturday and I'll report back.
 
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#1,147
Who can help?

I don’t have a good understanding of Guitar electronics, but I can follow a wiring diagram and solder well.

I have a T-40 that I’ve brought back from the dead. Cleaned up, oil finished, and refretted the neck and cleaned up the trashed body. I’ve gathered all the parts to make a complete bass. What I am considering is adding a split P pickup, between the two humbuckers. I want the stock T-40 pickup switch, volume and tone pots to act as they should, with the addition of just a volume and tone control for the split P pickup. Phase switch can be deleted. I don’t use it.

Who can send me a diagram?

Thanks in advance.
 
#1,151
kkaarrll said:
Why?
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Lots of reasons. 1) I’ve got 4 T-40s. No one needs 4 basses that sound the same. 2) They’re not expensive, rare, or hard to find. In fact, there seems to be a T-40 in everybody’s grandpa’s closet. 3) This one is a parts bass that I’ve had fun bringing back from the dead. I could sell it or continue to have fun with it. For now, I choose fun. 4) T-40s can sound like almost any bass, except they struggle at sounding like a P bass. To sound like a P, you need a humbucker in the P pickup location. 5) It’s easily reversible with the purchase of an old pickguard off the auction site.

There’s more reasons, but those are the main ones.
 
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#1,155
JEDI BASS said:
Lots of reasons. 1) I’ve got 4 T-40s. No one needs 4 basses that sound the same. 2) They’re not expensive, rare, or hard to find. In fact, there seems to be a T-40 in everybody’s grandpa’s closet. 3) This one is a parts bass that I’ve had fun bringing back from the dead. I could sell it or continue to have fun with it. For now, I choose fun. 4) T-40s can sound like almost any bass, except they struggle at sounding like a P bass. To sound like a P, you need a humbucker in the P pickup location. 5) It’s easily reversible with the purchase of an old pickguard off the auction site.

There’s more reasons, but those are the main ones.
Click to expand...

Cool!
 
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#1,159
Toolmybass said:
Nothing that some eq’ing couldnt fix.
I would imagine there is some pedals that woukd also help nail a P sound.
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Yes and no. Eq and pedals can make alot of things sound like alot of things, but a P-tone is pretty dependent on having a P pickup in the middle position. II'd go one step further than Jedibass and say that you specifically need a P-style split humbucker. That's why even as I've moved on to other basses over the years my (much upgraded) MIM P has stuck around. Nothing else sounds like a P-bass.

As another example, I have a J-bass with Dimarzio Model J's. The Model J's are basically P-pickups in a slim J-casing. Soloing the neck pickup does get pretty close but the position isn't right and it still ain't a P-bass.

Over the 15 years I've had my P-bass it's surprised me at how well it can do the Ric thing or the mudbucker thing, or even a MM style thing and many others. However, I've come to value it most as an instrument in it's own right with it's own very nice voice. It's a super flexible instrument to be sure, but counting on it to be primarily an emulator of other basses rather than it's own thing might set one up for just a bit of discontent.
 
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