Peavey TNT 115 disassembly??

[Bassamatic]

The amp looks really good inside. My tech would immediately replace the large power supply caps - they must be pretty dried out by now. If you were really serious he would replace all the electrolytic (can ) caps. Then open and spray clean all the connectors and then the pots.

The speakers were surely OEM speakers made by several makers to Peavey's spec. In this case it is an Eminence.

 

[agedhorse]

The amp looks really good inside. My tech would immediately replace the large power supply caps - they must be pretty dried out by now. If you were really serious he would replace all the electrolytic (can ) caps. Then open and spray clean all the connectors and then the pots.

A truly qualified tech wouldn’t do any of that unless it was really necessary. Chances are 95+% that all of the caps are fine

 

[bigtone23]

A truly qualified tech wouldn’t do any of that unless it was really necessary. Chances are 95+% that all of the caps are fine

I agree. That amp is from around 2000-2005. The caps are maybe starting to age out, but not quite there yet.

 

[6thplanet]

The amp looks really good inside. My tech would immediately replace the large power supply caps - they must be pretty dried out by now. If you were really serious he would replace all the electrolytic (can ) caps. Then open and spray clean all the connectors and then the pots.

Your tech needs his tech card revoked.

 

[agedhorse]

I agree. That amp is from around 2000-2005. The caps are maybe starting to age out, but not quite there yet.

Yup, they probably gave 20+ years left.

I see a fair number of amps damaged (sometimes beyond economical repair) from “cap replacements” gone wrong.

 

[Pinky the bass]

So, I just bought one of these and regrettably it's too heavy for me to move, so I've decided to chop the top off and make a lighter cab ( or buy another cab if that doesn't work out). Mainly it's the amp I ant most as I like it's look and features. Sorry, long introduction.
I've removed the amp cut the red/yellow/blue speaker wires. I reckon I'll drill a new spk output hole and put in a plastic 1/4 inch socket, but would anyone know how that's wired? And presumably the corresponding input to the cab.
It also, just occurred, could I remove those r/y/b wires entirely and just run from the extra speaker socket already in place.
Sorry if that's long.

 

[agedhorse]

So, I just bought one of these and regrettably it's too heavy for me to move, so I've decided to chop the top off and make a lighter cab ( or buy another cab if that doesn't work out). Mainly it's the amp I ant most as I like it's look and features. Sorry, long introduction.
I've removed the amp cut the red/yellow/blue speaker wires. I reckon I'll drill a new spk output hole and put in a plastic 1/4 inch socket, but would anyone know how that's wired? And presumably the corresponding input to the cab.
It also, just occurred, could I remove those r/y/b wires entirely and just run from the extra speaker socket already in place.
Sorry if that's long.

Probably should think this through a little more, but I bet you already started the hack?

On some Peavey combos, where there are 4 wires from the amp to the speaker, 2 wires are for the woofer and 2 wires are for the tweeter. Assuming that the tweeter is a compression driver, the crossover for the tweeter is located in the power amp and not the speaker cabinet.

First, you need to figure out what you have going on, I would suggest this BEFORE hacking on it.

 

[AudioTaper]

So, I just bought one of these and regrettably it's too heavy for me to move, so I've decided to chop the top off and make a lighter cab ( or buy another cab if that doesn't work out). Mainly it's the amp I ant most as I like it's look and features. Sorry, long introduction.
I've removed the amp cut the red/yellow/blue speaker wires. I reckon I'll drill a new spk output hole and put in a plastic 1/4 inch socket, but would anyone know how that's wired? And presumably the corresponding input to the cab.
It also, just occurred, could I remove those r/y/b wires entirely and just run from the extra speaker socket already in place.
Sorry if that's long.

Yellow and blue are usually for the 15" driver. Check the polarity at the speaker because its not always consistent, but yellow is supposed to be +, blue is -. The red is the + to the horn and it probably shares the - with the 15. See how the internal speaker wires are connected. There are different models of TNT amps and someone may have gotten in there already and reassembled it incorrectly.

What are you using for speaker wire and connections since you have 3 conductors? If you haven't started yet, I would take a minute and plan this out thoroughly. Or look into a lightweight head and stand alone speaker cabinet

 

[Pinky the bass]

I'm really grateful for the responses, as you guessed, I'm a bull in a China shop.
So I've ordered some stero 1/4 inch sockets, the kind that won't connect to the casing. Looking at the wiring I' going solder the yellow(s) to the tip, blue(s) to the sleeve and red(s) to the ring and connect the amp to the cab via a stereo 1/4 Jack lead) If I position the sockets right, I shouldn't nee any extra wire.
See any pitfalls with that?

 

[FirewalZ]

I started out with a Peavey TNT 115 back in 1978. Used it up until the mid 90's. That thing was built like a tank and totally reliable. Only thing that failed was the speaker cone. And THAT was after 14 years of very heavy use. I replaced it with a JBL, and it was still working when I sold it a couple of years afterward. Peavey really built things to last back in the day. Whether it was instrument amps, power amps, or whatever, it was dependable stuff.

Same, sounded generic but throw it down a staircase, fall off the truck, stop a few bullets, it would fire right up.

 

[agedhorse]

I'm really grateful for the responses, as you guessed, I'm a bull in a China shop.
So I've ordered some stero 1/4 inch sockets, the kind that won't connect to the casing. Looking at the wiring I' going solder the yellow(s) to the tip, blue(s) to the sleeve and red(s) to the ring and connect the amp to the cab via a stereo 1/4 Jack lead) If I position the sockets right, I shouldn't nee any extra wire.
See any pitfalls with that?

Pitfalls? Yeah, pretty much everything you have posted above so far.

#1 - A stereo jack (socket) is fine but there is NO connection to the ring terminal UNLESS you are presuming to use the cabinet portion with that head ONLY.

#2 - The tweeter is a piezo device and there are components on the power amp PCB that are used to protect the amp from the piezo load, so you MUST have the equivalent of these components in the circuit if you intend on using the cabinet with another amp.

#3 - The better (safer) alternative is to simply disconnect the tweeter, not use the red wire from the amp and only connect the yellow to tip and blue to sleeve (leaving the ring unterminated). This way the amp and the cabinet will be safe(r) to use in the real world where mistakes get made.

 

[Pinky the bass]

Pitfalls? Yeah, pretty much everything you have posted above so far.

#1 - A stereo jack (socket) is fine but there is NO connection to the ring terminal UNLESS you are presuming to use the cabinet portion with that head ONLY.

#2 - The tweeter is a piezo device and there are components on the power amp PCB that are used to protect the amp from the piezo load, so you MUST have the equivalent of these components in the circuit if you intend on using the cabinet with another amp.

#3 - The better (safer) alternative is to simply disconnect the tweeter, not use the red wire from the amp and only connect the yellow to tip and blue to sleeve (leaving the ring unterminated). This way the amp and the cabinet will be safe(r) to use in the real world where mistakes get made.

You are amazing, I'll definitely go for option 3, not bothered about the tweeter. Probably be able to shave some weight off the cab too.
I am so grateful for your wisdom and patience. I've always been a "how hard can it be" kind of chap. Turns out this one was harder, but I have learned a lot along the way.

 

[agedhorse]

The piezo tweeter is maybe 6 ounces... don't remove it from the cabinet because the open hole will impact the cabinet tuning.

 

[Pinky the bass]

The piezo tweeter is maybe 6 ounces... don't remove it from the cabinet because the open hole will impact the cabinet tuning.

Ok, thanks again.

 

[droffig]

Only amp you can pour beer directly into, roll down the stairs and store outside. If they were a wee lighter. You wouldn't need anything else. I sold my 1977 TNT 130 a few years ago.
Looked new and is still running smooth

why sell that one, my genius