Oh, I see! Thanks for the clarification!on a normal jazz bass the question is moot, the pot cases are already grounded by virtue of being all bolted to the same metal plate with the output jack.
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Oh, I see! Thanks for the clarification!on a normal jazz bass the question is moot, the pot cases are already grounded by virtue of being all bolted to the same metal plate with the output jack.
anyway, here it is, gang!
series, master volume and individual tones, with each tone only affecting its own pickup.
(@sunbeast, @honeyiscool, @line6man please check my work)
View attachment 2420149
for old time's sake i even used the same colors and the same stupid microsoft paint program from my first series diagram to do it (wow, what a steaming turd of an art app that is!)
i tested this on a goofy cort steinberger copy with a PJ setup and terrible pickups, so i haven't really heard it at its best with a proper jazz bass but i know the principle works.
i could tell that using .05μF caps definitely changed the sound when i turned one down but it still had kind of a "two pickups" tone; going to .1μF made dumping a tone sound much more like the other pickup by itself, but it still kept the series boost on the very low end.
the trade off of the .1 caps is that if you want to actually roll the tone down on the entire signal by dropping both tone knobs, it gets really dark.
(edit: wait, maybe not! i wasn't looking at it right, but when both tones are turned down, that puts the two caps in series too! that means the capacitance halves, so the two .1 caps become an .05, which is not so bad.)
try it with what you have and see, no harm in it.2nd- Do I really need to use 500k pots and .1 caps or can I keep my stocks 250K pots and 47 nF caps (and add another one for the second tone) ?
ehh, the P is already a series humbucker, so putting another coil in series with it will probably be noisy and muddy.Any issue if I put the P and the J pickups in series ?
Would swapping the pickups give more mid presence to the neck? I see the neck is basically running through an lc tank—just wondering what your observations were.anyway, here it is, gang!
series, master volume and individual tones, with each tone only affecting its own pickup.
(@sunbeast, @honeyiscool, @line6man please check my work)
View attachment 2420149
for old time's sake i even used the same colors and the same stupid microsoft paint program from my first series diagram to do it (wow, what a steaming turd of an art app that is!)
i tested this on a goofy cort steinberger copy with a PJ setup and terrible pickups, so i haven't really heard it at its best with a proper jazz bass but i know the principle works.
i could tell that using .05μF caps definitely changed the sound when i turned one down but it still had kind of a "two pickups" tone; going to .1μF made dumping a tone sound much more like the other pickup by itself, but it still kept the series boost on the very low end.
the trade off of the .1 caps is that if you want to actually roll the tone down on the entire signal by dropping both tone knobs, it gets really dark.
(edit: wait, maybe not! i wasn't looking at it right, but when both tones are turned down, that puts the two caps in series too! that means the capacitance halves, so the two .1 caps become an .05, which is not so bad.)
not sure what you mean; swapping them for what?Would swapping the pickups give more mid presence to the neck?
might be OK but again, they're already series humbuckers so wiring them in series with each other might be "too much series" and an overwhelming, muddy toneI have the SD Apollos (side by side humbuckers in a jazz pickup body)—which may be overkill—but what the hey!
tons of threads about that, linear volumes on basses give a more even sweep through the whole range instead of the steep jump between "7" and "10" of audio volumesAlso was curious about the linear pot choice on the volume.
I mean to swap them with each other as they are drawn in the schematic. Sorry if wasn’t clear! It just seems that the pickups are not treated equally when the other pickup’s tone (either/or) is turned down—and that therefore swapping the neck for the bridge would have some effect.not sure what you mean; swapping them for what?
might be OK but again, they're already series humbuckers so wiring them in series with each other might be "too much series" and an overwhelming, muddy tone
now if you wired each pickup in parallel with itself then put the pair in series, that might be a good balance
tons of threads about that, linear volumes on basses give a more even sweep through the whole range instead of the steep jump between "7" and "10" of audio volumes
i don't think they're electronically behaving any different from each other in the circuitI mean to swap them with each other as they are drawn in the schematic.
my usual response to that is “we don’t plug basses into our ear”I didn’t realize that about the linear sweep and bass relationship. When the guitar forums talk about it, the reasoning for audio pots is always evidenced by “how the ear perceives sound,”
Yeah this is my experience as well, though I rarely use the volume control on a passive bass except for blending purposes (like on a Jazz Bass) I always use linear taper unless I've been too lazy to mod the electronics. Audio taper is useful for doing pinky swells IME on guitar as well, but as you say it depends on the amount of drive/compression/etc in the signal path.my usual response to that is “we don’t plug basses into our ear”
with typical guitars running through compressed and distorted amps, you do want audio taper volumes to have an even response going from clean to crunchy on the volume knob
with basses (and clean jazz guitars) and their typical clean signal chains, linear volumes do a better job of smoothly raising and lowering the actual loudness over the full sweep of the knob
(tone pots needs to be audio taper either way or the entire sound change gets squished into the low numbers)
Ah! Thank you for the explanation. This is actually much clearer than what I was reading. That being said, I play with a moderate amount of compression and my volume backed off (roughly: 75% neck/50%bridge/35%tone). The only time I change my settings is when I roll my tone all the way down for certain songs.my usual response to that is “we don’t plug basses into our ear”
with typical guitars running through compressed and distorted amps, you do want audio taper volumes to have an even response going from clean to crunchy on the volume knob
with basses (and clean jazz guitars) and their typical clean signal chains, linear volumes do a better job of smoothly raising and lowering the actual loudness over the full sweep of the knob
(tone pots needs to be audio taper either way or the entire sound change gets squished into the low numbers)