Persistent problem with Spector Bass input jack

[GMO]

I have been using the Spector Legend 5 Custom bass for the past 7 years, and it has delivered a great variety of tones, dynamics, playability, comfort, etc. In general it has been a great and powerful ally.

The only problem that has followed me with this bass, it’s in the electronics department (more specifically its input jack). I bought this bass brand new from a local store, which was a dealer of Spector basses, and about a few months later it started giving crackle and popping sounds when I moved a little with the instrument cable. I thought it was the cable, which was an audio tecnica instrument cable, but I used the line with my other basses and it was fine. Also I always place the instrument cable were there is no pressure on the it. I took the bass to the store, since the bass was still new, and they covered the luthier’s job cost and the problem was solved. Then about a year later it started to give me the same problem, so he changed the jack once again, but this turned out to be a routine for the next 4 years. I had to change its jack about 2 times a year and sometimes maybe more. I was getting impatient with this routine since none of my fellow musicians (bassists and guitarist) came across this kind of situation. After I went to various luthiers, last year I came across with a luthier that notice a pattern with the jacks and the fact was that every time I took the bass to him he would see that the jacks were covered in a green substance, that was caused by humidity by storing and leaving the bass inside its hard-shell case every time I finished gigging or practicing. So I started to place the bass in a rack stand like he told me, were it wouldn’t getting at much as humidity as inside the case. I started using monster bass cable, because I received such great rep from those instrument cables, and the same problem started to arise again (cracking and popping sounds). The luthier told me that monster cables tend to wear the input jacks in basses and guitars alike. I heard that they fixed this problem though I don’t know with which line they did so. I checked first if the cable was malfunctioning with my other bass and the cable was intact. This time the jack had no green corrosion inside its electronics neither in the input jack. The luthier has never seen this kind of persisting problem, and he is one of the respected luthiers in Puerto Rico, and neither of the other luthiers in the island. He recommended me to buy a switchcraft ¼ stereo input jack or a neutrik.

Has anyone been through the same problem or know a way to fix it? This bass has a lot of sentimental value, and I don’t want to get rid of it. Any suggestions and recommendations will be appreciated.

THANK YOU!

GMO

 

[lz4005]

Output jack.

They wear out.

 

[Dave W]

^^^That

Replace it, it's very easy

 

[RobbieK]

^^ I believe if you haven't the curtesy to actually read the entire post, you shouldn't respond.

Of course, jacks wear out, especially side-mounted jacks. And they are cheap and easy to replace. The OP is too well aware of this!

But even with daily use, they should last more than 6 months. I've a bass from the 80's with it's original side mount jack and it works perfectly. If I was replacing a jack twice a year for seven years, I'd be fed up with it also.

switchcraft ¼ stereo input jack or a neutrik.

I agree with this recommendation. But I'd strongly recommend buying one from a reputable guitar parts store. There are a lot of copies these days, and the plating quality at the contacts is one place that these fall down. And for that matter, I'd also recommend a guitar lead with (genuine) neutrik plugs.

Maybe you already do this, but if not, I'd recommend looping your lead up over the strap button in a loose way. This will remove some strain on the socket, and if you play seated a lot, use a lead with right angled plugs.

If all this still fails, perhaps you could have the bass modified to use a non-barrel type jack as these tend to be more robust. You could have it on the side with a "football" or square plate. Usually this involves widening the mounting hole in the timber. This is a very common mod for touring pros. You may also be able to mount a jack on the front, depending on if the controls can be shuffled to free up a hole.

 

[GMO]

^^ I believe if you haven't the curtesy to actually read the entire post, you shouldn't respond.

Of course, jacks wear out, especially side-mounted jacks. And they are cheap and easy to replace. The OP is too well aware of this!

But even with daily use, they should last more than 6 months. I've a bass from the 80's with it's original side mount jack and it works perfectly. If I was replacing a jack twice a year for seven years, I'd be fed up with it also.



I agree with this recommendation. But I'd strongly recommend buying one from a reputable guitar parts store. There are a lot of copies these days, and the plating quality at the contacts is one place that these fall down. And for that matter, I'd also recommend a guitar lead with (genuine) neutrik plugs.

Maybe you already do this, but if not, I'd recommend looping your lead up over the strap button in a loose way. This will remove some strain on the socket, and if you play seated a lot, use a lead with right angled plugs.

If all this still fails, perhaps you could have the bass modified to use a non-barrel type jack as these tend to be more robust. You could have it on the side with a "football" or square plate. Usually this involves widening the mounting hole in the timber. This is a very common mod for touring pros. You may also be able to mount a jack on the front, depending on if the controls can be shuffled to free up a hole.

Thank you for your quick response and recommendations. Yes I bought the switchcraft input jack from allparts.com, and it should be arriving by tomorrow.Yes, I also loop the cable through the strap so it doesn’t strain the socket.

Also in the past I noticed that every time that the crackle sounds came back, it was because the jack got loose (by the use I suppose). Usually the place where the input made contact with the line was spread, so the tip of the cable kept moving inside the socket. It was corrected immediately just by pressing the angles of the jack so when the line made contact with the input jack it stayed tight. I checked it again, but it is locked in tight. Hopefully the new input jack should do the trick, in order to stop this continuous hazing to me, my bass, and my amp.

 

[dukeisdog]

I don't think you'll be able to "see" the monster cable causing wear and tear on your output jack, but I too have heard of problems with their cable and have switched out the output jack on my Euro 5 twice too. I also use monster cables. I'd suggest trying new cables (sucks if you paid full price for your cables, they're not cheap, but no better then anything else IMO) but you'll be better off with a different cord.

I believe the problem is the jack on the monsters are slightly wider then the 1/4" so over time it causes the connection to be shoddy.