I’d have to say vintage. I’ve questioned whether I should go the pj route and just get a vintage p. I have a Jazz and a few Jazz like basses too so I can get the J sound from a j or j like bass…
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
PJ Basses
- Thread starter conttador
- Start date
From approximate center of one string to another, 19 mm... so, maybe 18 mm between each, depending on the gauge of the strings.
Smooth_bass88
vaxx!
- Oct 31, 2006
- 12,122
- 16,793
- Disclosures
- have been on nationally released albums, charting on the Billboard 200
If you want to move away from the "Fender sphere" a bit, take a look at the Mayones Jabba Hadrien Feraud PJ4:
Mayones Jabba HF PJ 4-String Spruce Sunburst (Serial #JAB1807218) | Reverb
(disclaimer: not me selling this one!)
HADRIEN FERAUD - MAYONES JABBA PJ SIGNATURE BASS - it's great! - YouTube
Mayones Jabba HF PJ 4-String Spruce Sunburst (Serial #JAB1807218) | Reverb
(disclaimer: not me selling this one!)
HADRIEN FERAUD - MAYONES JABBA PJ SIGNATURE BASS - it's great! - YouTube
Last edited:
ESP offers a variety of PJ basses in its LTD line.
The AP series of PJs have active electronics and more slender J style necks. The 204 has what I think are passive pickups with an active preamp (vol/bal/bass-treble stack) whereas the AP-4 is a unique animal with active EMG pickups and a simple vol/bal/tone control layout. Products - AP Series Basses - The ESP Guitar Company
The '87 series of PJs are more traditional with passive electronics (Duncan pickups, vol/bal/tone controls) and wider P style necks.
These may not at all be what the OP is looking for, but anyone else seeking out a PJ bass might find this information useful.
The AP series of PJs have active electronics and more slender J style necks. The 204 has what I think are passive pickups with an active preamp (vol/bal/bass-treble stack) whereas the AP-4 is a unique animal with active EMG pickups and a simple vol/bal/tone control layout. Products - AP Series Basses - The ESP Guitar Company
The '87 series of PJs are more traditional with passive electronics (Duncan pickups, vol/bal/tone controls) and wider P style necks.
These may not at all be what the OP is looking for, but anyone else seeking out a PJ bass might find this information useful.
Trie
“A tad”!!? I had to laugh at some comments made when the Ultra was released. Nowadays I hear Elite owners admitting they prefer the sound and feel of the Ultra. Not all but enough to know many jumped the gun too early. Had mine nearly four years and it’s still dreamy. Great tone, fabulous feel. No, it doesn’t have a truss wheel AND I DON’T CARE!
“A tad”!!? I had to laugh at some comments made when the Ultra was released. Nowadays I hear Elite owners admitting they prefer the sound and feel of the Ultra. Not all but enough to know many jumped the gun too early. Had mine nearly four years and it’s still dreamy. Great tone, fabulous feel. No, it doesn’t have a truss wheel AND I DON’T CARE!
I have only played Jazz basses and just jumped into the PJ realm.
I picked up a Reverend Decision P which has a reverse P pickup.
It certainly is not a Jazz sound wise, and not a P.
I’m slowly figuring out the sound and nuance’s of this setup.
I picked up a Reverend Decision P which has a reverse P pickup.
It certainly is not a Jazz sound wise, and not a P.
I’m slowly figuring out the sound and nuance’s of this setup.
One of the things I really appreciate about my BB (a 735, so one of the newer models) is that the bridge pickup isn't in that 70s position so close to the bridge. It's the first PJ bass where I've actually preferred the sound of both pickups on full rather than just the neck pickup.
My two other PJs have their bridge pickup much closer to the bridge and it sounds tinny and nasal, which is not at all the sound I want out of my instrument.
pulling together the right parts and assembling them into the perfect playing ax that you want is, IMO/IME, the best way to get a custom FSO. you have control over the cost (which parts you use), the look (your choice of parts + any custom/personal modifications), but more importantly: the way it plays/feels, balances, and sounds!
my favorite P-bass(es):
6 lbs. and 7 lbs., respectively.
my favorite PJ:
7.2 lbs.
my FSOs play equal to or better than fender products, weigh much less (i put them together to be lightweight), and cost 20%-30% of their namesake comparables. i put in some time/effort to make them look nice (the "kid stuff"), but it's the 'playability' that really makes these parts specimens special.
i post --- and push
--- the parts-bass idea when folks are looking for cheaper alternatives to the usual off-the-rack fender choices, or to folks who want more customization than the big companies offer. TL;DR: bottom line: a good PJ is a great alternative (and addition) to the Ps and Js! you can make one yourself with parts!
good luck with your P/PJ quest!
I/ve had a PJ. Eventually I came to the conclusion that the bridge pickup was unnescessary baggage for my applications.
If you're looking for quality control that's at a somewhat higher standard that stuff that's rolled out of a factory in big numbers, I'll suggest a hard look at Sandberg and Maruszczyk. Many builders are doing very good things for us these days, but these two labels seem to be packing as much bass for our buck into their instruments as just about anybody else.
I got lucky a few years ago when I found a rather unique no-name PJ in the classifieds here (it's become my #1 player by a healthy margin) and if I needed to shop for something to replace it today, my first option would be to try a Maruszczyk Elwood.
A humbucker tends to pair way better with a P than a J pickup does. I’m quite fond of a Nordstrand Big Split in the 60s position as a remedy to the typical shortfalls of a J pickup in the bridge.
For all you pj players…
Do you play both pickups primarily or one or the other?
When do you split them and why?
I think the responses may have me leaning towards buying a vintage p but not sure just yet…
Do you play both pickups primarily or one or the other?
When do you split them and why?
I think the responses may have me leaning towards buying a vintage p but not sure just yet…
We play classic/prog rock covers... when in rotation, almost always have the G&L bass neck pickup full on, bridge backed off maybe 20%, and tone at about 50%.
It's aggressive, but it is definitely heard amongst a couple of Marshall cabs, acoustic drums, and keys competing for the same spectrum.
It's aggressive, but it is definitely heard amongst a couple of Marshall cabs, acoustic drums, and keys competing for the same spectrum.
I guess this is a good excuse to show off the PJ bass that I built for my long-time friend a few months ago for his birthday.
It turned out pretty sweet - he's already gigged with it multiple times.
(The bonus is that he donated his old Squier J to a school.)
I had a lot of the parts already from previous builds, but it would be about $850+ from scratch.
I had a great time putting this together, and the feel, tone, and overall balance is on par with CS, dare I say!
It turned out pretty sweet - he's already gigged with it multiple times.
(The bonus is that he donated his old Squier J to a school.)
I had a lot of the parts already from previous builds, but it would be about $850+ from scratch.
I had a great time putting this together, and the feel, tone, and overall balance is on par with CS, dare I say!
I have four PJ basses but two are Reverse PJ.......P and Reverse P are subtleties, and just A/B-ing by themselves I don't hear much..Where I notice the difference is either in the context of the band or on a recording: The Reverse P seems to have more of an even tone color distribution and has a slightly more aggressive quality that I prefer......This is my 1989 MIJ Fender Power Jazz Bass Special and its one of my current favorite instruments and it has the Reverse P
I absolutely love my LTD AP-5, so I would recommend the LTD AP-4. EMG active pickups, but no onboard EQ, just typical passive controls which I like way more than typical active basses with lots of knobs. I've barely touched my other basses since I got this bass last year, it has effectively replaced all of them. Looks like Sweetwater has them in black or red, and there's a blue color that is on Reverb. If you want something less modern and more vintage, LTD also has their Surveyor line. I haven't yet tried one, but it's been super tempting to buy one to try and replace my Squier P bass.
I bought a set that was engineered to work together, and used a 3 way switch. I get 100% P, 100% PJ, or 100% J. That way the pickups don't interfere with each other. Works great!
