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Please recommend old roundwound strings for 60s type P-Bass?

Fender still makes pure nickel rounds- the 7150's, the packaging is different though.

I have a fresh set yet to install, so no comment on the tone or feel.

Please let us know what you think.

In MY opinion the Fender 7150 pure nickels are HORRIBLE strings. They are probably the stiffest and least articulate roundwounds you'll ever find (when comparing similar gauges of course). They may have a "warm" tone in the sense of "lacking highs" but it's not a FAT tone. The stiffness prevents the strings from vibrating properly, which means they won't develop a nice "bloom" or fat lows. The tone is all about a hollow/nasal sounding mid range. Possibly the worst roundwounds I've ever tried, and I REALLY wanted to like these strings because I'm a fan of "the pure nickel tone". Unfortunately the only strings that offer that tone today are (in my opinion) the Pyramid Pure Nickels.

Maybe the Fenders could have worked better with slightly lighter gauges (the D and G-strings were particularly stiff and lacking articulation). Unfortunately they are (as far as I can tell) only available as 45-105. Which is usually my preferred gauges for roundwounds but these 7150s were HORRIBLY stiff.
 
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Seems to have a little less mids than the original one here. But also the original one has other strings, so it's hard to compare.

But I am talking about a 60s style P Bass - means rather dark and warm sounding, not a 70s style with snappy maple fingerboard but Rosewood and the like. (I played some Classic Vibe 60s P basses in the past and the pickups go in the same direction as other 60s vintage style P Bass pickpus.) I think you know what I mean.


But the Classic Vibe 60s aren't really built to 60s specs. They use different woods for both the body and the fretboard, different nut width, different fretboard radius, different type saddles, different fretwire, different spec pickups, different value tone cap, different finish. All of this affects the tone and the "feel" of the instrument (although Fender's actual 60s pickups were all over the place so I guess there might be a couple out there that by pure chance will sound close to the pickups in the CV60s;)).

The Classic Vibe instruments are meant to broadly catch the visual aesthetics and "vibe" of each era. Not to be exact replicas. The CV60 and CV70 won't differ in tone/feel anywhere near as much as actual 60s vs 70s P-basses. And they won't 100% nail the tone/feel of either. The CVs are nice basses in their own right though! Just don't get too hung up on Fender's use of year numbers in their marketing, it's just marketing BS.
 
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Load that P-bass with Thomastik JAZZ ROUNDS.
They start out mellow, and will progress accordingly... plus they are THE BEST FEELING ROUNDWOUNDS EVER MADE!

I wish people recommending these stings would mention that they only come in ONE gauge: 043-051-068-089. Yeah, that's right, a .089 E-string. As great sounding as these strings are (and they really sound AMAZING) these gauges are WAY too light for most bass players. I don't think it's very helpful to post stuff like "BEST ROUNDWOUNDS EVER!!!" about strings that will clearly not work for the majority of bass players, no matter how much YOU like them.
 
Don't use Rotosound 66 strings on your vintage anything! They will eat your frets! Round wound strings were made by Fender and other companies. Maybe not as bright as Rotos but much friendlier to your frets.
I recommend GHS Bass Boomers for round wound strings that age well and sound great on everything.
Lots of other choices other that Rotosound 66 strings. Ask Rickenbacker why they stopped their warranty if you used any strings other than their own brand. Rotosounds killed more Rickenbacker basses that any Who concert antics.

This is pure myth. I've used Roto 66s on various basses for over 30 years and I have NEVER experienced any unusual fret wear. Rotos may feel slightly rougher under the fingers than many other roundwounds but that's it.

The myth about Rotos eating frets probably started because Rickenbacker used extremely poor quality fretwire back in the day. People loved the Rick+Roto combination. When the frets on Ricks wore out prematurely (which they would have with ANY roundwounds) Roto somehow got the blame. I wouldn't be surprised if this lie was started by John Hall of RIC. He did something similar with Pyramid strings, basically blaming them when the poorly constructed tail pieces on Rickenbacker 12-string guitars shattered.
 
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I have acidic hands. Stainless strings last, Nickels die too hi quickly.

Roto 66’s are by far my favourites. I use the Billy Sheehan Signature version with equal tension. E string thicker (.105 vs .100), G string slightly thinner (.043 vs .045) IIRC.
If you ever detuned the E string it makes a massive difference.
 
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GHS Boomers can sound good on a P bass, but they seem to be pretty divisive among bassists. I also like plain old Ernie Ball Slinky’s.

The main criticism against Boomers seems to be that they go dead very fast (which they certainly do). This may not matter if the OP want the tone of "old" strings. In fact, it might even be an advantage.

Having said that, there are other strings I personally think will age far more gracefulle than Boomers. When Boomers get old they go rather dead and.... boomy.:D
 
I have acidic hands. Stainless strings last, Nickels die too hi quickly.

Roto 66’s are by far my favourites. I use the Billy Sheehan Signature version with equal tension. E string thicker (.105 vs .100), G string slightly thinner (.043 vs .045) IIRC.
If you ever detuned the E string it makes a massive difference.

But unless I'm missing something here the OP specifically wants the tone of "old" strings, which means he probably WANTS strings that "die" quickly. (And I would actually have Roto 66s pretty high on that list... great sounding strings though:thumbsup:).
 
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The main criticism against Boomers seems to be that they go dead very fast (which they certainly do). This may not matter if the OP want the tone of "old" strings. In fact, it might even be an advantage.

Having said that, there are other strings I personally think will age far more gracefulle than Boomers. When Boomers get old they go rather dead and.... boomy.:D

The fact they go dead quickly is actually the reason I like them. Though, I’m using “dead” more in the sense they break in quickly and loose that bright “new string” sound. After that, for myself anyway, they can last a long time. I think I had one set on a J bass for well over a year and only changed them because I wanted to try something different.
 
But unless I'm missing something here the OP specifically wants the tone of "old" strings, which means he probably WANTS strings that "die" quickly. (And I would actually have Roto 66s pretty high on that list... great sounding strings though:thumbsup:).
You missed the ‘too quickly’ comment. Had some nickels completely die in 1 week. Returned them saying they were faulty.

Roto stainless die the perfectly right way. I worked in a music store, did guitar tech work, and have played for 36 years (34 years gigging). I’ve learned a few things along the way.

Studio engineer for a major label in a recording session heard my P bass with old Rotos and immediately exclaimed ‘Now THAT’S what a P bass should sound like!’. He knew a thing or too as well.
 
You missed the ‘too quickly’ comment. Had some nickels completely die in 1 week. Returned them saying they were faulty.

Roto stainless die the perfectly right way. I worked in a music store, did guitar tech work, and have played for 36 years (34 years gigging). I’ve learned a few things along the way.

Studio engineer for a major label in a recording session heard my P bass with old Rotos and immediately exclaimed ‘Now THAT’S what a P bass should sound like!’. He knew a thing or too as well.

Too quickly for YOU could be perfect for someone who is looking for the tone of old strings, which is specifically what the OP asked about. Besides, making a blanket statement about nickel strings dying "too quickly" based on an experience you had with ONE set that you perceived as faulty just doesn't make sense. Lots of bass players use nickel strings on a daily basis and are very happy with them.

Roto stainless steels may die in the "perfectly right way" for YOU but the main complaints about these strings, from MOST players that use them is that Rotos go "dead" too fast. For what it's worth I agree with you on this one. I love the tone of old, broken in Roto 66 steels. It's one of my favourite strings on a P-bass.

But although I agree with some of the things you said I don't think it's very helpful to present your personal opinions as FACTS the way you did. Finding the right strings is very much a matter of personal taste. And half the people posting in this thread don't even seem to have bothered reading the OPs description of what he's looking for.
 
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I love P Basses and am going to get a Classic Vibe 60s P Bass soon again. I'd love to put Flatwounds on it but I also do love the sound of old Roundwounds.

What are your experiences for great roundwound strings that sound awesome when they are old on an 60s type Precision bass?
RotoSound R55LC
they’re a hybrid string not flat, round , or ground
It’s hard to describe them. They give you a good round wound performance without chewing up your frets nor your fingers
 
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I discovered way back that Rotos are almost two different strings in one.
There is the bright sound that people buy them for and the less bright, more balanced sound that they reach after days to weeks of use.
There are some players that never knew about the years of use still in them after the bite fades.
There's folks like me that like having a full spectrum to work with 24/7: I want that brightness for songs and situations that require modern tone, if I need to darken it for classic tone, I use the bass tone controls, switch pluck hand position neckward, and/or solo the front pickup.....this way, I can revert back to bright modern tone in an instant......if my strings are weeks old and broken in, it handicaps myself for that flexibility.Ymmv
 
Apparently, there was a slight confusion here. Actually, I'm not sure what a "60's style" P bass is. Sure, there are some reissues, but they don't mean much to me. Apart from some specs (neck profile, fret size etc.) and color schemes, how close they reproduce the sound? How the sound differ from just a contemporary P-bass that is not marketed as a 60's or whatever?
Squier is another story yet. CV's are decent instruments for sure (still regretting selling my Chinese-made 2009 CV), but they are not Fenders, much less vintage Fenders.
So, at the end of this lengthy discussion, I'm not quite sure what the question is/was.
If the question is about dead rounds, IMO any roundwounds would do. They all sound like... erm dead, needing replacement.

I think Squier Classic Vibe Basses are clearly Fenders, cheaper produced in Indonesia, with another name on the headstock. They even put the Fender name on some of those Basses made in China in the past. So for me a Squier is a cheaper line Fender. Just as Fender Rumble Amps and cabinets are cheaper made in Asia Fender products with Eminence speakers, cheaper made in China.

To explain it better - for me a 60s Style P Bass is a Bass that aims to sound like a 60s P Bass and those Classic Vibe 60s P basses go in this direction, the American Original 60s and all Custom Shop 60s P Basses go in this direction - more low mids, warmer and a little less snappy. 70s style for me is a little more aggressive, and snappy with a maple fingerboard and esh body. (I know that not all 70s P basses are like that but the stereotype is)
 
Perhaps Rotosound RB Roto Bass nickel rounds are the same series as or based on the original Swing Bass strings, I don't know.
The wording in the following quote — from an October 2011 Music Trades Magazine article about Rotosound — is a little ambiguous, but would seem to imply James How's Swing Bass roundwound bass strings have been stainless steel since day one:
Although Rotosound was making bass guitar strings as early as the 1950s (...) 1962 brought the earliest version of its signature Swing Bass string, the first round-wound stainless steel bass string, which jolted the market with a clarity and brightness never before heard from the bass guitar.
^ (Emphasis mine.)
https://www.omgmusic.com/pdfs/MTRotosoundOct11Special.pdf

The well-known recounts on the beginning of the Roto-Entwistle connection only mention tweaks to core diameter. Corresponding tweaks to wrap wire diameter are implied, but changes to its composition would certainly have been worth mentioning, and never were: in other words, neither the Hows nor the Who bassist ever said using steel was the latter's idea, and, while it being so would be weird in the first place, it would be nearly as weird if the fact went unmentioned.

Sure, the fact that 1962 "brought the earliest version" does not exclude that there were intervening ones between '62 and '66: was stainless steel introduced at a certain point as a replacement for something else?
Sure, it is once again an argument in absentia, but, it would be somewhat odd that no source mention it.
Either way, in that case said material could have been Monel — the same article mentions 1962 also being the date of introduction of Jazz Bass Monel flats (and leaves unclear just what, and wound in what, How produced for bass guitar between '58 and '62) — or pure nickel but, according to a vaguely-sourced but persistent opinion on the net, not nickel-plated steel (which the current RB Roto Bass strings are). NPS* in electric guitar and bass string manufacturing was reportedly a very late 1960s innovation:
Pure Nickel Strings

^ This other article is not without its problems: it identifies Pyramid as the 'inventors' of pure nickelwound guitar strings in 1954, and says pure nickels took some time to arrive to North American shores.
Yet Fender's Pure Nickel line appears in catalogues no later than 1955:
Dropbox - 1955 Fender Catalog.pdf - Simplify your life
(The mystery of Fender's No. 90 bass string set is best left to another time.)

* (By the way, according to Roto it would actually be nickel-plated *iron* at one point.)


Apologies for the inordinate amount of speculation: the above are the only relevant sources I could find.
As I pointed out amidst my contributions to an a propos thread,
[0]=253901&c[thread]=1479245']https://www.talkbass.com/search/37130852/?q=**&t=post&o=date&c[user][0]=253901&c[thread]=1479245
strings is definitely the one very important, yet little investigated aspect in vintage tone fiend research, all but eclypsed by Bakelite bridge saddles, tonewood, scatterwound pickups, coiled cables, valves, drivers and whatnot.
 
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But the Classic Vibe 60s aren't really built to 60s specs. They use different woods for both the body and the fretboard, different nut width, different fretboard radius, different type saddles, different fretwire, different spec pickups, different value tone cap, different finish. All of this affects the tone and the "feel" of the instrument (although Fender's actual 60s pickups were all over the place so I guess there might be a couple out there that by pure chance will sound close to the pickups in the CV60s;)).

The Classic Vibe instruments are meant to broadly catch the visual aesthetics and "vibe" of each era. Not to be exact replicas. The CV60 and CV70 won't differ in tone/feel anywhere near as much as actual 60s vs 70s P-basses. And they won't 100% nail the tone/feel of either. The CVs are nice basses in their own right though! Just don't get too hung up on Fender's use of year numbers in their marketing, it's just marketing BS.

In fact from listening to youtube videos and playing some CV60s and CV70s basses I do think that they are aimed at 60s and 70s P basses and get there half way with the sound. Of course with different body wood, fingerboards,... they won't replicate them but it's close enough. In my experience harder body woods and maple fingerboards sound more snappy and bright while softer body woods and rosewood or similar fingerboards sound a little more mellow and warm. Seems like Poplar is rather soft and Nato is a little harder. Tonewoods
 
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