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In fact from listening to youtube videos and playing some CV60s and CV70s basses I do think that they are aimed at 60s and 70s P basses and get there half way with the sound. Of course with different body wood, fingerboards,... they won't replicate them but it's close enough.
Well, not much beyond the looks IMO. Woods, electronics, neck profiles... almost everything is different. As I said, decent instruments, but to compare them to vintage Fenders is stretching it way too far. If you want to get a touch closer, you should at least install some proper VR pickups, like CS 62 Vintage, but these cost about 30 % of the price of the whole bass.
I never said that it has to sound like an original 60s p bass. I am talking about 60s style p basses. A little more mellow than 70s style - that's all.
In fact the Classic Vibe pickups are not THAT much different fom the CS62:
But I am thinking about swapping them for CS62, Lollars or Geezer Butler. Just not sure if it's worth it
YouTube compare just a recording sound for reference. In Real world , you can notable hear the difference between two bass when play through the bass rig.
Bummer, now I don't even want to try them out.Please let us know what you think.
In MY opinion the Fender 7150 pure nickels are HORRIBLE strings. They are probably the stiffest and least articulate roundwounds you'll ever find (when comparing similar gauges of course). They may have a "warm" tone in the sense of "lacking highs" but it's not a FAT tone. The stiffness prevents the strings from vibrating properly, which means they won't develop a nice "bloom" or fat lows. The tone is all about a hollow/nasal sounding mid range. Possibly the worst roundwounds I've ever tried, and I REALLY wanted to like these strings because I'm a fan of "the pure nickel tone". Unfortunately the only strings that offer that tone today are (in my opinion) the Pyramid Pure Nickels.
Maybe the Fenders could have worked better with slightly lighter gauges (the D and G-strings were particularly stiff and lacking articulation). Unfortunately they are (as far as I can tell) only available as 45-105. Which is usually my preferred gauges for roundwounds but these 7150s were HORRIBLY stiff.
Agreed; that's a very good point!I wish people recommending these stings would mention that they only come in ONE gauge: 043-051-068-089. Yeah, that's right, a .089 E-string. As great sounding as these strings are (and they really sound AMAZING) these gauges are WAY too light for most bass players. I don't think it's very helpful to post stuff like "BEST ROUNDWOUNDS EVER!!!" about strings that will clearly not work for the majority of bass players, no matter how much YOU like them.

Dude… seriously?? Step away from TB and Go talk to your friends and family more.Too quickly for YOU could be perfect for someone who is looking for the tone of old strings, which is specifically what the OP asked about. Besides, making a blanket statement about nickel strings dying "too quickly" based on an experience you had with ONE set that you perceived as faulty just doesn't make sense. Lots of bass players use nickel strings on a daily basis and are very happy with them.
Roto stainless steels may die in the "perfectly right way" for YOU but the main complaints about these strings, from MOST players that use them is that Rotos go "dead" too fast. For what it's worth I agree with you on this one. I love the tone of old, broken in Roto 66 steels. It's one of my favourite strings on a P-bass.
But although I agree with some of the things you said I don't think it's very helpful to present your personal opinions as FACTS the way you did. Finding the right strings is very much a matter of personal taste. And half the people posting in this thread don't even seem to have bothered reading the OPs description of what he's looking for.
'Bummer, now I don't even want to try them out.
I gave the NPS a shot and they came off after a couple of days, not a fan.
I bought these out of curiosity as I'm a fan of DR strings and have been using them almost exclusively for years and thought, what the hell, I'll give them a shot.
Good thing they were cheap.
In fact from listening to youtube videos and playing some CV60s and CV70s basses I do think that they are aimed at 60s and 70s P basses and get there half way with the sound. Of course with different body wood, fingerboards,... they won't replicate them but it's close enough. In my experience harder body woods and maple fingerboards sound more snappy and bright while softer body woods and rosewood or similar fingerboards sound a little more mellow and warm. Seems like Poplar is rather soft and Nato is a little harder. Tonewoods
Yeah, they are definitely "close enough". The P-basses sound like P-basses and the J-basses sound like J-basses.
Yeah, they are definitely "close enough". The P-basses sound like P-basses and the J-basses sound like J-basses. Whether the CV60s sound like 60s P-basses or the CV70s sound like 70s P-basses is a completely different matter. Especially because actual 60s vintage Fender basses can be all over the place tonally.
BTW, I'm surprised at how light poplar is. Every poplar body instrument I've played has been extremely heavy so I just assumed it would be harder but I never bothered looking it up. Interesting! It's a bit unusual to see such a low janka hardness rating for such a heavy wood. I'm trying out some new woods for bodies/necks at the moment and poplar has been on my list for bodies as I can get it really cheap. Looks like it could be really easy to work with.
It's generally true, as a first approximation. It's when you dig a bit deeper, that you realize how different they can be in terms of harmonic content, sustain, tone definition... All these things that make you sound good in a mix.
You don't even have to compare them against vintage Fenders, just pick any MIA instrument.
+1 on the GHS Balanced Nickels. In addition to all the other attributes, after they seat in they acquire some of that organic woodiness that absolutely makes P-bass tone."Old" as in how old?
Here are a couple of them I've liked in the past on my P bass for their "well broken-in" tone...
GHS Balanced Nickels (pure nickel roundwound on a round core).
DR Nickel Lo-Riders (nickel-plated steel roundwound on a hex core).
I’m one of those Only New Rotos guys.I discovered way back that Rotos are almost two different strings in one.
There is the bright sound that people buy them for and the less bright, more balanced sound that they reach after days to weeks of use.
There are some players that never knew about the years of use still in them after the bite fades.
It's generally true, as a first approximation. It's when you dig a bit deeper, that you realize how different they can be in terms of harmonic content, sustain, tone definition... All these things that make you sound good in a mix.
You don't even have to compare them against vintage Fenders, just pick any MIA instrument.
I understand. In the mid-2000's I played Roto Swingbass in custom gauges 45-60-80-105 on my custom fanned fret P-style bass. A Different Custom P-style Bass | TalkBass.com I played the last Lawrence Welk Special, Precious Memories, with these strings The Lawrence Welk Show - Precious Memories - 03-2005 (youtube.com). In rehearsals, the E strings were dying. I could hardly get through an all-day rehearsal without them going thunk. I contacted the Rotosound rep, who said they were aware and were re-formulating the windings. He sent me a half-dozen to get me through the show. They were better. They recorded very well, indeed. After that show, I wanted a little softer feel, so I changed to GHS SuperSteels in 44-98.I’m one of those Only New Rotos guys.
The few sets I went through definitely had one or two strings turned to fast-decaying thudders at ~40 hours of play-time. Their fresh sound was a super interesting woody bark that I haven’t heard in any other string. That was almost a decade ago now.
I wonder how my now flatwounds-favoring ears would think they are after all four strings make the transition.