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Possible cab build

lkngro

lkngro

Feb 4, 2010
388
3
Hockessin, Delaware, USA
#1
I didn't really know where to put this, since there's really no "building" forum besides the luthier's corner. But this isn't luthier stuff, so...

So I think I'm going to ask my dad if we could build a bass cab together this summer, since I quickly realized just how boring summer vacation can be. He has a bunch of pretty nice wood lying around his workshop, so I figured it could be put to good use.

Features I want:
- 2x12 speakers (I feel like a 2x10 won't have enough oomph and I already have a 1x15)
- Closed back (obviously)
- Be able to handle up to 500 watts
- No horn/tweeter

I'm new to cab building, and I've heard that it's harder than it seems. So can someone give me some guidlines as to how it should be constructed, as far as the structure goes?

I also need some speaker suggestions.

Thanks guys,
Luke
 
#2
You would do well to look at Bill Fitzmaurice's designs. His Jack 12 is a fairly easy build, he tells you exactly what drivers and parts to use, and you can build two of them.

As for "pretty nice wood," you don't want to use hardwood or standard plywood. They're too heavy, and standard ply has voids between the plies that will vibrate. Half-inch baltic birch is the preferred material. Bill's plans don't leave that to chance, either.

www.billfitzmaurice.com

There's also the fEarful series of cabs to investigate on TB.
 
#3
Hi.

A DIY cab is a perfect dad & son venture.

Duplicating any existing cab based mainly on marketing hype is however pointless. As almost every single poster (DIYer) will tell You.

Even though I don't have any personal experience about either BFM's or fEarful's Rick suggested, their concept is well tested and proven, so You really can't go wrong with neither one.

Regards
Sam
 
#5
The new Jack is really not a picnic to build. I wouldn't recommend it to anyone without experience building solid direct radiator cabs, despite what the BFM site says. You will need lots and lots of clamps, some way to get your panels cut, and a circular saw at least.
 
#6
The op's father has a workshop. he's probably capable. Anyway PL premium fixes all sins. :)

In any case check out some jack build threads to see if you (op) are comfortable with angled cuts on wood. A router is useful for the project also.

Paul
 
#7
I recently built a Jack 112 and I don't think it was too tough of a build as long as you/ your dad is relatively handy and has certain tools (a table saw definitely helped me but a circular saw atleast). If he has a shop I would probably put him in the handy category. And PL definitely helps a lot, and with no horn or tweeter it's easy to wire since theres not too many wires. I like the Jack for playing live because it really does have that cut through mid-tone but also be aware it doesn't have really deep bass though. (although I'm sure 2 of them would also make some difference in that category)

That being said I've really wanted to build a fearful 15/6 after all the talk on here. I have that on hold as I'm working on something else now, but I am definitely going to build one in the future.

Research them both a bit and see which suits you best.
 
#11
That's a good list of links. OP, are you and your Dad interested in phycially building an existing/proven design or designing something totally from scratch. If it's the latter, there are many other things to consider than just the physical building of the box, giving it a nice covering, etc. Study up on Theile/Small parameters and what they mean, learn what frequency bands are important to a bass guitar and what aren't, train your ear the difference between frequency and pitch, learn how harmonics work and how they make you sound, learn the relationship between speaker placement and dispersion/cancellations, etc.

If you have the time and effort to put into the self-educating (with copious amounts of help from the good folks at TB of course) I say do it. The amount of knowledge to be gained is incredible.

A summer is enough time. Start with a simple speaker in a box type cab. When you're done with it, it'll work and sound alright but your collective brains will already be trained to seek flaws/improvements, etc. Then move on the second cab and make it a little more complicated like including a crossover and mid-driver or tweeter.

Most of all, good luck and stick to it. This site alone has enough links/info to probably keep you reading most of the summer. It is frequented by tons of "regular" musicians, a few hacks, and some who freely provide information that took them a couple of degrees and many years of experience to accumulate.
 
#12
OP - Go here: http://www.talkbass.com/wiki/index.p..._12/6_&_15/6

Build this...but leave out the horn:
Click to expand...

+1

But I'd put the horn in there - it don't cost much and I think think that many bass players who eschew horns do so because typically the high frequency elements [horns and crossovers] found in bass cabs sound like ass. It don't have to be that way.

Build a nice crossover and add a nice horn and there is a goodly chance you will like it. :hyper:
 
#13
+1 on the BFM designs. I have built several of them about 3 or 4 years ago and have had no problems long term. I am not a carpenter by any means but I do know which end of the saw is sharp! I built a DR250...great bass cab, Omni 10.5... great practice , small gig cab and an AutoTuba subwoofer that I have been using indoors with good success. If your dad has a shop you have it made!
 
#14
Foz said:
+1

But I'd put the horn in there - it don't cost much and I think think that many bass players who eschew horns do so because typically the high frequency elements [horns and crossovers] found in bass cabs sound like ass. It don't have to be that way.

Build a nice crossover and add a nice horn and there is a goodly chance you will like it. :hyper:
Click to expand...

I'd build it with the whole shebang...but the OP said no horn/tweeter.
 
#15
Mo'Phat said:
Build this...but leave out the horn:

Link Removed
Click to expand...

I really like this idea. But can I just make it a regular 2x12 without that smaller speaker and the tweeter?

Also, could I see an actual picture of the guts of one? As opposed to just the blueprints? Does anyone have that?

EDIT: And I don't want to make this project too expensive, so are there any alternatives to the KappaLite 3012LFs? They're $180 a pop.
 
#17
lkngro said:
I really like this idea. But can I just make it a regular 2x12 without that smaller speaker and the tweeter?

Also, could I see an actual picture of the guts of one? As opposed to just the blueprints? Does anyone have that?

EDIT: And I don't want to make this project too expensive, so are there any alternatives to the KappaLite 3012LFs? They're $180 a pop.
Click to expand...
Do it right or don't do it at all. The results will be better than anything you can buy commercially for less than $1k, and that's being very conservative.
The point of DIY isn't getting a cab on the cheap. If that's your goal buy a used cab. DIY allows you to build a better cab than you can afford to buy.
You can leave the tweeter out, I would, but as to the rest don't be penny wise.
 
#18
billfitzmaurice said:
Do it right or don't do it at all. The results will be better than anything you can buy commercially for less than $1k, and that's being very conservative.
The point of DIY isn't getting a cab on the cheap. If that's your goal buy a used cab. DIY allows you to build a better cab than you can afford to buy.
You can leave the tweeter out, I would, but as to the rest don't be penny wise.
Click to expand...

+1

Penny wise, tone stupid.

Those speakers may be 160ish or so, but you're also ending up with a cab that would be well over $1000 if it were a production cab.
 
#20
lkngro said:
I really like this idea. But can I just make it a regular 2x12 without that smaller speaker and the tweeter?

Also, could I see an actual picture of the guts of one? As opposed to just the blueprints? Does anyone have that?

EDIT: And I don't want to make this project too expensive, so are there any alternatives to the KappaLite 3012LFs? They're $180 a pop.
Click to expand...

For this particular cabinet design, you absolutely should not eliminate the midrange driver. The Kappalite 3012LF's are bass-heavy and require a midrange to come close to full range...the LF stands for Low Frequency (or something like that).

If you're anything like I was when I wanted to build my 2x15, you want simple...ie: no crossover. Just wire from the jack to the speakers.

You can explore what I did, and take the ElectroVoice TL series plans and create a 2x12 cabinet based on the dimensions of the TL-806 cabinet...then either get some EV 12L's to put in it, or find a suitable alternative from the Eminence series that's in your budget.

Here's the plan for the TL-806:
Link Removed

PS: If I did it again, I'd probably build the fEarful 1212/6. A great all-situation cabinet for any gig or rehearsal. Right now, I have a small 1x12 cabinet with a horn, and my horn-less 2x15 - the tone is vastly different and takes some time before shows and rehearsals dialing in the eq.
 

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