Precision bass - series/parallel, pot bypass. Confused!

[Massan]

Hello!
I’m upgrading my pbass with dp122 and I’d like to try a few things while I’m at it.

First of all I’m interested in adding a parallel switch for the pickup and initially I though about going to dpdt switch and then straight to the jack - see the attachment.

But after reading through some stuff here stating that the pots are essential tonal elements of the classic pbass sound, I’m scratching my head.

See, this instrument is meant solely for studio use. I thought I could just lowpass the excessive top end with an external eq and that should do the trick, right?

If there’s indeed something magical about the pots, maybe I should leave 250k volume in there and add a bypass switch for the pots when I need the full spectrum output from the pup.

I’d love to take a look on how to add a bypass switch for tone/volume pots or just one volume pot. Not sure if fully open tone pot adds anything?

To sum it up:
1. Should I bother about the tonal qualities of pots in studio situation where I can eq stuff how I want?
2. If I should, can I add the bypass switch to the scheme and how to do it properly in relation to series/parallel switch etc?
3. Do I really need a tone pot if I have a volume pot, considering both will be fully open at all times? Does it add anything in this case just sitting there open?
4. Should I go for 500k pots for any reason?

Sorry I’m noob when it comes to this stuff, I’d appreciate any corrections and thoughts!

Thanks

Dmitry

 

[Killed_by_Death]

TBH I don't think the DP122 is hot enough to be useful in parallel. Try it first, before wiring up the switch. You may decide it's too weak.

Ironically, you'd have the sound of a DP122 if you wired a DP127 in parallel.

 

[Massan]

TBH I don't think the DP122 is hot enough to be useful in parallel. Try it first, before wiring up the switch. You may decide it's too weak.

Ironically, you'd have the sound of a DP122 if you wired a DP127 in parallel.

I hear you but it doesn’t really matter in a studio situation since the preamps are digitally adjustable so I can have a hotter “preset” for a weaker signal.
I like to have the tonal variety because I like to use instruments in weird and creative ways. I checked out some demos and it sounded interesting to me

 

[Killed_by_Death]

Glenn Fricker says adding a frequency (tone) that's not coming from the instrument just makes noise.
500K Ohm pots will make it brighter & if you really want it brighter add that bypass switch. Many don't care for the full bypass, but I certainly did when I did it to my Rickenbacker 4004 for just one night.

I'd rather have too many highs I can dial back than no highs when I want them.
In other words, you've got it right, better to have more than you need & just EQ (or filter) out what you don't.

 

[lowplaces]

No load pot and call it a day ?

 

[Massan]

Glenn Fricker says adding a frequency (tone) that's not coming from the instrument just makes noise.


I'd rather have too many highs I can dial back than no highs when I want them.
In other words, you've got it right, better to have more than you need & just EQ (or filter) out what you don't.

Yes that’s what I’m talking about
Of course I meant subtractive eq only.
But on some youtube videos volume pot actually really makes the tone in my opinion
Check this out

The 1meg sounds like it has a mid boost, while 500k is more what you’d expect. I’m not sure though, maybe something’s not right with the demo cause the difference is huge

 

[Killed_by_Death]

A no-load pot helps, but you're still losing some highs (and output) through a 250K Ohm volume pot.

Think about this logically:

If you have 500K Ohm pots & you dial them back to halfway (250K Ohm), it will sound just like a bass with 250K Ohm pots.
If you have a bass with 250K Ohm pots, you cannot dial it up to where the sound of a bass with 500K Ohm pots is.