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Prepping shellac for clearcoat

Mar 14, 2016
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3,042
Denver
I coated a body with shellac a month or so ago pending lengthy tests of clear coats, and I'm ready to take the next step (which, very much to my surprise, will be epoxy). This body hasn't seen a ton of handling, but more than zero, so there are no doubt some fingerprints here and there. I want to remove them and anything else that might interfere with adhesion. Obviously my normal alcohol or acetone can't be used.

I called Rust-Oleum (makers of Zinsser shellacs) and asked them, and they suggested mineral spirits. I haven't used mineral spirits for anything in years and years, but I remember it as being kind of like kerosene, and tending to leave an oily residue. That seems like a terrible idea as paint prep. But I bought some anyway.

Tests yesterday showed that the Kleen-Strip Odorless mineral spirits don't harm shellac. I also smeared it on a piece of plastic and let it dry, and there is no obvious residue, but I do worry that there is something I can't see. I attempted to contact Kleen-Strip but the contact form on their website resulted in--I am not making this up--a bounced "no such user" email.

So I am asking for your recommendations to clean and prep shellac to accept, in this case, an epoxy-based clear.
 
Well, right. That's why I don't want to use alcohol. Even if it doesn't strip the shellac, it will soften it and I'll have to wait for it to dry out again, subjecting the surface to more handling in the meantime.
 
Well, right. That's why I don't want to use alcohol. Even if it doesn't strip the shellac, it will soften it and I'll have to wait for it to dry out again, subjecting the surface to more handling in the meantime.

A very light lb cut of shellac on an already shellaced surface is called French Polishing.

A simple wipe down is very minimal with respect to time to dry
 
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Is there enough shellac thickness that you can give it a light sanding? That would help with adhesion as well. If the shellac was premixed it can be waxy so test on a sample before spraying the epoxy over it. For just degreasing napththa works well.

Andy
 
Before and after on delamination repair. I drilled tiny holes around the perimeter and put water-thin CA into the side. 80% successful or so, will re-examine after level sanding.
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If you're using Zissner as an undercoat, make sure to use "sealcoat", which is dewaxed. The regular amber is not.
If you use shellac that still has wax in it, you are going to have adhesion problems no matter what you use over the top.
Far, far (by a lot) better is to use good fresh dewaxed shellac flakes and mix your own with either denatured alcohol, or 190+ proof ethanol. Mix what you need and it will dry in minutes.
You can top coat dewaxed shellac with nearly anything.

Rick