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Pro Sound Install Job - attenuation between amp/speakers?

I have a pro audio install job Im working on in which the customer insists on having a nearby volume control for a banquet room and an outdoor patio. There are three rooms: the bar/main stage, an indoor/outdoor patio and a banquet hall- each of which have a pair of 215's and their own power amp but the amps are racked together next to the bar/main stage mixboard.

I have done this before with Home audio equipment using Niles Audio volume attenuators. These are 100 watts though. Fine for High Fi - no good for pro audio.

Has any one seen any attenuators that go between amp and speakers for pro sound that can handle 500W and 12 gauge speaker wires?
 
I have a pro audio install job Im working on in which the customer insists on having a nearby volume control for a banquet room and an outdoor patio. There are three rooms: the bar/main stage, an indoor/outdoor patio and a banquet hall- each of which have a pair of 215's and their own power amp but the amps are racked together next to the bar/main stage mixboard.

I have done this before with Home audio equipment using Niles Audio volume attenuators. These are 100 watts though. Fine for High Fi - no good for pro audio.

Has any one seen any attenuators that go between amp and speakers for pro sound that can handle 500W and 12 gauge speaker wires?

I do this kind of work, too, and have never seen a volume control that will handle 500W. How much power output from each amp- it's not the speaker's power handling that determines which type of volume control is used.

Pro audio usually uses 70V systems for distributed audio and that also means amplifiers that A) aren't stereo, B) drive more speakers, using the various taps to set the balance between them and C) uses 70V volume controls. In this case, the speakers will have transformers with power taps.

The client doesn't think he can use a volume control to adjust the level on-stage, does he?

What are you using as a preamp? Look at the DBX- they use keypads to select the source and adjust level for each zone.
 
This is where you want to be able to make use of modern digital signal processing like the Pros actually use in installations. The DBX could be used except it is cumbersome to program and I've seen several crap on people over the past 5 years.

I suggest a Symetrix Jupiter 8 for what you are doing. It's IP controllable and will allow you to completely process your mains and monitors in your stage room, and send a separate feed to your two other areas which of course don't need to be in "stereo". Using a Symetrix ARC-2e and a wireless router, you can allow the client to have separate volume control for the other two areas via the hardwired ARC-2e remote or using Symnet's ARC-WEB feature which when you couple a Jupiter with a wireless router, you can change the volumes from anywhere within range of the router via smart phone or laptop or desktop...anything that can see a wireless connection as ARC-WEB is a web page and not an APP.

HERE'S The sweet stuff, when that club owner stiffs you on payments. Pull up outside the club....log into ARC-WEB and shut his ass down until he pays. Slick? You bet! Full Compass or Big Time Audio in Milwaukee should be able to get them for you. Much more reliable and easier to program than any other DSP on the market. Not enough people are hip to what Symetrix is doing these days. Their Jupiter, Solus, Express Cobra and new EDGE DSP platforms are the best. I'm putting three Solus in the Milwaukee Theater on Monday. I've got Express Cobra in the US Cell Arena, and I've put them in over 300 Churches across Wisconsin. I put them in fitness clubs, hotel and meeting spaces, they are seriously well made and the tech support is first rate.
 
Thanks for the ideas. I was trying intercept the existing speaker cables and avoid purchasing more equipment and running new low voltage cables mostly because of the long and difficult path from the mains to these two areas. Plus pretty sure thats not in his budget.

FYI- 500 Watts is just a high and safe estimate- amps are Crown xls 602's but I cant imagine them ever needing more than 500 watts for either of these rooms especially the patio. - if they upgrade in the future.

Anybody know of anyone who can custom make something that will safely protect the amp and speakers?

There's got to be a market for this kind of simple volume control - Before I used dual channel power amps for my bass rig, I've often thought about doing this with my 2x10 cab/15 cab speaker set up, especially if I had to run two different SPL or ohm cabs and want the ability to mix the volume.
 
i'm afraid passive in-line speaker attenuators and "pro sound" don't really go together. you'd see them on ancient little peavey monitors, and you see them as L-pads just on horns in multi-way cabs (i.e., 50 watts or less), but for real amps, i think it just isn't done.

that one amp may just need to be moved to the other room if it has to be controlled separately, or some kind of zone mixer set up to control it.
 
walterw said:
i'm afraid passive in-line speaker attenuators and "pro sound" don't really go together. you'd see them on ancient little peavey monitors, and you see them as L-pads just on horns in multi-way cabs (i.e., 50 watts or less), but for real amps, i think it just isn't done.

that one amp may just need to be moved to the other room if it has to be controlled separately, or some kind of zone mixer set up to control it.

Agreed 100%!

Having done this type of work for over 30 years....you just have to learn to not "F" around and do it half ass to make the owners budget. If he can't afford it, he can't have it. Plain and simple. In line speaker level pads always burn out far too quickly. Then you have to warranty them. Are you making enough on this project to warranty them? If so, then force the client to do it right, he can afford it. Another option would be to use 70v two ways in the other rooms, either use a good 70v amp or toss a couple QSC OT-300 auto formers on your current amps outputs. Then use a Lowell 200 watt 70V volume control, again from like Full Compass or B&H on the feed to each room. Attenuating 70v works well. Don't worry about the "loss of frequency or performance", the client has no clue, the atron surely has no clue, it will sound fine and be controllable. All big venues use 70v to drive auxiliary areas. Community has some great sounding outdoor 70v in their contracting series, so does JBL, EV....save the great sound for the entertainment space. While the transformers or transformerized speakers may cost more up front, it is still cheaper than having to run back and forth buying this guy new "L-pads" every other week. In the meantime, all he tells other people is that these guys'll don't know what they're doing...they're back all the time fixing....blah! Screw him, you just "turned into a hack" because he didn't want to spend the money up front. The argument can be made that you could have upgraded to a good quality DSP for the additional expense. I mean seriously, one 8x8 DSP that would run you around $1,200 to provide all the system processing you need with matrixing to feed aux areas, all the EQ and dynamics is much more practical than buying crap loads of EQ,s and stereo comp/limiters and a butt load of 8ohm L-pads.

Don't let the clients checkbook put you in a spot that will cause you grief. The job ain't worth it. No matter how much you need the work or money. I know....I have been there before and it has cost me dearly. Being a good guy and spending the time trying to figure out how to do things on the cheap for this owner is also wasting your time and reducing your bottom line. Opportunity is a wonderful thing, but giving your time away for nothing is a bad investment. Either do it right, or don't do it. Your name and cred as a knowledgeable pro contractor hinges on doing it right not half assed. Why am I considered one of the most respected guys In the industry locally or nationally? Because I stopped trying to do what you are trying to do. I only do it the right way. I get much more work today because of that!

But again, I really recommend doing this at the processor level, and you will someday thank me for the recommendation to use a Jupiter with WEB-ARC. I stopped working with clubs and bars years ago for a very good reason. Sooner or later you will be too trusting and wish you had the ability to force a client to whip out the secret cash stash. And just because it is 2012 and not 1992 doesn't mean club owners are any more honest or reliable to pay. Yes, there are exceptions.....but they are far and few. I have Ben in on many amazing changes in the industry to this point. But the one thing you have to learn is when to know is that their ARE phone calls you shouldn't have answered!

Good luck on your install!.
 
This is where you want to be able to make use of modern digital signal processing like the Pros actually use in installations. The DBX could be used except it is cumbersome to program and I've seen several crap on people over the past 5 years.

I suggest a Symetrix Jupiter 8 for what you are doing. It's IP controllable and will allow you to completely process your mains and monitors in your stage room, and send a separate feed to your two other areas which of course don't need to be in "stereo". Using a Symetrix ARC-2e and a wireless router, you can allow the client to have separate volume control for the other two areas via the hardwired ARC-2e remote or using Symnet's ARC-WEB feature which when you couple a Jupiter with a wireless router, you can change the volumes from anywhere within range of the router via smart phone or laptop or desktop...anything that can see a wireless connection as ARC-WEB is a web page and not an APP.

HERE'S The sweet stuff, when that club owner stiffs you on payments. Pull up outside the club....log into ARC-WEB and shut his ass down until he pays. Slick? You bet! Full Compass or Big Time Audio in Milwaukee should be able to get them for you. Much more reliable and easier to program than any other DSP on the market. Not enough people are hip to what Symetrix is doing these days. Their Jupiter, Solus, Express Cobra and new EDGE DSP platforms are the best. I'm putting three Solus in the Milwaukee Theater on Monday. I've got Express Cobra in the US Cell Arena, and I've put them in over 300 Churches across Wisconsin. I put them in fitness clubs, hotel and meeting spaces, they are seriously well made and the tech support is first rate.

The dbx isn't too bad to program but how complex it is obviously depends on the system. I have only worked with two of them in one restaurant- one that took a dump and the one that replaced it. The speakers were cutting out and the dbx stopped responding to commands from the keypads. The dbx had its own issues but the speakers going off turned out to an abandoned VC feed in the kitchen where someone removed the VC and twisted the wires together. It was far enough from the rack that it wasn't far from looking like a speaker load, but the speakers were on 70V VCs, which didn't make sense. The wires had also been tucked out of the way and were bare, in contact with the conduit used for the light switch.

Re: your last post- in spades! No job is worth taking when it stands to ruin the reputation of the installer/contractor just because the client didn't want to spend enough to make it reliable and do what they said they wanted. Also, if they say they want something, expect them to want more without saying what it is- most don't know how to say what they want and don't volunteer the info without a lot of questions or prodding.
 
HERE'S The sweet stuff, when that club owner stiffs you on payments. Pull up outside the club....log into ARC-WEB and shut his ass down until he pays.

Please tell me you actual did this!

i'm afraid passive in-line speaker attenuators and "pro sound" don't really go together. you'd see them on ancient little peavey monitors, and you see them as L-pads just on horns in multi-way cabs (i.e., 50 watts or less), but for real amps, i think it just isn't done.

He's right. L-pads generate heat with unused power going through them. Put enough through them and they'll generate fire. Not something you want inside the wall of your installation. A better way is a transformer based volume control and I know of a 300 watt model, but it's still the wrong tool for the job. DSP placed before the amplifiers with wired remote controls is the proper way to do this. Many options have been mentioned above that will do this nicely and provide some other option for your client. If you absolutely have to accomplish this on a severely restricted budget one of these Link Removed, and the remote volume control designed to work with it, in front of each zone's amp would probably do the trick. But trying to reign in 500 watts with a passive device has liability potential written all over it. Play safe and do it right or don't do it at all.
 
I've done this stuff a few times....

Dumb question.. why not use active speakers? Then there are a ton of "volume knob" issues.

It's an impending headache to use ipad gizmos when they want a knob.... they'll never dork around (or find) with the gizmo when it's busy... I don't know a restaurant owner who'd want an ipad sitting around to be stolen by their staff.
 
I can't imagine having a little wall mount attenuator that would handle 500+ watts.
It'd be sitting there on the wall, looking all innocent, and then suddenly the owner shows up and decides to turn some speakers down.
Suddenly, there'd be this cute little box that's trying to thermally dissipate 400+ watts into a nice little cozy box in the wall.


And then the poor little box would be wondering why his cute little box home is on fire.

Are active speakers out of the question?
 
Please tell me you actual did this!


I got the idea from a contractor down in Houston at the Lyntec booth ( a power sequencing and a/c power conditioning manufacturer for the a/v install industry) at an industry trade show, and they were using remote web-page access that could be called up via any smart phones or iPads that could access the web. He dialed up his club client's remote power IP address, went into the "administrative" mode that we always lock clients out of....and down went the dance club.

So while I didn't myself shut down a dance club as tasty as that would be, I did start adding the cost of a $30 router to all of my Symetrix Jupiter installs. I stopped doing club work for that reason but...

That allowed me to shut a Church down on a Sunday morning for non-payment after chasing them for 5 months for final payment. I don't get many....but they do pop up every 5-10 years. And if the good reverend didn't show up driving a new BMW SUV one day, pull up in his Jag the next, and then watching his wife pull up in an Escalade and then seeing two of his kids show up in BMW sedans during our installation work...I think you get the idea. Shut his ass down during a service. We have a 24 hr emergency line and he called it. It rang to my phone. I said I was busy out helping paying customers and for him to call me back tomorrow. He did, I explained the situation. Drove down again on Friday, picked up the cashiers check, and then unlocked the system and pulled my router. Very handy.