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problem with bridge!!

#101
kedo said:
Exactly. The spacing between the grooves will not change at all, regardless of the orientation of the saddles/intonation screws.
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Not talking about saddle groove distance between the D and G strings if they are both flipped it will stay the same but the distance will change between the A and D string since flipping the D and G saddles will shift their grooves to the bass side.

Due to the location of the intonation screw hole in the saddle and the string/intonation screw holes in the bridge plate, it's impossible for the groove to be in the same place if the intonation screw is moved to the string hole and the saddle flipped.

The saddle groove will line up with the hole formerly occupied by the intonation screw, not the former string hole since the intonation screw is now located in the former string hole and it's impossible for the saddle groove to line up with the intonation screw.
 
#102
mongo2 said:
Not true. In fact, due to the location of the intonation screw hole in the saddle and the string/intonation screw holes in the bridge plate, it's impossible for the groove to be in the same place if the intonation screw is relocated and the saddle flipped. The saddle groove will line up with the hole formerly occupied by the intonation screw now the former string hole since the intonation screw is not located in the former string hole and it's impossible for the saddle groove to line up with the intonation screw.
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The saddles may move, but the grooves will not move in relation to each other. The spacing will be identical, though the saddles positions in space may have changed.
 
#103
ImageUploadedByTalkBass1391389795.733075.jpg
 
#109
"i said good day!" (willie wonka reference :))

and you're still bizarrely wrong about this one; you haven't "done that", because that physically can't happen in this case.

you're obviously thinking of saddles where the groove is itself offset on the saddle, so that flipping the saddle actually moves the location of the groove; that's exactly what isn't gonna happen in this case.
 
#110
walterw said:
"i said good day!" (willie wonka reference :))

and you're still bizarrely wrong about this one; you haven't "done that", because that physically can't happen in this case.

you're obviously thinking of saddles where the groove is itself offset on the saddle, so that flipping the saddle actually moves the location of the groove; that's exactly what isn't gonna happen in this case.
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Wrong.

Since my posts seem to bother you so much feel free to put my on your ignore list.
 
#111
mongo2 said:
Wrong.

Since my posts seem to bother you so much feel free to put my on your ignore list.
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wrong twice :p

both about this silly saddle thing, and that you think i'd be bothered about it. it's certainly not worth anybody getting riled up over.

(hell, i never understood the "ignore list" thing anyway! if somebody is saying stuff that makes you mad, or even getting personal or inappropriate, and you "ignore" them, doesn't that mean they can go on saying bad stuff, even stuff about you, but now everybody else still sees it and you don't?)
 
#113
Pilgrim said:
(sniff) Nobody likes my suggestion to change to threaded saddles so the strings can be located using the threads. (sniff)
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console.gif

i like it in principle, but i suspect the string pull would just pull those two saddles out until the spacing ended up back where it was.

the right answer really is to get the correct, narrower bridge, and maybe loosen the neck and pull it over until it's centered under the strings.

OK, back to
fisticuffs.gif
bonk.gif
bkw.gif
 
#119
OK, I am going to throw my 2 cents in here. First off, just from your photographs, it is obvious that the G string is veering way off the neck. To me, it looks like all the strings are getting wider as they run down the neck toward the bridge. That being said, and it really doesn't matter the type of bridge, or if in fact it is the original bridge you have there, yes, you need a narrower bridge. I would try this: take off all the strings, and remove the bridge. Get some string, like what you would tie something with. Tie one end of a length of string to each tuning peg and run each string in/over the appropriate nut slot and down the length of the neck down to where (and past) the bridge would be. Tape each string down exactly where you want each string to lie in terms of where it runs down the neck. Then you can get a very accurate measurement of the distance A) between each simulated string and B) the overall distance from E string to G string. You could leave the bridge on just to run the string over and then tape it down past that point if you like. This at least will give you a visual of exactly what you need in terms of overall distance, E to G, and individual string distance and then you can proceed to find a bridge to matchs or comes very close to your needs. You may wind up having to go with an individual bridge for each string but I doubt it. I hope this helps.
 

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