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problem with bridge!!

Well since I've actually had experience with situations like this, I'll just leave it at...

There's no harm in trying it.

This must have been the most bizarre exchange I've seen in the forum...

The pen is red.
Yes, but it can be blue if you flip it.
No, it will still be red.
No, it will not. Try it, there's no harm in trying.
But... it... will... always... be... red.

Sorry mongo2, I'm not poking fun at you (I say this because in writing it may look that way, and I don't mean it that way).

With grooves all in the middle of each saddle, no amount of flipping will change the string spacing. Ignore the screws for a minute. Imagine that you're designing the bridge so that you can choose where to drill the holes for the screws on the plate... but you have to use those 4 saddles.
All you have to do is arrange the saddles so that the grooves are at the desired spacing. Then mark where the screws are, and where the holes on the plate will be. Easy. Right?

Ok, just arrange the saddles so that the spacing changes. Flip them in any way you want. The only condition is that they will be in line side by side, in contact.

The only way you can achieve a change in spacing is if at least some of the saddles have the groove *NOT* in the centre. There are saddles like that. Then what you say will change the spacing. But the saddles shown here have the grooves exactly in the middle. Nothing doing there...

If you disagree, please make a drawing with the steps you'd take... and watch what happens.
 
With grooves all in the middle of each saddle, no amount of flipping will change the string spacing.

When the groove is in the center of the saddle the intonation hole is offset from the center of the saddle so flipping the saddle combined with moving the intonation screw to where the string was previously located will shift the saddle groove to be inline with the hole where the intonation screw was previously located. When the string is installed through the former intonation screw hole it will have shifted over the distance between the two holes.
 
I think what mongo2 is saying is that the intonation screws locate where the saddles are positioned. He's right about that. Whether it correctly positions the saddles, or if the outer feet remain on the plate is another issue altogether. The best solution is a new bridge with the correct spacing.
 
When the groove is in the center of the saddle the intonation hole is offset from the center of the saddle so flipping the saddle combined with moving the intonation screw to where the string was previously located will shift the saddle groove to be inline with the hole where the intonation screw was previously located. When the string is installed through the former intonation screw hole it will have shifted over the distance between the two holes.

So you're not talking about string spacing, but about shifting strings a small amount sideways?
 
^^- correct.
This must have been the most bizarre exchange I've seen in the forum...
Moving the saddles/screws ON THAT BRIDGE anywhere will NOT decrease the string-to-string or overall string width, which is what the OP needs.
If the saddles were replaced with threaded saddles and the screws swapped as 'mongo2' said, it 'may' work, as the strings could then be located closer together...
But- I'm afraid that the resulting break angle would no be sufficient.
Solution- replace bridge with correct spacing, or see post #69.
 
So you're not talking about string spacing, but about shifting strings a small amount sideways?

Exactly.

As I said before, if it's done to the D and G strings they will be shifted toward their respective pickup polepiece. However, as a consequence of the shift, the string distance between the A and D strings will be reduced the amount of the shift.

I never claimed it's a perfect solution but, as I also stated previously, it may make the bass playable until a suitable replacement bridge can be found. And it certainly wouldn't hurt anything to try it and see what happens.
 
When the groove is in the center of the saddle the intonation hole is offset from the center of the saddle so flipping the saddle combined with moving the intonation screw to where the string was previously located will shift the saddle groove...
you keep saying this, and it keeps not being so.
 
Exactly.

As I said before, if it's done to the D and G strings they will be shifted toward their respective pickup polepiece. However, as a consequence of the shift, the string distance between the A and D strings will be reduced the amount of the shift.

You will have to shift all the saddles, you cannot reduce the distance between A and D strings...
You may shift the bridge, or even the saddles, perhaps. But you will never reduce the string spacing if the grooves are right in the middle of the saddle.
Try drawing it!

In what you propose, do you still have all saddles touching?
If yes, the distance has not changed.
If not, you can only separate the saddles, increase the spacing, you can't reduce it on that bridge.
 
You will have to shift all the saddles, you cannot reduce the distance between A and D strings...
You may shift the bridge, or even the saddles, perhaps. But you will never reduce the string spacing if the grooves are right in the middle of the saddle.
Try drawing it!

I don't have to draw since I've done it in the past. When I did it the saddle barrels didn't actually shift, the groove and intonation screws simply swapped position. BTW the bridge wasn't a Fender or spec'd like a Fender. It was one of 4 I purchased form a manufacturer that is no longer in business but they look similar to the one the OP has.
 
OK, after reading multiple pages of this....if I were the OP, I would have long since run screaming into the underbrush.

Why don't you flip the saddles, move the screws, and do anything else you want...and if it does not put the strings where you want them, grab a triangle file and make grooves in the saddles where you want them? That WILL position them wherever you want.

It will look funny after filing through the chrome plating, but that's another issue.
 
OK, after reading multiple pages of this....if I were the OP, I would have long since run screaming into the underbrush.

Why don't you flip the saddles, move the screws, and do anything else you want...and if it does not put the strings where you want them, grab a triangle file and make grooves in the saddles where you want them? That WILL position them wherever you want.

It will look funny after filing through the chrome plating, but that's another issue.

Like I've been saying all along, it won't hurt to try it.

Adios.
 
I don't have to draw since I've done it in the past. When I did it the saddle barrels didn't actually shift, the groove and intonation screws simply swapped position. BTW the bridge wasn't a Fender or spec'd like a Fender. It was one of 4 I purchased form a manufacturer that is no longer in business but they look similar to the one the OP has.

Ok, I can't repeat it any clearer so I'll bow out of this pointless discussion. If you insist on not seeing that you cannot reduce string spacing on the bridge photographed, there is nothing I can do.

Some bridges have the groove offcentre. There you can change things. If in the middle, there's nothing to do.
You keep saying you did it, but you did not in a bridge with grooves in the middle of the saddles, because it's just physically impossible, and you would realised that if you thought about it or made a drawing about it... You must be misremembering.

Over and out

Anyway...
 
Ok, I can't repeat it any clearer so I'll bow out of this pointless discussion. If you insist on not seeing that you cannot reduce string spacing on the bridge photographed, there is nothing I can do.

Some bridges have the groove offcentre. There you can change things. If in the middle, there's nothing to do.
You keep saying you did it, but you did not in a bridge with grooves in the middle of the saddles, because it's just physically impossible, and you would realised that if you thought about it or made a drawing about it... You must be misremembering.

Except I still have the bridges. The grooves are in the center of the saddle and the flip/swap works fine with them.

What's the harm in trying it? Worst that could happen is it doesn't work.
 
Except I still have the bridges. The grooves are in the center of the saddle and the flip/swap works fine with them.

What's the harm in trying it? Worst that could happen is it doesn't work.

I don't know why, but I've been following this thread. I initially had the same idea as you and posted it back when this was two threads. I quickly changed my mind when walterw, 96tbird and mcnach pointed out the flaw in that concept - centered saddle grooves mean that the spacing won't change, all you can accomplish by switching D & G screw and string holes is a poor angle on the screw saddle assembly, or having a space between A & D saddles with some of the G hanging off the bridge.

You haven't changed your mind at all so either you are very obstinate, or you are right. :)

I'd like for you to be right, that would make me look netcool because my original idea was right as well. :)

Since you have the bridges that this works on, could you post pics please?
 
I don't know why, but I've been following this thread. I initially had the same idea as you and posted it back when this was two threads. I quickly changed my mind when walterw, 96tbird and mcnach pointed out the flaw in that concept - centered saddle grooves mean that the spacing won't change, all you can accomplish by switching D & G screw and string holes is a poor angle on the screw saddle assembly, or having a space between A & D saddles with some of the G hanging off the bridge.

You haven't changed your mind at all so either you are very obstinate, or you are right. :)

I'd like for you to be right, that would make me look netcool because my original idea was right as well. :)

Since you have the bridges that this works on, could you post pics please?

I thought about posting pictures but decided against it. Why should I go to all that trouble? I know it has worked for me so I have nothing to prove. My ignore list has grown and if they can't reason it out for themselves, it only reflects on them.

The fact still remains that it will hurt nothing to try it.
 
I thought about posting pictures but decided against it. Why should I go to all that trouble? I know it has worked for me so I have nothing to prove. My ignore list has grown and if they can't reason it out for themselves, it only reflects on them.

The fact still remains that it will hurt nothing to try it.

Well you've gone through lots of trouble posting about it, so what harm to spend a bit more time to educate us?
 
Well you've gone through lots of trouble posting about it, so what harm to spend a bit more time to educate us?

Posting is one thing, it takes seconds. Going to all the trouble to disassemble an instrument and bridge, swap things around, take pictures, process the pictures, and then put it all back together just to show something I already know is ridiculous. It ain't gonna happen.

And it still won't hurt anything for the OP to try it, and that's the last I have to say on this topic.
 

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