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PYPB 44: ...like Tetris with boxes, wires and cables

#11,462
burl0029 said:
I haven't posted here in years. I finally finished my pedalboard build and now I need to fill it back up. I was actually planning a bigger board but decided against it once I bought the HX. I sat down and made digital versions of the pedals I owned in the HX and kept selling things after I had a good patch made. Now that I have most of the standard categories covered with the HX I plan on maybe getting into more weird stuff to fill in the extra space.

Pedals I sold as a result of the HX:
  • Sansamp PBDI (I nearly cried; I've had a Sans as long as I've played bass)
  • Akai Unibass (it took some creative work, but I have a more flexible and better-sounding patch)
  • EHX Small Clone
  • Boss Phaser
  • Ampeg Sub Blaster octave
  • Ibanez Bass Tube Screamer
  • Dano Vibrato
  • TC Polytune 2 mini
  • Carl Martin Classic Opto-Comp
  • Source Audio Programmable EQ
I've always loved the idea of digital flexibility but never really found one that I liked for tone and ease of use until I tried the HX. Here's the board.

View attachment 3752480 View attachment 3752481 View attachment 3752482 View attachment 3752486

I always wanted a live in board and case. I found a case that was a good size and then modified it by adding a suitcase handle, wheels and two giant edge handles for lifting the lid off the top (forgot to take a pic of that). I then built an angled board with slots on top for cables. The top of the board folds up (and stays up on its own thanks to the lid stays I found) for storage and cable routing. The board is covered in rubber truck bed liner paint. All my cables, power, accessories, wireless pack and receiver are underneath. The back edge has all my I/O stuff including a switch to run wireless or with a cable as a backup, a switch for an effect loop if I want to add something in without rewiring and a courtesy outlet for whatever I like. I'm pretty happy with the result.

And now the really fun part begins: filling in the gaps!
Click to expand...
You built the board yourself? Would love some more detail of what's going on there and how you put it all together.
 
#11,463
pbass6811 said:
Love the board! Very tidy!

Any thoughts on picking up a Way Huge Pork & Pickles Smalls, or would combining them lose something for you? I like what I've heard so far, so I just ordered one.
Click to expand...

I wanted to be able to use them separately. I was going to get the P&P to use as a Russian until I found the Russian for cheap. I like that it adds the clean and other features of the Pork Loin, but the simplicity of the Russian Pickle is nice as well and it really leaves nothing to be desired for me.
 
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#11,464
20200326_141825.jpg

This has been the same for several months and I'm pretty dang happy with it.
I will, for now, change out the muffs from time to time but the Sovtek wins out for sure in a head to head.
 
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#11,466
callofcthulhu said:
You built the board yourself? Would love some more detail of what's going on there and how you put it all together.
Click to expand...
OK, buckle in.

As mentioned before, I found a case I liked online and bought it. From there things got a little more complicated.
  • Grab Handles: In the following pics you can see the grab handles on the lid. I bought those separately and installed them. This involved cutting out holes in the lid to insert the new handles through. I used a drill with a 1/2" bit to give me a place to start cutting with my jig saw. I used a fine-toothed jig saw blade to cut the holes to full size, zipping right through the wood and aluminum extrusions. Last I used my handy-dandy rivet tool to secure the handles to the case. This was my first attempt at using a rivet tool and it worked pretty well once I figured out the right touch (thanks, YouTube).
  • Wheels: The wheels were basically the same process as above. I spent way too much time trying to find the right wheels to work with my case. I really wanted rollerblade-style wheels, but most were too big for the limited depth I had to work with on the bottom of the case. These are fine for smoother surfaces but don't have the same give as a rollerblade wheel would on rough surfaces. In the end they were a good compromise as they also don't elevate the board too much from the floor when in use; the wheels double as feet when either laying flat or standing on end. Rollerblade wheels would have raised the board higher off the floor and required larger rubber feet underneath to level the board.
  • Suitcase Handle: There are purpose-made handles for this, but they were expensive and too bulky given the shallow depth of the bottom portion of the case. I bought a cheap folding dolly from Amazon and removed the bottom portion of it. I then drilled holes in the case and made the edges rectangular to match the shape of the handle (again using my jig saw and a file for finishing work). The handle was constructed in such a way that I was able to remove the handle at the top, slide the bars through the holes in the case and then reattach the handle. You can see in the photo below that I drilled holes in the lower part of the aluminum bars of the handle and screwed it down to the case bottom.
  • Storage: I bought a plain plastic organizer and cut out a piece of it to allow it to fit over the handle bar. I then screwed it down to the bottom of the case. One of the tricky things I found was the latches on the front of the organizer were very difficult to operate due to limited space so I removed them and added three tiny foam rubber bumpers to the bottom of the board deck. This way when the board is closed they apply slight pressure to the cover of the organizer to keep it from opening during transit.
IMG_1034.JPG IMG_1035.JPG IMG_1036.JPG IMG_1046.JPG

  • The Wood: I used plain old 3/4" plywood for the whole board. I cut the vertical parts at the proper angles to give the board a nice slant from back to front. While I like many of the multi-tiered boards I've seen, they're not as versatile in the long run and don't allow for maximizing surface usage as well as a one-level board. I cut oval holes into the deck for cable routing. I covered all exposed surfaces of the wood with truck bed liner paint.
  • Surface: I found some velcro on Amazon that was actually large enough to cover the whole surface in one piece (somewhat difficult to find). I ended up using Super 77 spray adhesive to get it to stick to the deck. I then used an x-acto knife to cut out the extra covering the slots cut into the surface. I then applied aluminum L-shaped extrusions from Menards to the deck edges with countersunk screws. This serves two purposes: protect the edges of the deck and cover the edges of the velcro for a finished look. I cut the pieces to size using a compound miter saw.
  • Lid Stays: I found some really great lid stays (designed for a toolbox) on Amazon. They're stiff enough that they hold the deck up without any help even loaded with pedals, but smooth enough that they're not difficult to open and close.

IMG_1038.JPG IMG_1039.JPG IMG_1045.JPG

  • Electronics Exterior: First a word on my base idea. I chose this particular design and layout primarily because I wanted switches and jacks that were protected from the elements. I've seen some similar live-in pedalboards that have the jacks mounted to the exterior of the case and I didn't want those exposed to potentially get wet or dirty. While scouring the interwebs for ideas I found a great website called redco.com where they create custom audio things. The main thing I wanted from them was the little plastic custom labels around each of the jacks. I had originally planned to just drill holes and mount the various jacks I needed but then I noticed their custom rack plates. They have a visual drag and drop editor where you can put nearly any type of AV-related jack/input/interface into your custom design and they will then make it for you for a very reasonable price. They didn't have the power rocker switch I wanted so I bought my own and cut a hole for it (again, drill followed by jig saw and file). Also, the toggle switches for the Wireless and FX Loop were my handiwork as well. I just had Redco create the labels and I drilled the holes for the switches and LEDs. This whole setup is great because it looks clean and was easy to do. The XLR jack is currently not connected to anything as I'm still debating what I want to do (maybe a simple DI box under the surface). Most of the time I just use the DI on my amp to feed the house so it's not an urgent need.
  • Electronics Interior: I needed an internal patch bay for all of the pedal connections. I used angle aluminum to build the patch bay and then a piece of flat aluminum stock as the cover that can be removed with just two screws. The patch bay is hard wired to the jacks on the outside of the board. I especially enjoyed the wiring as I've always loved soldering for some reason.
  • Power: I've always had good luck (aka, no noise) with daisy chain power (Godlyke Powerall) so I decided to keep that for the small pedals and included a power strip (with EMI/RFI noise filtering) to plug that and the other stuff into. To keep things simple and clean I cut the plug off the power strip and soldered the wires directly to the power input jack. I included a courtesy outlet on my pedalboard (for my amp if needed or whatever else). Since the internal power strip has noise filtering I wanted to take advantage of that by plugging my courtesy outlet into it. I simply reused the plug I cut off the power strip and soldered it to the poles on the courtesy outlet. I then plugged it into the power strip. Even after plugging in the Powerall and HX effects I still have a couple outlet spaces available for future needs (I'll probably put a charger in there for my phone at some point).
  • Wiring: I used some stick on/screw down cable organizers for routing my cables to the underside of the deck. I kept the audio and power cables neatly segregated to keep it tidy and clean sounding.
IMG_1037.JPG IMG_1041.JPG IMG_1042.JPG IMG_1043.JPG IMG_1044.JPG

  • Misc: I have some of those aluminum effect switch toppers on the way to make the pedals easier to stomp at home. I ordered two colors so I can color-code each pedal to know which loop it is wired to on the HXFX. I'll probably use a sharpie to write on the edge of each topper a number to signify what order they're in within each loop. Speaking of, the external FX loop on the board is wired into the #1 spot on loop 2 currently but could easily be rearranged thanks to the patch bay.
I have a few ideas about things I might like to add in the future:
  • Multi-bass stand within the lid that folds out
  • Bling lighting; maybe some LED strip lighting that pulses with the beat
  • I bought some small pressure switches that I may yet make use of by placing one under the deck to automatically turn on some battery-powered LED lighting when the lid opens so I can see all my accessories under there on dark stages
  • Depending on how many extra pedals end up in the HX loops I may build an effects order switcher to allow me to rearrange the pedals within the loops
Let me know if you have any other questions. Back to playing...
 
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#11,467
6D6DC287-B6FB-43E9-9987-ECFBA2AD547F.jpeg
Newly renovated.
Into the Bassbone.
Bassbone effects loop order:
MXR Bass Octave Deluxe
EHX Bassballs
EHX Bass Big Muff
Mooer Shimverb

Out of the Shimverb into the Boss LS-2
B Loop of LS-2: Mooer Bass Sweeper (Bassballs Clone)
A Loop of LS-2: Nothing (So I can have a clean blend with the Sweeper)
Out of LS-2 back into Bassbone Effects Loop

From the Tuner Out of the Bassbone into the TC Polytune2 Noir.
 
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#11,468
GrooveWarrior said:
View attachment 3760302 Newly renovated.
Into the Bassbone.
Bassbone effects loop order:
MXR Bass Octave Deluxe
EHX Bassballs
EHX Bass Big Muff
Mooer Shimverb

Out of the Shimverb into the Boss LS-2
B Loop of LS-2: Mooer Bass Sweeper (Bassballs Clone)
A Loop of LS-2: Nothing (So I can have a clean blend with the Sweeper)
Out of LS-2 back into Bassbone Effects Loop

From the Tuner Out of the Bassbone into the TC Polytune2 Noir.
Click to expand...


Well, I just learned something new. If I designate the OD switch on the Bassbone to operate the Loop only, it retains the wet/dry control!!!!! The whole reason for the LS-2 and the Sweeper was to keep a dry signal integrated with it. Mind blown!!!!
I use the octave/Bassballs/muff for a synth sound, and the LS-2/Sweeper for a funky sound on a couple of tunes. ive only had the Bassbone for a day, and I already love this thing.
 
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#11,469
burl0029 said:
OK, buckle in.

As mentioned before, I found a case I liked online and bought it. From there things got a little more complicated.
  • Grab Handles: In the following pics you can see the grab handles on the lid. I bought those separately and installed them. This involved cutting out holes in the lid to insert the new handles through. I used a drill with a 1/2" bit to give me a place to start cutting with my jig saw. I used a fine-toothed jig saw blade to cut the holes to full size, zipping right through the wood and aluminum extrusions. Last I used my handy-dandy rivet tool to secure the handles to the case. This was my first attempt at using a rivet tool and it worked pretty well once I figured out the right touch (thanks, YouTube).
  • Wheels: The wheels were basically the same process as above. I spent way too much time trying to find the right wheels to work with my case. I really wanted rollerblade-style wheels, but most were too big for the limited depth I had to work with on the bottom of the case. These are fine for smoother surfaces but don't have the same give as a rollerblade wheel would on rough surfaces. In the end they were a good compromise as they also don't elevate the board too much from the floor when in use; the wheels double as feet when either laying flat or standing on end. Rollerblade wheels would have raised the board higher off the floor and required larger rubber feet underneath to level the board.
  • Suitcase Handle: There are purpose-made handles for this, but they were expensive and too bulky given the shallow depth of the bottom portion of the case. I bought a cheap folding dolly from Amazon and removed the bottom portion of it. I then drilled holes in the case and made the edges rectangular to match the shape of the handle (again using my jig saw and a file for finishing work). The handle was constructed in such a way that I was able to remove the handle at the top, slide the bars through the holes in the case and then reattach the handle. You can see in the photo below that I drilled holes in the lower part of the aluminum bars of the handle and screwed it down to the case bottom.
  • Storage: I bought a plain plastic organizer and cut out a piece of it to allow it to fit over the handle bar. I then screwed it down to the bottom of the case. One of the tricky things I found was the latches on the front of the organizer were very difficult to operate due to limited space so I removed them and added three tiny foam rubber bumpers to the bottom of the board deck. This way when the board is closed they apply slight pressure to the cover of the organizer to keep it from opening during transit.
View attachment 3759851 View attachment 3759852 View attachment 3759853 View attachment 3759862

  • The Wood: I used plain old 3/4" plywood for the whole board. I cut the vertical parts at the proper angles to give the board a nice slant from back to front. While I like many of the multi-tiered boards I've seen, they're not as versatile in the long run and don't allow for maximizing surface usage as well as a one-level board. I cut oval holes into the deck for cable routing. I covered all exposed surfaces of the wood with truck bed liner paint.
  • Surface: I found some velcro on Amazon that was actually large enough to cover the whole surface in one piece (somewhat difficult to find). I ended up using Super 77 spray adhesive to get it to stick to the deck. I then used an x-acto knife to cut out the extra covering the slots cut into the surface. I then applied aluminum L-shaped extrusions from Menards to the deck edges with countersunk screws. This serves two purposes: protect the edges of the deck and cover the edges of the velcro for a finished look. I cut the pieces to size using a compound miter saw.
  • Lid Stays: I found some really great lid stays (designed for a toolbox) on Amazon. They're stiff enough that they hold the deck up without any help even loaded with pedals, but smooth enough that they're not difficult to open and close.

View attachment 3759855 View attachment 3759856 View attachment 3759861

  • Electronics Exterior: First a word on my base idea. I chose this particular design and layout primarily because I wanted switches and jacks that were protected from the elements. I've seen some similar live-in pedalboards that have the jacks mounted to the exterior of the case and I didn't want those exposed to potentially get wet or dirty. While scouring the interwebs for ideas I found a great website called redco.com where they create custom audio things. The main thing I wanted from them was the little plastic custom labels around each of the jacks. I had originally planned to just drill holes and mount the various jacks I needed but then I noticed their custom rack plates. They have a visual drag and drop editor where you can put nearly any type of AV-related jack/input/interface into your custom design and they will then make it for you for a very reasonable price. They didn't have the power rocker switch I wanted so I bought my own and cut a hole for it (again, drill followed by jig saw and file). Also, the toggle switches for the Wireless and FX Loop were my handiwork as well. I just had Redco create the labels and I drilled the holes for the switches and LEDs. This whole setup is great because it looks clean and was easy to do. The XLR jack is currently not connected to anything as I'm still debating what I want to do (maybe a simple DI box under the surface). Most of the time I just use the DI on my amp to feed the house so it's not an urgent need.
  • Electronics Interior: I needed an internal patch bay for all of the pedal connections. I used angle aluminum to build the patch bay and then a piece of flat aluminum stock as the cover that can be removed with just two screws. The patch bay is hard wired to the jacks on the outside of the board. I especially enjoyed the wiring as I've always loved soldering for some reason.
  • Power: I've always had good luck (aka, no noise) with daisy chain power (Godlyke Powerall) so I decided to keep that for the small pedals and included a power strip (with EMI/RFI noise filtering) to plug that and the other stuff into. To keep things simple and clean I cut the plug off the power strip and soldered the wires directly to the power input jack. I included a courtesy outlet on my pedalboard (for my amp if needed or whatever else). Since the internal power strip has noise filtering I wanted to take advantage of that by plugging my courtesy outlet into it. I simply reused the plug I cut off the power strip and soldered it to the poles on the courtesy outlet. I then plugged it into the power strip. Even after plugging in the Powerall and HX effects I still have a couple outlet spaces available for future needs (I'll probably put a charger in there for my phone at some point).
  • Wiring: I used some stick on/screw down cable organizers for routing my cables to the underside of the deck. I kept the audio and power cables neatly segregated to keep it tidy and clean sounding.
View attachment 3759854 View attachment 3759857 View attachment 3759858 View attachment 3759859 View attachment 3759860

  • Misc: I have some of those aluminum effect switch toppers on the way to make the pedals easier to stomp at home. I ordered two colors so I can color-code each pedal to know which loop it is wired to on the HXFX. I'll probably use a sharpie to write on the edge of each topper a number to signify what order they're in within each loop. Speaking of, the external FX loop on the board is wired into the #1 spot on loop 2 currently but could easily be rearranged thanks to the patch bay.
I have a few ideas about things I might like to add in the future:
  • Multi-bass stand within the lid that folds out
  • Bling lighting; maybe some LED strip lighting that pulses with the beat
  • I bought some small pressure switches that I may yet make use of by placing one under the deck to automatically turn on some battery-powered LED lighting when the lid opens so I can see all my accessories under there on dark stages
  • Depending on how many extra pedals end up in the HX loops I may build an effects order switcher to allow me to rearrange the pedals within the loops
Let me know if you have any other questions. Back to playing...
Click to expand...

Ok, that's just ridiculously bad@$$! I dig the idea of some lighting underneath to see your accessories. I'm quite envious of your woodworking/metalworking/electrical working/soldering/just overall planning skills. My board has quite a few of the same features, but I had to order it from someone who could put it together, 'cause I ain't got those kinda skills. I'm hoping to have it next week...

You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar! Again, I say, WELL PLAYED, INDEED!
 
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#11,470
pbass6811 said:
Ok, that's just ridiculously bad@$$! I dig the idea of some lighting underneath to see your accessories. I'm quite envious of your woodworking/metalworking/electrical working/soldering/just overall planning skills. My board has quite a few of the same features, but I had to order it from someone who could put it together, 'cause I ain't got those kinda skills. I'm hoping to have it next week...

You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar! Again, I say, WELL PLAYED, INDEED!
Click to expand...
I'm excited to see what you ended up with. There are few things more fun than getting exactly what you want. BTW, I also have a SDrum on the way to use as a practice tool. I'm looking forward to that.
 
#11,476
burl0029 said:
It's been forever since I've tried a VTDI (I've always been a fan of the original Sans). How does it compare sound wise?
Click to expand...

I originally got it as an overdrive pedal, but I think it works better as an end-of-chain tone sculptor/fattener. Being able to sweep the mids really opens it up.

GrooveWarrior said:
what is the Vintage Bass Octave? I don't think I've actually seen that one before. How is it different from the Bass Octave Deluxe?
Click to expand...

It's basically MXR's take on the Boss OC-2, in a smaller package with improved tracking and a mid boost.
 
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#11,477
LSMFT6 said:
I originally got it as an overdrive pedal, but I think it works better as an end-of-chain tone sculptor/fattener. Being able to sweep the mids really opens it up.
Click to expand...
Interesting. That's pretty much what I've always used mine for as well (end of chain). Now that I have it in the HX though, I'm going to start messing with the location in the chain. I know one thing that probably won't change is keeping all my dirt in front of it. I love what it does to them.
 
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