PYPB 44: ...like Tetris with boxes, wires and cables

[Sugarbear08]

Unchanged:

Still doing this:

View attachment 5220688

Regarding other board, was doing this:

View attachment 5220690

But now doing this:

View attachment 5220692

Yowza!

Also... pondering the construction of a 3rd board.

Regarding other board, now doing this and VERY happy!

3rd board still a work in progress.

 

[RestlessBoom]

Modular, multi-amp/FOH setup.

 

[Stellvia]

First band practice with the new board! Recently upgraded from a Rockboard Duo to the Quad 4.1, got a new power supply as well, using a Mono Large power supply (upgraded from a Cioks DC5). Using the USB output on the Mono to power an LED strip light that I've stuck around the under edge for a fun backlight glow (inspired by @kevk amazing boards). The MBD, Mira and Slotva are all fairly new to the setup. Awaiting a Jive that will probably take the place of the B1K. I also just added the Infinity back to the setup for utility use (some EQ, post drive comp and gate). I replaced a Hyperluminal with the Mira and realised now that the entire setup has been purchased over the course of this year alone!!!

 

[TOOL460002]

View attachment 5248876
First band practice with the new board! Recently upgraded from a Rockboard Duo to the Quad 4.1, got a new power supply as well, using a Mono Large power supply (upgraded from a Cioks DC5). Using the USB output on the Mono to power an LED strip light that I've stuck around the under edge for a fun backlight glow (inspired by @kevk amazing boards). The MBD, Mira and Slotva are all fairly new to the setup. Awaiting a Jive that will probably take the place of the B1K. I also just added the Infinity back to the setup for utility use (some EQ, post drive comp and gate). I replaced a Hyperluminal with the Mira and realised now that the entire setup has been purchased over the course of this year alone!!!

Pretty.

 

[Mr. voodoobass]

Back to eq2 as pre and post eq/preamp.

Afterneath is used for synth and goes into 2nd fx return of stomp.

 

[Rocksolid]

Back to eq2 as pre and post eq/preamp. View attachment 5248933 Afterneath is used for synth and goes into 2nd fx return of stomp.

I miss my Studio Bass. Should have held onto it.

 

[J Posega]

I've been pretty actively displeased with the Temple Audio board for a while. I decided to simplify for now while I try to decide what to do next. Signal flow is not as it appears.

Board input > Smoothie > Polytune 3 > Octabvre > Bass Whammy > BEAD > Fifth Gear > BBD > MBD1 > Narwhal (a Muff) > Joshwah > Collider > Board output

Here's where most of my displeasure comes from: my Cioks DC10 has a big footprint (expertly drawn in red) under the board and nothing can be mounted directly on top of it. The DC10 is so tall under the board that even if I mounted it to the underside rails, it wouldn't make any difference.

I'm not excited about the idea of throwing $400 at two Hi5 mods, so I'm trying to crowdsource some knowledge on how others setup their Temple Audio boards. No, I will not switch from plates to Velcro.

 

[kevk]

I've been pretty actively displeased with the Temple Audio board for a while. I decided to simplify for now while I try to decide what to do next. Signal flow is not as it appears.

Board input > Smoothie > Polytune 3 > Octabvre > Bass Whammy > BEAD > Fifth Gear > BBD > MBD1 > Narwhal (a Muff) > Joshwah > Collider > Board output

View attachment 5249361

Here's where most of my displeasure comes from: my Cioks DC10 has a big footprint (expertly drawn in red) under the board and nothing can be mounted directly on top of it. The DC10 is so tall under the board that even if I mounted it to the underside rails, it wouldn't make any difference.

I'm not excited about the idea of throwing $400 at two Hi5 mods, so I'm trying to crowdsource some knowledge on how others setup their Temple Audio boards. No, I will not switch from plates to Velcro.
View attachment 5249365

I use Temple boards…I do use 10 lb rated Velcro (thin strips) that doesn't cover any 1/4" holes, but my method of securing a power supply underneath should(?) allow for plate knobs. I've never used a plate knob though, so not sure. I'm guessing needle-nose pliers would be helpful? This pic does NOT represent actual size parts (didn't have any unused correct-size parts for a pic) but should give you mounting ideas, using some combination to get desired gap. The screw head is just large enough to not fall thru the tiny holes, so brick can be mounted virtually anywhere that a DC-7 will clear underneath…

My DC-7 is approx 1/2" gap from my board…enough room to run EBS cables underneath. I can change/re-route them to a large hole, without ever messing with the power brick…

I also mount like this to allow for LED lighting to be more consistent throughout the board…

 

[J Posega]

I use Temple boards…I do use 10 lb rated Velcro (thin strips) that doesn't cover any 1/4" holes, but my method of securing a power supply underneath should(?) allow for plate knobs. I've never used a plate knob though, so not sure. I'm guessing needle-nose pliers would be helpful? This pic does NOT represent actual size parts (didn't have any unused correct-size parts for a pic) but should give you mounting ideas, using some combination to get desired gap. The screw head is just large enough to not fall thru the tiny holes, so brick can be mounted virtually anywhere that a DC-7 will clear underneath…View attachment 5249612
My DC-7 is approx 3/4" gap from my board…enough room to run EBS cables underneath. I can change/re-route them to a large hole, without ever messing with the power brick…View attachment 5249614
I also mount like this to allow for LED lighting to be more consistent throughout the board…View attachment 5249615View attachment 5249683

I think the issue is that my slightly-older DC10 is at least an inch thick, if not more. Combine that with the standoffs you use to mount the PSU with the tiny screws they give you, and there's no room to fit anything between the PSU and bottom of the board. If the PSU sat any further away from the board, it would drag on the floor.

 

[kevk]

I think the issue is that my slightly-older DC10 is at least an inch thick, if not more. Combine that with the standoffs you use to mount the PSU with the tiny screws they give you, and there's no room to fit anything between the PSU and bottom of the board. If the PSU sat any further away from the board, it would drag on the floor.

DC-7, SOL, 4, are 1" thick. I immediately discard the stock (4mm thread) screws and spend time at the local hardware store getting longer screws/spacers…so that the screw still penetrates the brick by the same distance as intended, given the spacers in-between. I use all 3 DC-7 mounting holes for stability. Maybe the DC-10 is thicker?

Fwiw…given my DC-7 placement location, the bottom of the DC-7 doesn't even extend to the bottom frame of the board. I set a level across the bottom of the board—there's still 3/8" clearance (level to brick, given 1/2" gap between top of brick and board)

[EDiT/add: just measured gap—actually using 1/2" gap (not 3/4") but it does allow EBS and power cable movement between. But possible to create a 7/8" gap between brick to board, which I'd think would clear a plate knob? And if that's not enough, you could move the (1.4") DC-10 more towards the front of the board]

This is all overly detailed…but been thru a lot of trial and error, trying to get the most out of a Temple board…seriously trying to be helpful.

 

[sloppy_phil]

I've been pretty actively displeased with the Temple Audio board for a while. I decided to simplify for now while I try to decide what to do next. Signal flow is not as it appears.

Board input > Smoothie > Polytune 3 > Octabvre > Bass Whammy > BEAD > Fifth Gear > BBD > MBD1 > Narwhal (a Muff) > Joshwah > Collider > Board output

View attachment 5249361

Here's where most of my displeasure comes from: my Cioks DC10 has a big footprint (expertly drawn in red) under the board and nothing can be mounted directly on top of it. The DC10 is so tall under the board that even if I mounted it to the underside rails, it wouldn't make any difference.

I'm not excited about the idea of throwing $400 at two Hi5 mods, so I'm trying to crowdsource some knowledge on how others setup their Temple Audio boards. No, I will not switch from plates to Velcro.
View attachment 5249365

I'm sure this is an overly simplistic suggestion, but have you considered going to a hardware store and buying some rubber chair feet? Then you can epoxy/super glue them to the existing feet, and get the extra clearance you'd need. I did something similar with my PT Nano, and Metro (but only on the back two feet) in order to achieve a more stomp-friendly angle.

 

[bass-shy]

I'm sure this is an overly simplistic suggestion, but have you considered going to a hardware store and buying some rubber chair feet? Then you can epoxy/super glue them to the existing feet, and get the extra clearance you'd need. I did something similar with my PT Nano, and Metro (but only on the back two feet) in order to achieve a more stomp-friendly angle.

View attachment 5249771

I did the same thing. Works great and everything still fits conveniently in the case.

 

[TOOL460002]

I'm sure this is an overly simplistic suggestion, but have you considered going to a hardware store and buying some rubber chair feet? Then you can epoxy/super glue them to the existing feet, and get the extra clearance you'd need. I did something similar with my PT Nano, and Metro (but only on the back two feet) in order to achieve a more stomp-friendly angle.

View attachment 5249771

Cross-post, but I promise you can jam all kinds of crap under a PT with the platform shoes (there's a MIDI hub on top of the DC10, so it can be done):

 

[J Posega]

DC-7, SOL, 4, are 1" thick. I immediately discard the stock (4mm thread) screws and spend time at the local hardware store getting longer screws/spacers…so that the screw still penetrates the brick by the same distance as intended, given the spacers in-between. I use all 3 DC-7 mounting holes for stability. Maybe the DC-10 is thicker?

Fwiw…given my DC-7 placement location, the bottom of the DC-7 doesn't even extend to the bottom frame of the board. I set a level across the bottom of the board—there's still 3/8" clearance (level to brick, given 1/2" gap between top of brick and board)View attachment 5249718

[EDiT/add: just measured gap—actually using 1/2" gap (not 3/4") but it does allow EBS and power cable movement between. But possible to create a 7/8" gap between brick to board, which I'd think would clear a plate knob? And if that's not enough, you could move the (1.4") DC-10 more towards the front of the board]View attachment 5249730
This is all overly detailed…but been thru a lot of trial and error, trying to get the most out of a Temple board…seriously trying to be helpful.

Thanks, I appreciate the extra detail. My DC10 is a little older and thicker than their newer PSUs, so I'll have to do some measuring to see if I moved it towards the back (tall end) of the board if I could gain any more meaningful distance between the PSU and underside of the board.

To those suggesting adding taller feet, while I could do that, I like having the underside mounted rail to help protect the PSU a bit and hide some of the cabling.

 

[theunknowndude]

Moved a few things around, got rid of the alpha omicron and the walrus audio slo - kangra and gonkulator in their place… just waiting on my micro muff to come in to take place of the cog 66…

 

[Matt Dean]

It seems like I've been a little inactive on TB lately… I've been working on some non-music creative endeavors. But I'm still playing a lot in my space rock band. We've been dropping content on Bandcamp. My board has been pretty stable until lately; I put the Blue Beard back on the board (accept no substitute) and swapped the XeroD for the MicroTron III. I'm also using the DCX a little differently - using it more as an overdrive.

 

[Stubb]

Great to see you back, Matt.

 

[Nekomata]

Scored a flightcase; crammed all my pedals into said flightcase; pressing switches and turning knobs like there is no tomorrow:

 

[Grahams Groove]

Some changes and swaps now that I've switched to the Mesa M9 Carbine head. Needed an HPF and LPF on the board. I figured the Messenger Jr would be a good option in case I need a backup DI or go ampless. I'm digging how spaced out and clean it feels…

 

[JackMinion]

Some changes and swaps now that I've switched to the Mesa M9 Carbine head. Needed an HPF and LPF on the board. I figured the Messenger Jr would be a good option in case I need a backup DI or go ampless. I'm digging how spaced out and clean it feels…

Is that two halves of a DeathStar awesome!