Question regarding wax

[basszoned]

Good Morning,

I purchased a parts bass with a natural finish.
The owner told me he used a DIY concoction of wipe on poly using equal parts mineral spirits, boiled linseed oil, and oil based polyurethane.

While it looks ok, I was wondering if a coat of wax will help it.
Is this a good idea ?
If so, what wax would be ideal ?

Thank you..

 

[Zooberwerx]

If it withstands normal handling, it should do the same with any readily-available quality wax. My favorite is BriWax which was recommended by Rob Elrick.

Riis

 

[Lo-E]

While it looks ok, I was wondering if a coat of wax will help it.

The concoction you describe is basically a homemade version of “danish oil” such as Watco and the like. It’s very common to follow that up with a coat of furniture wax.

Years ago, Carl Thompson told me he used Watco Danish Oil followed by Butcher’s wax on all of his basses and I’ve followed his lead on a number of natural finish instruments since. I like it. The wax adds a nice luster to the oil finish but you do have to reapply it once or twice per year.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I use real Caranuba wax on my Tru-Oil fished basses, but I had a hard time finding the real stuff locally. It doesn't add a lot of protection, but buffs up nice and shiny.

 

[toastw]

The same people who make Tru-Oil also make a great wax blend called Birchwood Casey Gun Stock Wax. It offers greater protection (and more gloss/shine) than Tru-Oil. Rub about three layers of that on top of your oil finish, and you should be good. The stuff's about fifteen bucks if I remember correctly.

 

[Reedt2000]

What does it look like now? Pics?

What sort of finish do you want?

Sounds like it had a pretty thin finish put on initially, probably just to seal and protect the wood, so as has been pointed out wax might not be a bad idea to protect a little more and make it shine up a bit.

If ultimately you want a thick, glossy finish, you could scuff it and add layers of poly, then cut and buff.

 

[Plain Old Barry]

If it withstands normal handling, it should do the same with any readily-available quality wax. My favorite is BriWax which was recommended by Rob Elrick.

Riis

Be careful with Briwax. It's solvent is Tolulene which can damage some finishes and plastics. I have a lot of experience with the stuff and used correctly it's great stuff, but know and understand it's uses and incompatibilities.

Read First - Briwax International, Inc

Briwax

briwax.com

Real Caranuba wax can be easier to find in some locations in automotive stores than paint or finishing stores. Many automotive products are fantastic on instruments. I'm a fan of Meguiars, Chemical Boys, or Mother's instant detailer pump sprays for quick polishes.

 

[Dirk Diggler]

You could try Howard Feed-n-Wax. Great stuff, only orange oil and beeswax.
I use it over Danish oil finish which is mostly linseed oil. It works great and feeds the wood as well.

 

[basszoned]

Thank you all for the input !!!
much appreciated.

 

[basszoned]

Thank you all for taking the time to help !

 

[Jazzdogg]

Be careful with Briwax. It's solvent is Tolulene which can damage some finishes and plastics. I have a lot of experience with the stuff and used correctly it's great stuff, but know and understand it's uses and incompatibilities.

Read First - Briwax International, Inc

Briwax

briwax.com

Real Caranuba wax can be easier to find in some locations in automotive stores than paint or finishing stores. Many automotive products are fantastic on instruments. I'm a fan of Meguiars, Chemical Boys, or Mother's instant detailer pump sprays for quick polishes.

I'm a retired college woodworking instructor and I will not use Briwax; don't like the smell, side-effects, fire risk, or health risks associated with toluene at all.

My favorite wax is Liberon Black Bison.

 

[jTrolt]

The paste waxes mentioned above are intended for use on thick, glossy finishes. They may work, but may not be ideal.

Recommended:
Watco Satin Finishing Wax. Manufacturer says on the label: " Provides a Rich, Soft-Satin Lustre to Oil Finished Woods"
It's thin, like a baby-food consistency. Cliff notes version of their instructions:
Shake can, spread an thin, even coat. Wait 10 minutes, wipe clean and dry, polish with a soft cloth.
"Solvent: Nonphotochemically reactive", whatever that means, so as others have stated, test on inconspicuous area for ill effects on plastics. Once dried and buffed, this should no longer be a concern.

I think you'll find it's easier to work with on the finish you describe.

 

[bherman]

Woodworker here as well as a bass player. My favorite wax is Renaissance (link here). I often mix and use the blend that you describe in your OP, if applied correctly it is a very good, durable finish. The wax will not harm your finish.

 

[Plain Old Barry]

The paste waxes mentioned above are intended for use on thick, glossy finishes. They may work, but may not be ideal.

Any paste wax can be rubbed to a satin finish with steel wool or extra fine 3M Scotchbrite pads.

 

[jTrolt]

Any paste wax can be rubbed to a satin finish with steel wool or extra fine 3M Scotchbrite pads.

Of course. My mistake, interjecting "gloss", as it just added confusion.
I'm simply pointing out that the Watco is designed for oil/varnish blends by a manufacturer of these finishes, as they are a more open-pored finish, vs a traditional full thickness film-forming, gloss, satin or flat.
If it's a particularly thin, low build execution of an oil/varnish blend, the thicker pastes may cause more issues than generating any improvement. I shudder to think of that stuff getting plowed into open pores of a lightly coated oiled surface, whereas the Watco Satin Finishing Wax is formulated thinner so it blends better and gives good results with less buffing and build up of the thicker products.