Thanks!
No lie? Very cool, I’ll give that a try.
On the same note, does anyone know what the cable is called?
-ScottM
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No lie? Very cool, I’ll give that a try.
On the same note, does anyone know what the cable is called?
-ScottM
What cable? Just use an instrument cable of any kind, I’m fond of my divine noise coily cables
I bet that head sounds killer coming through that cab!
Sorry about that, I was referring back to my original post. Let me try to make more sense this time.
So, I heard that you can bypass the preamp on the BB800. I thought I could use the DI out on my new preamp pedal, and come into the line in on the BB800 to do so.
If this is true, what kind of cable does this connection use?
-ScottM
Lowendtech
Happily trending in my own peculiar direction.
The DI out of your preamp might not have enough output to properly drive the Line in of the BB800. It could be line level, it could be Mic Level, and the Master volume of your Preamp probably won't change the output from the DI. I would be using the 1/4" out of your preamp to go into your BB800, either into the Active or Passive input on the front or the Line in on the back, and use the DI out to go to the mixing desk. If you use the line in, you will need an unbalanced 1/4 to xlr (male) cable. I purchased my BB to replace a QSC PLX 1804 Power Amp. I intended to bypass the BB's Pre also, but after experimenting, I found I preferred to go thru the front. The BB is flat response with the controls at noon in my experience. I would certainly try both if I were you and see what you prefer.
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Anybody happen to have schematics for the tone stack in the BB800? Or at least frequency points or other information that could be helpful towards building a pedal of just the tone stack? I love my BB800 and have really found the tone controls intuitive and versatile, and would love to replicate the tones I've found via my pedalboard for recording, etc. I build my own pedals, but still kind of a beginner, so any pointers would be helpful.
I e-mailed Mr. Quilter just after the BB800's release, with similar questions, and here is his response, printed with his permission.
Hello Derek:
The challenge on our “block” series amps is to solve user problems with a minimum of space for controls, hopefully in a manner that allows players to quickly establish their sound and start making music rather than fiddling with multiple controls.
The two Bass Block EQ knobs are:
DEPTH: an active cut-boost bass control, with 12 dB of range and an unusually low hinge frequency of 100Hz, and a very high slope (24dB/octave) to provide pinpoint control of the relative loudness of the lowest strings and overall roundness of tone. This is coupled with a unique 2-stage limiter that prevents obtrusive “bottoming out”, even with heavy bass boost, without the lag or “gagging” effect of conventional limiters. High amounts of GAIN will produce a musically interesting “thrumming” or growling effect without actual hard clipping.
CONTOUR: the left side provides a 12dB mid cut at 300Hz, which tames the “bark” frequencies and leaves a nice “plicky” sound for a refined “studio” tone. The control is flat in the middle, and the right side engages a deep treble cut at 200Hz for a fully rounded old-school tone.
MASTER: This is the final loudness control, as you would expect, but it is located after the limiting system so it also regulates the peak output power. On full Master, the limiter system is calibrated to just reach the full power of the amp when pushed. As Master is reduced, this peak power point is also reduced accordingly, as indicated by the markings on the faceplate. This allows the amp to be adjusted to match any speaker rating. If your speaker exhibits any distress such as popping, bottoming out, or harsh clipping on aggressive peaks, reduce Master until it just clears up and you have found the optimum power for that load.
Unlike our guitar amps, the amplifier output impedance is fairly stiff for good control of large bass speakers, but we have not artificially boosted damping factor at the expense of tone or warmth.
Other “user safety tips” that we can pass along:
For silent bass tuning, use the Mute switch and connect the tuner to the other input jack. It will pick up enough cross-signal to give a good reading.
Be sure to provide a robust AC source for loud gigs. The amp itself is insensitive to AC voltage, like all our amps, but when loaded at 4 ohms and driven hard at full Master power, it can draw up to 15A on peaks, which can trip the breaker on AC strips if shared with other heavy loads such as PA speakers, subwoofers, or large tube amps. An 8 ohm load will cut current draw in half, and if you need to crowd onto one AC strip you could also reduce the Master volume as much as possible. Even a 3dB reduction (50%) will cut AC current in half so the show can go on. And of course we can recommend Quilter guitar amps and QSC PA speakers, which also have Class-D amplifiers for maximum efficiency and minimum possible AC current draw, but as everyone knows, “rocking the house” with bass frequencies requires serious peak powers.
You are welcome to post these notes to Talkbass. I looked up your Barefaced Baby 2 which looks like an interesting rig and should mate well with the Bass Block. You will get 450W into an 8-ohm load, but in our testing that suffices to obtain the maximum excursion potential of the best 12-inch drivers out there. Let us know how it works out.
Best regards
Pat Quilter "
Thanks for sharing. The operation of the Depth control is interesting.
It's been some time since I played the BB, but I wonder if Pat Q. meant to write "treble cut at 2000 Hz" (rather than 200 Hz). I could be wrong, but 200 Hz seems (depending on the shape of the cut) pretty low to me -- maybe that's what it is, though.
I would guess there is a little more to the story as far as the treble cut being so low. "Shape of the cut" as you say.
With the Bass cut at 100, and the treble cut at 200, that makes a big ole mid hump at 300hz for your "mid-boost" setting.
-- which is right where the mid cut is too on the contour knob.
I don't know the science behind the numbers. I do know that, when I turn the Depth counter-clockwise, and the Contour clockwise, I get a very nice low-mid peak. Whatever the "Quilter secret sauce" is, I like it. 
The treble rolloff was discussed earlier in the thread. It's 200hz.
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I, being a mediocre bassist, tend to simplify.
Depth:
To the left: radio cassette sound.
To the right: shake the windows sound.
Contour:
To the left: musicman/jazz sound.
To the right: precision/Jamerson sound.
Gain: volume.
Master: muscle.
Depth:
To the left: radio cassette sound.
To the right: shake the windows sound.
Contour:
To the left: musicman/jazz sound.
To the right: precision/Jamerson sound.
Gain: volume.
Master: muscle.
I'm going with 'he meant 2000Hz." Even then, I'm not sure I consider that to be 'treble.' I think of treble as being at least double that and up. Just me?
