Quilter Bass Block

[bebass]

Could have been one of those pesky noise ghosts. I think sandalwood incense is about the only thing that keeps those scoundrels away.

 

[Jeff Scott]

I'd like to see a stereo version of this amp, essentially, two amps in one chassis.

 

[MarkA]

I'd like to see a stereo version of this amp, essentially, two amps in one chassis.

Duct tape!

 

[GBass001]

OK, I was wondering because that's how I was using one of the prototypes when I experienced similar popping while engaging and disengaging the mute.

Incidentally, at that time, since I'm the sound guy too, we were not using drum overheads so no need for phantom power. It was definitely off. And while using the d.i. out to the board in that rehearsal space there was no noise no popping, etc.

 

[Johnny Mac]

The master volume controls the power output, not just the actual volume? Meaning if I had a cab that could handle, say, 400 watts at 4 ohms, I could set the master accordingly and not worry about blowing my speaker?

Does that have any tonal implications for the amp?

 

[GBass001]

No, I wouldn't expect popping to happen in such a situation.

I'd only mentioned having the line out plugged into a mixer that had phantom power switched on (unfortunately on that mixer it couldn't be switched for individual inputs, only all on or off). I wondered if that's what he meant by a "busy" circuit. In years of doing tech support I've learned that some people (and some regions) have unusual terminology for things.

I never had any other popping incidents with the mute switch outside of that one gig. I could tell the noise sounded like a temporary DC shift coupled through a capacitor, which led me to check the mixer the Bass Block was plugged into for phantom power; that was the only thing I could think of that would have a DC voltage. I was playing at a wedding service in a church, so I had to make do with what was there.

In hindsight, and as mentioned, I was actually running a fan on the same plug while this was happening.

 

[Mike Barry]

The master volume controls the power output, not just the actual volume? Meaning if I had a cab that could handle, say, 400 watts at 4 ohms, I could set the master accordingly and not worry about blowing my speaker?

Does that have any tonal implications for the amp?

Where you have the master set has no tonal implication for this amp...

 

[Johnny Mac]

The master volume controls the power output, not just the actual volume? Meaning if I had a cab that could handle, say, 400 watts at 4 ohms, I could set the master accordingly and not worry about blowing my speaker?

Anyone know the answer to this?

 

[Bob Lee (QSC)]

The master volume controls the power output, not just the actual volume? Meaning if I had a cab that could handle, say, 400 watts at 4 ohms, I could set the master accordingly and not worry about blowing my speaker?

That is true. The master level control is a little strange in that it does regulate how much power the power amp section will put out.

The amp itself should not cause any tonal differences from setting the master control, but there may be changes in how a loudspeaker reacts (for example, with power compression versus without) and in how a human ear responds to different sound pressure levels at various frequencies (as described in the equal loudness curves published by Fletcher and Munson and later by Dodson and Rabson).

 

[bebass]

The master volume controls the power output, not just the actual volume? Meaning if I had a cab that could handle, say, 400 watts at 4 ohms, I could set the master accordingly and not worry about blowing my speaker?

Does that have any tonal implications for the amp?

Bob quite nicely describes what can happen with tonal characteristics. One thing I would suggest is to never rely on am amp rating and speaker rating as sole consideration as to whether you don't have to worry about blowing your speaker. A speaker's thermal rating and an amp's power rating is not a one to one correlation but rather a dynamic consideration. The dynamic aspect is that the speaker heats up as you play it and a thermal rating can indeed be exceeded. I think, as many point out, that the "use your ears" principle applies. In other words listen for speaker distress. Also, be aware that if a person utilizes equalization or distortion on the lower frequencies then it is relative easy to overdo low bass frequency and a cab/speaker combo may or may not be able to handle 4 hrs of high output as it heats up. I think the use of the master volume is very good to do and the rating on the power output adjustment is a neat feature, but also listen for speaker distress.

 

[ric4682]

I think the use of the master volume is very good to do and the rating on the power output adjustment is a neat feature, but also listen for speaker distress.

Definitely an important consideration. Selecting the watts on the head can be a good guideline, but there are a lot of other things to look at. If you amp is set at 400 watts and you have your bass knob at 0 then you probably won't blow a 400 watt cab, but if you have the bass knob dimed you're going to have a problem even though the amp is technically putting out the same number of watts.

 

[Johnny Mac]

That is true. The master level control is a little strange in that it does regulate how much power the power amp section will put out.

The amp itself should not cause any tonal differences from setting the master control, but there may be changes in how a loudspeaker reacts (for example, with power compression versus without) and in how a human ear responds to different sound pressure levels at various frequencies (as described in the equal loudness curves published by Fletcher and Munson and later by Dodson and Rabson).

Bob quite nicely describes what can happen with tonal characteristics. One thing I would suggest is to never rely on am amp rating and speaker rating as sole consideration as to whether you don't have to worry about blowing your speaker. A speaker's thermal rating and an amp's power rating is not a one to one correlation but rather a dynamic consideration. The dynamic aspect is that the speaker heats up as you play it and a thermal rating can indeed be exceeded. I think, as many point out, that the "use your ears" principle applies. In other words listen for speaker distress. Also, be aware that if a person utilizes equalization or distortion on the lower frequencies then it is relative easy to overdo low bass frequency and a cab/speaker combo may or may not be able to handle 4 hrs of high output as it heats up. I think the use of the master volume is very good to do and the rating on the power output adjustment is a neat feature, but also listen for speaker distress.

Thank you both very much! I would probably run the Bass Block at slightly lower power than my current amp until I replace my cab. I do use distortion but I also hi-pass my signal to cut out the excess lows.

One last question: are the low- and hi-cut controls on the amp a standard EQ or a low/hi-pass filter? Sounds like the former but I figured I would double check.

 

[bebass]

Thank you both very much! I would probably run the Bass Block at slightly lower power than my current amp until I replace my cab. I do use distortion but I also hi-pass my signal to cut out the excess lows.

One last question: are the low- and hi-cut controls on the amp a standard EQ or a low/hi-pass filter? Sounds like the former but I figured I would double check.

Quilter has a unique EQ adjustment that is not what we normally see on bass amps. I tried it with a hollow body bass which can be boomy so as to see if the bass could be adjusted properly. I could tame the lows just fine but I admit I will have to play around with this unique approach a bit more as the two different adjustment are interactive and although I didn't push the amp any louder except a quick check of the gradations (see below) on the Master control as it would have hurt my ears in the room I was in, I suspect these adjustments also sound different with different gain settings. I may be wrong and someone who has more experience with this amp can tell us. I only had about 5 minutes to check this out.
Since you asked about the Master control, I forgot to mention that one technical aspect is that the Master power control has detents or gradation with each click being a relative small adjustment. I have not yet bothered reading the owners manual (OK I admit to having never read any owners manual including software, computer hardware and bass and guitar equipment) so I don't know specifically if each gradation is supposed to correlate to a specific watt power increase. I will ask Quilter or break down and read the manual - ha ha.

 

[Bob Lee (QSC)]

Yes, the EQ controls are unusual. I've only used a prototype that was lent to me, and I was skeptical at first about the EQ. But I found that I could very quickly come up with a tone that I really liked. I'm just really used to EQ that you can be kind of analytical with, like graphic and parametric EQs. Honestly, I think I dialed in my tone a lot more quickly than if I'd used a graphic or parametric. That was handy in one of the settings where I used it (a church wedding), because I didn't have a lot of time to play around with it before we had to rehearse the music.

 

[bebass]

Yes, the EQ controls are unusual. I've only used a prototype that was lent to me, and I was skeptical at first about the EQ. But I found that I could very quickly come up with a tone that I really liked. I'm just really used to EQ that you can be kind of analytical with, like graphic and parametric EQs. Honestly, I think I dialed in my tone a lot more quickly than if I'd used a graphic or parametric. That was handy in one of the settings where I used it (a church wedding), because I didn't have a lot of time to play around with it before we had to rehearse the music.

I was able to quickly dial out the hollow body bass boomyness and get a sound I liked. These type basses can sometimes be difficult to control and for me to dial it in quickly gave me more confidence in the controls as quite frankly they simply were not what I am used to and I was a bit skeptical.

 

[kasbrey]

Just received mine today. I'm really impressed with the ease that you can find the tone you want and the level of control from just two knobs.

I'm loving the tone. I can't wait to try it with the band next week.

 

[kasbrey]

Since you asked about the Master control, I forgot to mention that one technical aspect is that the Master power control has detents or gradation with each click being a relative small adjustment.

All of the controls have the same gradation actually.

 

[bebass]

All of the controls have the same gradation actually.

Yes, good point. I was referencing his original question and referring to the master control gradation. The filter controls, I would think, would be difficult to define a specific technical value whereas the Master does have specific power value markings. The gain may have specifically referenced values as well but may be less useful in terms of any absolute referenced value. Do you know if the Master control gradation have specific stated power increments? I will find out tomorrow but am curious.

 

[loopee]

Really? I'm taking my bass down there asap.....thanks

Well, I've been trying to contact the store by email and never get an answer, if I was closer I'd go but 2 hrs in rush hour is not a pleasant way to pass the time so I want to know if they have some first. A store that doesn't reply to their emails really bothers me...it's not the first time this store does this. I guess he doesn't use his PC very often but.....he's losing a sale. I'd rather order online and wait 3 weeks

 

[LozzieG74]

I received mine last night, hand delivered by the importer here into Australia no less! He knew I was eager to give one a go as my current amp (Epifani UL902C) is playing up, they only arrived in his place yesterday morning and I was giving it a good play last night. Great service.

So far, I've only plugged it into my Kustom 4x10 Quad but the overall sound quality and warmth wise compared to the UL902C is amazing. I used my active Dingwall Ab2 and passive JV P bass though it and was happy that both sounded natural and as they should!

I'll have more chance to play with it tonight and test my pedal board through the XLR in to see how that goes (which is my planned mode of use). I only have one gig this weekend, so it won;t get much of a test but I have 3 the week after so I'll be able to do some real back to back testing.

At this stage the only annoying thing is having the two separate inputs (a pad switch would be better) although if I use the amp as I intend via the XLR in then this is a bit of a mute point. The mute switch is noisy on mine (IE popping) and the bag, while convenient, needs a bit more protection and storage for the sort of travel that I do so I can see a plastic hard case in the future.