TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Yeah, I don't know why pickup companies still do that other than to cater to those who have to have a "genuine authentic reproduction 58 P pickup." But it was actually the strings back then that was causing it to happen, not the pickup itself.
That's because your fretboard has a curved radius and the pickup surface is flat, so they radius the polepieces. Not needed on a P pickup since it can be adjusted separately for each string.
I am wondering if anybody has ever lowered the raised pole pieces down through one of these pickups to make it into a normal P-Bass pickup? I am thinking that is my next move...
It's not the pickups. It was the strings and the arc of the fingerboard compared to the relative flatness of the pickup. What has changed is that the arc of the fingerboard is less, so there is not as much difference in string height over the polepieces from string-to-string.
Why not? I installed a similar pickup in a friend's bass that has the 9 1/2 inch radius and it sounds killer. The A poles are really not any higher than the D-G poles, and the E poles are inset which helps string-to-string balance.However, that '58 type pickup wouldn't make so much sense if I were to choose the more modern 9-1/2" R for my custom neck. I see a fork in the road regarding my choices.
Why not? I installed a similar pickup in a friend's bass that has the 9 1/2 inch radius and it sounds killer. The A poles are really not any higher than the D-G poles, and the E poles are inset which helps string-to-string balance.
The only thing that a magnetic slug or pole raised above the flatwork does is increase the articulation of the string, given equal distance from the string to the flatwork. This balances out the articulation of the D and G strings, which with less mass has less inertia and articulates differently. This was a big deal when the amplifier had four 10-inch paper cone speakers that couldn't handle that much power, and the low end rolled off sooner from the open back of the classic 4X10 Bassman Amp. The E string, having more mass, will induce a stronger signal to the pickup, so whether by lowering the poles to decrease the sound of the articulation to save the speakers, or lower that side of the pickup generally to reduce the strength of the signal, it just doesn't make that much difference on the E string poles.
Fretboard radius is immaterial to anyone but the player, and so is being a stickler. It's how A strings were made back then is why they raised the polepieces.Thread dredge,
My zone of most experience comes from Fenders/FSOs from the '60s era and modern variations. Now I'm planning a '58 Fender type FSO with top shelf parts therefore doing research and memory refresh about the finer details of Fender '50s era P basses.
(e.g. The hows ands whys of the wood, finishes, dimensions, shapes, profiles, etc and the progression of changes between '51 to '59/'60.)
At the same time I've noticed that even though the new Fender Custom Shop versions of '50s P basses can have 7-1/4" radius fretboards but probably 2/3 or more are being made instead with modern 9-1/2" radius boards. I suspect that's a lot to do with why Fender stopped making or retailing '58 precision pickups a few years ago.
Applying all that, it occurs to me as I decide the radius for my custom neck factors into my pickup selection too. If I choose 7-1/4" R then I could go with whichever post-'58 P pickup--TV, CS, Lollar, Fralin, etc--or if I want to be the 1958-reproduction-stickler, I could go with a '58 type P pickup from Klein.
However, that '58 type pickup wouldn't make so much sense if I were to choose the more modern 9-1/2" R for my custom neck. I see a fork in the road regarding my choices.