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Recipe for a great low-B string?

darwin-bass

Supporting Member
Mar 29, 2013
5,462
9,170
Salem OR
Yea, I know 35" scale. But I don't WANT to play 35" scale. I want great low-B performance from a 34" scale. What things have you found that contribute to a clear, sustained low-B tone?

Here's my recipe.
  • Maple fingerboard.
  • Ash body.
  • Extra rigid neck (steel or graphite bars, thick profile, 1/4 sawn)
BUT - it also tends to produce a bright sounding bass. Hmmm.
 
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Honestly not trying to be a smart-ass here, How about getting a 34" scale bass that is known for its great B string? Sadowsky has a great reputation, as does Xotic, Nordstrand, A-C and many more. Personally, I have a Fender American Deluxe Jazz V with a great sounding B string! Focused, articulate and balanced with the rest of the strings... I always string through the body and use .130 or .135 B strings. Currently and most often, my bass is strung with DR Sunbeams.
 
Honestly not trying to be a smart-ass here, How about getting a 34" scale bass that is known for its great B string?

Yes - I wasn't really asking about building a bass but about knowing what things to look for when purchasing one. My Carvin SB5000 has a very good low-B string but the LB-75 I had years ago was terrible.

Actually, I have 2 Carvins. One is ash/maple the other alder/rosewood. The latter might (not sure) be lacking the graphite bars. The ash/maple bass has an overall brighter / clearer tone and the low B rings more clearly. The alder/rosewood bass is warmer sounding and the low B is good but the warm sound of the instrument tends to make the note a tad less focused.
 
Recipe for a great low-B string?

1 - First and foremost ... a good setup. Flatten out your neck and lower the action.
2 - turn up the mids and not the bass.
3 - A lighter and not a heavier B string. .125 works better than a .135. Fatter strings make it too boomy
4 - 35" scale does very little to improve a low B


I play 5 string Rickenbackers with 33.25" scale and lighter strings and they have great low B strings.

I think the fatter string approach comes from 4 string players who want to get the modern sound without actually having a low B. They use fatter strings and turn up the bass to get the harmonic content and fatter tone when then play a B, C and D notes on their 4 string bass. When you add the low B and still use that approach the low notes become boomy and undefined and don't sit well in the mix.
 
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quality construction all around.

every detail of materials and construction adds up to the whole. a maple fingerboard/ash body bass thats built poorly won't have a great B string.

i've played several 33" basses with excellent B strings. none of them had any woods i can recall in common- one was a cherry body, maple/purpleheart neck.. the other was a 3 piece wenge neck with a mahogany body.. ext.. a good quality instrument will have a good quality sound throughout all registers.
 
I have not had a Warwick or Stingray that didn't do well with Low B. All my basses have Hipshot Xtenders as well, and Low A isn't a problem, either.

Listen to some 311. P-Nut is always low-B'n it. The Urge - Karl Grable uses the low B on his Stingrays just as much.

There are plenty of others. Those are the ones I have experience with.

I like DR Hi Beam medium strings.
 
35" is less a factor than consistent solid construction throught. A stiff stable neck does no good if it slops around where it joins the body. Maple/rosewood/ebony varies enough to not be a consistently predictor. I hate tapered strings, too twangy. Others swear by them.

My 5 is a Lakland Skyline 56-01. 35" scale, solidly built, DR Sunbeams 45/65/85/105/130 non-tapered carefully set up, including pickup adjustmnt. It's one of few 5-strings where the B sounds like it's the same instrument as the others. But most StingRay 5s and whatever G&L 5s I've played (don't recall the models) which are 34" are also balanced with solid B.

John
 

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