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Psycho Bass Guy said:Nope; found it local today. I was hanging out at the vintage shop drooling over a '78 P-Bass and the owner told me he'd let me have it for $75. He said it doesn't work, but it didn't even have the right tubes in it. I've already taken it apart; didn't even bother trying to play through it, and there's no burnt places or bulging caps. I'll put it up on the variac and see what kind of readings I get. Even if it's trashed, it had three fat bottle Sylvania 6CA7's in it (supposed to have 6550's) , and they're worth 60-90 bucks themselves. It's even already got diodes across the rectifier sockets.
BTW, if you're referring to the one in that thread on the Dudepit, it has junk Chinese 6550 outputs. I'm going to put the remains of a sextet of KT88's in mine. I've got four left, one shorted when the amp they were in fell over and the other is on its way to Rickenbackerman.
Psycho Bass Guy said:This is the amp I was referring to. It was/is the subject of a thread on the Dudepit.
Hi Psycho,Psycho Bass Guy said:Yeah, Weber's Copper caps are awesome if you want tube rectifier performance, complete with sag, but for bass, I like a better damped power supply.
RockBobby said:Hi Psycho,
I may have diodes put in. I prolly should have before. Now I have 2 Mullard rec tubes.
Maybe I can ebay them.
BTW, do you have any spare chassis bolts for the Sunn.? I am missing 2.
Thanks. I will try to find out what date mine is. It must be an earlier one with tube recs. I'll let you know if I find a good solution for the bolts.. Bob.......P.S., check out my music page Link RemovedPsycho Bass Guy said:It's funny because I have a pair of Amperex 5AR4's I was all set to at least try in it, but I'm not undoing the diodes since they're already there.
Mullards? Ebay? You'll probably get twice or more what you paid for out of them.
So am I! Are you missing the front or rear bolts? Mine is missing both bolts and one of the threaded inserts in the front. The chassis is signed 2-28-69.